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Old 10-02-2015, 08:27 AM   #29
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Many RVs with large inverters will not work with a GFI breaker. Ours won't. I really don't know why, but it's pretty common.

I don't think I've ever seen a GFI breaker in an RV Park. At least for the 50amp and 30amp plugs. The 15/20 plug is almost always GFI.
Do not plug a refrigerator or freezer into a GFIC outlet. At least that is what an electrician told my son after toasting the outlet and loosing a freezer full of meat.
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Old 10-02-2015, 08:37 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingDiver View Post
Many RVs with large inverters will not work with a GFI breaker. Ours won't. I really don't know why, but it's pretty common.

I don't think I've ever seen a GFI breaker in an RV Park. At least for the 50amp and 30amp plugs. The 15/20 plug is almost always GFI.
I agree. I had a 50 amp service installed last year for my rv. I had a 50 amp GFCI breaker installed, and when we came in off the road, it would trip the breaker. My Progressive EMS reported all circuits were good and passed power to the coach. The breaker would trip immediately. Changed out the GFCI breaker for a standard 50 amp breaker and no problems since.
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Old 10-02-2015, 10:09 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by znt1186 View Post
I agree. I had a 50 amp service installed last year for my rv. I had a 50 amp GFCI breaker installed, and when we came in off the road, it would trip the breaker. My Progressive EMS reported all circuits were good and passed power to the coach. The breaker would trip immediately. Changed out the GFCI breaker for a standard 50 amp breaker and no problems since.
I asked the same question when the suggestion was made for the RV circuit have the 50 amp GFI. My electrician said it was not required by code for a RV circuit and said the RV had it's own GFI circuits and I have never seen one at any campground on the 50 amp circuit.
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Old 10-02-2015, 10:20 AM   #32
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Didn't see it mentioned - Plug into any outlet you use with a surge protector. Progressive Industries RV Surge and Electrical Protection industry lea
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Old 10-02-2015, 11:15 AM   #33
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Regardless if the neutral and ground are swapped will make no consequence to your trailer function. If the neutral and ground aren't bonded together in the breaker box,
Gee. I said that.. Almost.. You overlooked one fact.
The code allows the safety ground to be a smaller wire than the Legs and Neutral.. Example 10Ga Hot wires and neutral and 12ga Ground..

Of course if the box has two different size wires then it's simple, the smaller one goes to the green screw.

But if the wires on white and green are the same size.. What you said full agreement, said the same up-thread. Thank you for the support.
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Old 10-02-2015, 11:34 AM   #34
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If I remember correctly on a 50A 120/240 circuit the markings and wire sizes should be as follows.

Hot 1 = #6 Black
Hot 2 = #6 Red
Neutral = #6 White
Ground = #10 Green or bare wire

Notes:
I don't believe code required that Hot 2 is required to be Red or a different color from Hot 1 for a single phase circuit but it's good practice. Ground can be larger then #10 but you gain nothing.

If run length is longer than 50' I would raise the wire gauge by 1 standard size so a 50A circuit would then use #4 and #8 instead of #6 & #10.
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Old 10-03-2015, 07:00 AM   #35
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Isn't there a county inspector coming out to inspect the work? When we had our 50 amp home service put in, the electrician had to get a permit, do the work and then wait for the inspection.
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Old 10-03-2015, 07:31 AM   #36
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Isn't there a county inspector coming out to inspect the work? When we had our 50 amp home service put in, the electrician had to get a permit, do the work and then wait for the inspection.
Smart lady here...
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Old 10-03-2015, 07:37 AM   #37
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Bottom line here, no color coding does not meet code.
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Old 10-03-2015, 07:52 AM   #38
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I didn't read all the replies, but I would invest in this.

And that way you check everytime you plug into any place...

Once an 'electrician' told me there was something wrong with my PI ems when it would let power through to my coach.....

We packed up and left feeling sorry for the next guy that fried his rv :(
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Old 10-03-2015, 09:08 AM   #39
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FWIW it looks like you have people mixing the color code for flex cord with the marking requirements for conduit runs. Flexible cords have color coded or otherwise marked conductors like the ridge on zip cord 2 wire. Conduit has marking requirements where the cable is accessed but does not care what is in the pipe. The issue is using the code section appropriate for the wiring method.
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Old 10-03-2015, 10:08 AM   #40
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The color designations are there so you don't use the WRONG color and create a dangerous situation.

All Line conductors being black is perfectly acceptable.
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Old 10-03-2015, 10:50 AM   #41
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The color designations are there so you don't use the WRONG color and create a dangerous situation.

All Line conductors being black is perfectly acceptable.
CCH, black is acceptable, but they need to be color taped or numbered. According to the original post, nothing was said about wires be marked, by color or number.
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Old 10-03-2015, 11:24 AM   #42
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The color designations are there so you don't use the WRONG color and create a dangerous situation.

All Line conductors being black is perfectly acceptable.
As I said before there is a minimum level of color coding that is required by code when running through conduits.

Ground MUST be either green or bare copper. Neutral MUST be white. The hots don't have to be coded however they CANNOT be green or white.

Hots are normally coded in 3 phase 240VAC circuit but it's not always done, however it's good practice to do so. If the hots get switched motors will run in reverse.

On single phase 120/240VAC circuit there isn't a compelling reason or requirement to code the hots since if they are reversed everything still works normally. It's still good practice to do so.

You can always come up with exceptions to this but for a simple single 120/240VAC conduit run the above works fine.

The problem in this installation is that they connected what should have been the Neutral of a 120VAC 30A receptacle to the second Hot in the panel. This was a MAJOR screw up and as we can see a costly one.
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