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Old 06-21-2016, 06:29 PM   #29
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Ok thanks Jim, Let me ask the same question regarding the EMS system which I agree is the best choice. Does it make a difference if it is put on the coach end of the power cord or the power end of the cord?
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Old 06-21-2016, 06:34 PM   #30
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WyoFree - 2 types of the Progressive Industries Surge Protectors that i know of - portable and built-in. The portable simply plugs into the power tower and the built-in is permanently mounted between the the inbound power and the coach power.

The main issue with the portable is leaving a $250 appliance sitting outside. There are some boxes to secure it but I just went with the built-in.

Not familiar with the EMS that Jim mentioned but I like to know more if someone has a good link.
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Old 06-21-2016, 06:39 PM   #31
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Hi BigBen, That's just what I was thinking about. Not wild about having a $400.00 item sitting by the power tower where it can be, shall we say, borrowed. Much rather have it in the bay!

Another benefit about it being in the bay is you wouldn't forget to use it!
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Old 06-21-2016, 07:59 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by WyoFree View Post
Hi BigBen, That's just what I was thinking about. Not wild about having a $400.00 item sitting by the power tower where it can be, shall we say, borrowed. Much rather have it in the bay!

Another benefit about it being in the bay is you wouldn't forget to use it!

Ok, let me be clear about what I have, use and recommend. It's the Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C, which is hard wired inside my electrical bay of my Newmar Canyon Star. Mine is wired before the transfer switch & does not provide protection should any issues arise with my Onan auxiliary power unit (APU). The chance that my APU hiccuping is far less than a campground's electrical power pedestal. In retrospect, I probably would be better served to have had it wired so that it would give protection from both external (campground) & APU (generator) electrical sources. At the time, just didn't think of it. Might have it changed sometime.

Hope this helps with your decision, but any protection (surge guard or EMS) is better than none.


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Old 06-21-2016, 08:36 PM   #33
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Worth posting again, comparison chart of PI's offerings

Progressive Industries RV Surge and Electrical Protection industry lea
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Old 06-22-2016, 05:57 AM   #34
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WyoFree - I've seen folks with surge protector locked up in a box that is secured. But way more than I wanted to fool with during setup and take down. Installing it in line, the surge protector is always there with no extra steps. And I'll bet installation cost wouldn't be much more that the box to secure the external surge protector.

Jim makes a great point about installation point.
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Old 06-22-2016, 06:40 AM   #35
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These Power/Pedestal Testers are great for people who want to quickly test the pedestal BEFORE spending the time and energy backing or pulling into the site and plugging into the power only to find out that there is a problem with the pedestal and will have to move to another site.

There are professionally made testers like the one referenced in the first post and many homemade versions that you can build yourself.

I made one for myself and have made many for people who are electrically challenged or don't want to spend the time and money to put one together.

BTW, one feature that the Power Pal does NOT have is a check for a Fake 50 Amp Pedestal.

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Old 06-22-2016, 07:27 AM   #36
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Jim, Are you saying you can plug the surge protector into the coach end and/or the power hookup end?
Not exactly. Mine is wired into the coach so it isn't a plugin at all. Permanently connected. I chose to put it after the transfer switch so that if there is a problem with the transfer switch I am protected. I am also protected from any issues with the generator.

Others experience may vary, but I remember another thread where someone quoted the tech who installed his that they didn't put them after the switch because they had too many problems with them tripping off line from the generator. Seems to me, they should fix the generator rather than not have the coach protected.

This is one of those "insurance" questions. I've had RVs without this and taken the chance. I finally decided it was worth the cost for the protection. They aren't hard to install, but only if you understand how to do electrical wiring. I had to move the TV connection box about 6 inches to make room for it.

(Sorry for the picture rotation. It is mounted vertically.)
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Old 06-22-2016, 08:21 AM   #37
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I chose to put it after the transfer switch so that if there is a problem with the transfer switch I am protected. I am also protected from any issues with the generator.
Where you are NOT protected is from that IOTA Transfer switch which has had multiple recalls plus multiple fires which have caused considerable amount of damage plus total loss of coaches.

Your coach was built around the time that Monaco was going under - out of business. Then Navistar took them over and they finally issued a recall to replace the IOTA Transfer Switches in many earlier coaches.

NHTSA Recall Notice

Even though your coach is not part of the Navistar recall that is because they had no financial possibility or liability to repair any of the older coaches made by Monaco.

If it were me I would get rid of that ASAP and replace it with an ESCO brand transfer switch. I have the ESCO Lyght LPTBRD which uses 12 VDC coils for the contactors versus the 120 VAC coils which tend to hum a lot.

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Old 06-22-2016, 12:56 PM   #38
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Where you are NOT protected is from that IOTA Transfer switch which has had multiple recalls plus multiple fires which have caused considerable amount of damage plus total loss of coaches.



Your coach was built around the time that Monaco was going under - out of business. Then Navistar took them over and they finally issued a recall to replace the IOTA Transfer Switches in many earlier coaches.



NHTSA Recall Notice



Even though your coach is not part of the Navistar recall that is because they had no financial possibility or liability to repair any of the older coaches made by Monaco.



If it were me I would get rid of that ASAP and replace it with an ESCO brand transfer switch. I have the ESCO Lyght LPTBRD which uses 12 VDC coils for the contactors versus the 120 VAC coils which tend to hum a lot.



Dr4Film ----- Richard

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Don't let this happen to you. My IOTA. Aluminum terminals + Copper wiring all mounted to a plastic frame = Problem just waiting
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