Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-19-2016, 09:40 AM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 8
454 missing on #2 and #4

I have a 1990 454 runs rough, pull #2 plug wire off and runs smooth or pull #4 and it runs smooth. It over heated had a 165 thermostat put in still over heated. Put new water pump and clutch fan took care of the over heating. Temp was on the cold mark test drove it and the temp when to the middle. Guy has had it for 30 days 240 miles away, still not fixed. May be some one on here can help.
__________________

__________________
schulzee is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 06-19-2016, 09:48 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
GraySeal65's Avatar
 
Country Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 574
Quote:
Originally Posted by schulzee View Post
I have a 1990 454 runs rough, pull #2 plug wire off and runs smooth or pull #4 and it runs smooth. It over heated had a 165 thermostat put in still over heated. Put new water pump and clutch fan took care of the over heating. Temp was on the cold mark test drove it and the temp when to the middle. Guy has had it for 30 days 240 miles away, still not fixed. May be some one on here can help.
New cap. rotor, plugs and wires ? Check the firing order maybe 2 and 4 are switched ?
__________________

__________________
1997 Country Coach Intrigue Horizon 36' (The Dinosaur Burner)
GraySeal65 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2016, 09:53 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
OLYLEN's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Olympia, Wa
Posts: 2,337
Sounds like a compression check is needed. Pulling a wire and it gets smooth, it should have a constant miss. If compression passes the a scope of some type to see the electrical system.

LEN
__________________
2004 Clss C 31' Winnebgo
OLYLEN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2016, 11:27 AM   #4
TR4
Senior Member
 
TR4's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, California
Posts: 274
Head gasket between 2 and 4?
__________________
'03 Country Coach Intrigue 36'
Cummins ISL 400
TR4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2016, 11:46 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Dan Osborne's Avatar


 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Glen Allen, Virginia
Posts: 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by TR4 View Post
Head gasket between 2 and 4?
I was thinking the same thing. Especially since there was a recent overheating issue.
__________________
92 Crown Signature, 330 Cummins
Future iRV2 Moderator...vote for Dan Osborne
Dan Osborne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2016, 11:57 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Nine Mile Falls WA / Arizona City AZ
Posts: 524
Does your vehicle have an EGR valve & catalytic converter on it???

Please follow along... vehicles with EGR Valves can have issues with the valve and it leaking... or possibly a problem with the manifold...

If when you pull a plug wire... and the engine seems to run smoother.... here is what is going on... that raw fuel... is leaving the exhaust valve, crossing over the passage in the intake manifold... and flowing through the EGR valve that's bad... and that raw fuel is enriching other cylinders and making the engine run smoother as the mixture is richer....

The EGR valve system is designed to work ONLY when your running down the highway and its a method to displace some of the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber with inert gas.... this lowers temperatures and emissions.... if the valve/mounting gasket/etc is bad... and is off its seat during low speed or idle operation it can make the engine miss...

Remember that at idle and low speed the throttle plate is closed... thus an engine that would normally have 150 psi compression, now with the throttle plate closed will have maybe 75 psi.... and the air/fuel ratio must be exact for good combustion... with the EGR off its seat... this can't happen...

Hope this helps...

BTW - most people have long since pulled the vacuum line off this valve so it can't function... that doesn't mean the valve is bad... one of the simple tests is to put some propane or other chemical on the shaft of the valve... if the chemical runs down the shaft and the engine smooths out... the valve is bad... OR pull the valve off the engine and pour raw chemical (carb cleaner/brake clean) and see if the chemical migrates past the seat...
__________________
jelag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2016, 06:09 PM   #7
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 8
Yes it does.
__________________
schulzee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2016, 06:19 PM   #8
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 8
92TNTRacing He put a new distributor and cap on, talked him Thrus. told him to put new plugs in it. He say the EGR was suite.
__________________
schulzee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2016, 06:23 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Nine Mile Falls WA / Arizona City AZ
Posts: 524
If the EGR is at fault... the only way to know that is to do the tests as I've suggested above... For years I taught mechanics quick tests to verify failures of components... if he hasn't pulled it off and tested it... than he's just "looked at it".... oh it sitting there... and the diaphragm works... so it must be good...

These of course are just my thoughts... and I have been wrong some of the time...
__________________
jelag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2016, 06:40 PM   #10
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 8
I will call him tomorrow, and see what he says. I have get this fixed. Will let you know what he says. Thanks for the help, so hard to do any thing so far away.
__________________
schulzee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2016, 06:54 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Nine Mile Falls WA / Arizona City AZ
Posts: 524
we used to power balance the engine with killing each cylinder, one at a time... if you had a bag EGR valve and you killed that cylinder close to the valve... the engine would speed up and run smoother... the only time in 20 years of doing this that it wasn't an EGR valve was on a new car the owner drove (GM DEALER) and I called it a EGR Valve or intake manifold... the tech found a cracked intake manifold from a bad casting...

