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Old 10-03-2015, 11:32 AM   #43
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As I said before there is a minimum level of color coding that is required by code when running through conduits.

Ground MUST be either green or bare copper. Neutral MUST be white. The hots don't have to be coded however they CANNOT be green or white.

Hots are normally coded in 3 phase 240VAC circuit but it's not always done, however it's good practice to do so. If the hots get switched motors will run in reverse.

On single phase 120/240VAC circuit there isn't a compelling reason or requirement to code the hots since if they are reversed everything still works normally. It's still good practice to do so.

You can always come up with exceptions to this but for a simple single 120/240VAC conduit run the above works fine.

The problem in this installation is that they connected what should have been the Neutral of a 120VAC 30A receptacle to the second Hot in the panel. This was a MAJOR screw up and as we can see a costly one.
Hopefully this will put an end to this topic......
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Old 10-03-2015, 11:43 AM   #44
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Who's installing your 50A service? The wires should be as described in other replies. If not, get another installer or do it yourself, as I did. Permit cost slightly more than the parts, as I was able to put RV outlet just below the circuit panel in a utility service entrance cabinet at the front of the garage.
Good luck.
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Old 10-03-2015, 12:51 PM   #45
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You know quite frankly who cares what color the wires or the markings are. The whole purpose behind marking wires is to identify the wire. As long as the wire is in the right place and the right size the rest really does not matter.

Yes it is convention for a ground to be green and a neutral white. I know there are going to be people on here that will say code says this or that. Quite frankly I never trust anyone to hook anything up right. As long as the wires are marked I can go back to the box and see what color is hooked up to what. IF they put different colors on each end of the same cable then there is a problem. The rest really is not that important.
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Old 10-03-2015, 06:11 PM   #46
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Hopefully this will put an end to this topic......
Agreed, the only thing I'd like to know, and only if the OP wants to post it, is does he get compensated for his loss and gets his coach up and running again.

Good luck to the OP.
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Old 10-04-2015, 04:52 AM   #47
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I think was the original poster. I had my licensed general contractor come over and do my outlet.
Its worked flawless from day one. That's what happens when you hire competent people. I have no idea why this thread had to be hijacked so bad. Good thing I didn't ask what time it is!
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Old 10-04-2015, 08:33 AM   #48
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Several posts have been removed for personal attacks, rudeness, etc., all not permitted by our rules.

Let's post in a collegial manner.

Thanks!
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Old 10-04-2015, 10:26 AM   #49
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Have not read all of the posts...Just a few then went back to op.

First assuming...

States wired back to main panel that it is a normal standard panel and is truly main panel and not a sub-panel.

All 4 wires same size and color and correct size for application.

And 120 vac measured each hot to neutral and 240 vac hot to hot.

The install does not meet code due to no marking on cables and by disconnecting just one at either end one could determine which one is which and with a voltmeter and extension cord to extend a 120 outlet for confirming which phase or main they could confirm the 2 hots.

But given the connection is to the main panel and by being the main panel the neutral and safety ground busses ate connected together it does not matter for function as they both are connected to same place.

Given the mh is a sub panel then it could make a difference so the perfectionist should follow up to have the wires identified and if the op paid a provider to install them the provider should come out and do so at zero cost.

Total time should be less than 30 minutes or so.

BTW we installed a 100 amp feed to our shop using yard sale found wire of correct size and type still new on rool, 4 wires all black but identified by colored tape at each end.

Even placed black tape on black wire to remove doubt.

Pulled 60 amp circuit from there to shop sub with higher rated wire also all black as it was about 10 bucks more to get a 500 ft roll of one wire than 4 X 50 ft of seperate colors and we have plenty left for welder circuits.

If contractors have rolls of each color it does not matter but a supplier who has minimal stock to be cost effective may buy in large quantities of size and color code as used.

The pro should have a roll of green for ground use but often does not.
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Old 10-04-2015, 12:14 PM   #50
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I find it quite amazing how this original post has taken a 180.
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Old 10-04-2015, 08:57 PM   #51
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Ok..so the box is installed. Surge guard gave all ok with 3 green lights. Hots checked out ok by voltmeter. BUT he drove a new ground rod below the box and ran ground to there instead of back to the main panel. Yes it is NOT a sub panel. Does that make any difference?
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Old 10-04-2015, 11:22 PM   #52
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Ok..so the box is installed. Surge guard gave all ok with 3 green lights. Hots checked out ok by voltmeter. BUT he drove a new ground rod below the box and ran ground to there instead of back to the main panel. Yes it is NOT a sub panel. Does that make any difference?
If you install a pedestal then a ground rod must be driven next to it and the ground should be connected to the rod. The neutral should NOT be connected to the ground inside the pedestal.

I believe if you have a the RV panel attached to the side of your house or in your RV garage I don't believe this is required.

I'm still reading the NEC rules on this but I'd say the electrician did it correctly.
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Old 10-04-2015, 11:38 PM   #53
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One neutral connection point. Multiple ground points are ok, sometimes required (as in a sub-panel in a separate building).
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:06 AM   #54
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Many RVs with large inverters will not work with a GFI breaker. Ours won't. I really don't know why, but it's pretty common.

I don't think I've ever seen a GFI breaker in an RV Park. At least for the 50amp and 30amp plugs. The 15/20 plug is almost always GFI.
A GFCI would work on a 30A service, but it won't on a 50A service. The return current on the neutral must equal the current coming from the hot. On a 50A service, two hot legs share a neutral and it carries the difference in the two currents coming from the two hot legs. It would never work.
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:34 AM   #55
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A GFCI would work on a 30A service, but it won't on a 50A service. The return current on the neutral must equal the current coming from the hot. On a 50A service, two hot legs share a neutral and it carries the difference in the two currents coming from the two hot legs. It would never work.
They why do they make breakers for that?

Square D Homeline 50 Amp Two-Pole GFCI Circuit Breaker-HOM250GFICP - The Home Depot
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:38 AM   #56
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I spoke without thinking of those. Please disregard. I wasn't quite awake yet.
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