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10-05-2015, 07:33 AM
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#57
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 4,654
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Is there a meter there at that pedestal?
No?
Then it is treated as sub-panel or outlet.
Function of safety ground is to allow fault current to ground to pull the breaker thus the need for low resistance path back to where breaker.
Rod into dirt is not that path.
Wire to breaker is while a SECONDARY rod is often placed at these for extra measure.
Local inspector is proper authority here.
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Tony & Lori
1989 Country Coach Savannah SE
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10-05-2015, 07:52 AM
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#58
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Ellijay, Georgia
Posts: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingDiver
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I believe this type of breaker would be for something like a hot tub.
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10-05-2015, 08:51 AM
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#59
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Somewhere....
Posts: 4,054
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulldog620
I believe this type of breaker would be for something like a hot tub.
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Doesn't matter what it's for. It's a 240V 50amp GFCI circuit.
__________________
2008 King Aire 4562, Spartan K3(GT) w/ Cummins ISX 600
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 5.7L V8 Hemi w/ Blue Ox Aventa LX Tow Bar and baseplate, SMI Air Force One brake
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10-05-2015, 10:45 AM
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#60
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Merritt, BC
Posts: 3,753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingDiver
Doesn't matter what it's for. It's a 240V 50amp GFCI circuit.
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Correct but it shouldn't be used for a motor home connection as it has its own GFCI protection.
__________________
Bob, Sherron & Kinsey (RIP 2013-2022)
2017 Tiffin Phaeton 40QBH
2014 Jeep Cherokee Limited
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10-05-2015, 02:33 PM
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#61
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Fayetteville, GA
Posts: 408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maneddi
Ok..so the box is installed. Surge guard gave all ok with 3 green lights. Hots checked out ok by voltmeter. BUT he drove a new ground rod below the box and ran ground to there instead of back to the main panel. Yes it is NOT a sub panel. Does that make any difference?
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My pedestal is setup like yours with the grounding rod next to the box. Since the house is old and only had the 2 hot lines and neutral (like the older dryer outlets) I had to bond ground and neutral at the pedestal because I had no way to run ground back to the panel. Works fine and the coach's power control panel is happy. Without this bonding power to the coach cuts off in about 30 minutes after it can't see the bonding.
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2013 HR 43DFT RR10R
All Electric FWS-Tag FMCA 451687
2017 Ford F150 4X4 Toad
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10-05-2015, 02:46 PM
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#62
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ottawa Ontario Canada
Posts: 1,260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdawgs
My pedestal is setup like yours with the grounding rod next to the box. Since the house is old and only had the 2 hot lines and neutral (like the older dryer outlets) I had to bond ground and neutral at the pedestal because I had no way to run ground back to the panel. Works fine and the coach's power control panel is happy. Without this bonding power to the coach cuts off in about 30 minutes after it can't see the bonding.
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Curious, where is the 'bonding' detector? Has to be in the transfer switch?
I replaced the connector on the end of my 50A cord not long ago as the White neutral was N/C. Nothing damaged...
Oh, I know they have that feature built-in a Surge Protector, just didn't know about anything in the coach that would do it.
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DanielB
Looking for small Class C, sold Newmar MADP
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10-05-2015, 05:16 PM
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#63
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Fayetteville, GA
Posts: 408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HHIDan
Curious, where is the 'bonding' detector? Has to be in the transfer switch?
I replaced the connector on the end of my 50A cord not long ago as the White neutral was N/C. Nothing damaged...
Oh, I know they have that feature built-in a Surge Protector, just didn't know about anything in the coach that would do it.
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On my power control panel it lets me know if both hot legs, neutral and ground are OK. On the lower line in the display the panel illustrates whether the bonding is good by displaying Neutral=Ground. I've been in situations where this was not the case. I had power but only for about 30 minutes. After the coach could not detect the bond it shut power off from the pedestal. I cranked the generator and everything was fine. I then moved to another site that was correct.
__________________
2013 HR 43DFT RR10R
All Electric FWS-Tag FMCA 451687
2017 Ford F150 4X4 Toad
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10-06-2015, 06:01 AM
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#64
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Ellijay, Georgia
Posts: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobGed
Correct but it shouldn't be used for a motor home connection as it has its own GFCI protection.
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Thanks Bob, that's what I've been saying all along. Very easy to trip the 50 amp GFCI on the post, in fact I've never seen a 50 amp GFCI in any campground.
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10-06-2015, 06:21 AM
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#65
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 8,055
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FWIW in the motor home ground and neutral are not connected together when on shore power. They do connect at the pedestal. That makes it easy to see that the ground and neutral connection is made when one plugs in. It cannot tell if the ground is really connected to ground unless you also stick a probe in the soil. ;-)
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10-12-2015, 09:07 AM
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#66
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 68
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I have a GFI question. When stored at my house, I have the MH plugged into a GFI 15 amp outlet to keep batteries charged and to cool the RV refrigerator before starting off on a trip. Is that OK?
__________________
Celerator (Joe)
'09 Fleetwood Southwind 32VS
Victoria, BC Canada
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10-12-2015, 09:22 AM
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#67
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: DeLand, Florida
Posts: 464
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Sure is. I have mine plugged in all of the time when at home. I use a 20 amp outlet but a 15 is adequate for what you are using it for.
__________________
The only thing that always works on a RV is it’s Owner…
2012 Thor Outlaw
2014 Harley Limited
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10-12-2015, 02:15 PM
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#68
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 68
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Thanks cobra.
__________________
Celerator (Joe)
'09 Fleetwood Southwind 32VS
Victoria, BC Canada
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