Have your tech do the additional test... start the engine and put a vacuum meter on the manifold... slowly raise the engine speed from idle to about 2200 rpm... he should consistent increase in vacuum, what he sees is not important... he might start at say 18" and it goes to 22" or maybe from 20" to 25", you get the picture... if as he raises the RPM and the vacuum stays the same or slightly increases have him look for a plugged up catalytic converter.. as the volume of air increases through the engine.... (throttle plate is open and the engine is reving higher) the efficiency increases and the vacuum should go higher.. if it doesn't, there is a good chance the catalytic converter is plugged... there are a lot of early RV's where the chassis builder didn't PLAN for the added volume of air with a MH chassis or trailer tow package... and the converter fails and plugs the exhaust.... THAN the temperatures are higher at the EGR valve and some of these engines have issues with heating.. as the engine can't exhaust the heat....

Geez I hope all this helps and make some sense to you... there are a lot of tech's who have gotten way past the basics with all the computer related test systems today...
__________________
jelag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2016, 07:08 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Tha_Rooster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 4,516
I had a 1994 454 mech. cleaned radiators, changed fan clutch ended up being a cracked exhaust manifold melting the temp sending unit.
__________________
2007 Fleetwood Revolution LE 40V
Tha_Rooster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2016, 07:52 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
Tiffin Owners Club
Appalachian Campers
Mid Atlantic Campers
Coastal Campers
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,413
Agree with the potential blown head gasket, between the #2 and #4 cylinders. Do a cylinder pressure test.
__________________
DaveB, Raleigh, NC
2015 Tiffin RED 33AA, w/Honda CRV
VMSpc, Magnum BMK/ARC50
Kiawah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2016, 08:20 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
lonfu's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Kingman Az
Posts: 632
Quote:
Originally Posted by jelag View Post
Does your vehicle have an EGR valve & catalytic converter on it???

Please follow along... vehicles with EGR Valves can have issues with the valve and it leaking... or possibly a problem with the manifold...

If when you pull a plug wire... and the engine seems to run smoother.... here is what is going on... that raw fuel... is leaving the exhaust valve, crossing over the passage in the intake manifold... and flowing through the EGR valve that's bad... and that raw fuel is enriching other cylinders and making the engine run smoother as the mixture is richer....

The EGR valve system is designed to work ONLY when your running down the highway and its a method to displace some of the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber with inert gas.... this lowers temperatures and emissions.... if the valve/mounting gasket/etc is bad... and is off its seat during low speed or idle operation it can make the engine miss...

Remember that at idle and low speed the throttle plate is closed... thus an engine that would normally have 150 psi compression, now with the throttle plate closed will have maybe 75 psi.... and the air/fuel ratio must be exact for good combustion... with the EGR off its seat... this can't happen...

Hope this helps...

BTW - most people have long since pulled the vacuum line off this valve so it can't function... that doesn't mean the valve is bad... one of the simple tests is to put some propane or other chemical on the shaft of the valve... if the chemical runs down the shaft and the engine smooths out... the valve is bad... OR pull the valve off the engine and pour raw chemical (carb cleaner/brake clean) and see if the chemical migrates past the seat...
I like to start at the beginning. For me it saves time. 1. compression test 2. leak down test between #2 and #4. 3. Check plug wire order 4. If new plugs/cap/wires (no cross fire) then EGR valve(replace). 5. Propane gas intake manifold test 6. check distributor timing to cylinder #1(timing chain?) 7. Coil 8. exhaust manifold test(shop vac exhaust to tail pipe with check with soap bubbles) 9. More electrical tests if all of above are ok
__________________

__________________
May your black water hose never break!
lonfu is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
454



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
454 idle up and down and stalls Daylack Fleetwood Products Owner's Forum 2 06-08-2012 09:07 PM
83 Pace Arrow 454 alternator and water pump belt problem solutions kartvines Fleetwood Products Owner's Forum 17 12-15-2011 03:23 PM
Fuse circuits and 12 volt systems test on 83 Pace Arrow Chevy P30 with 454 kartvines Fleetwood Products Owner's Forum 6 01-10-2011 10:37 AM
Tuning and timing a 454 Chevy AeroAtom MH-General Discussions & Problems 11 01-07-2008 07:41 PM
Missing Manual Found (and I didn't know it was missing JavaJelly Newmar Owner's Forum 5 12-21-2006 04:31 AM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.