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05-29-2012, 08:26 AM
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#1
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Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 90
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50 amp split to 2 30 amp cord?
I am at a seasonal for the year. We have a residential fridge, lots of lights and outdoor electrical items. I only have a 30 amp rig, so figured there must be a pigtail that splits the 50amp outlet into 2 30 amp outlets, allowing me a few less power strips. I searched, but haven't found anything. Guess I could make one, but I like the easy way
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Steve Cifra
2014 Keystone Sprinter Copper Canyon 324FWBHS
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05-29-2012, 08:33 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Port Charlotte, FL
Posts: 728
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Try ProgressiveIndustries. Look at Their "Cheater Box" .
The Cheater Box plugs into and 30amp and a 20amp plug, or two 30amp plugs on separate circuits to give user a 50amp output.
Will not operate on a GFCI circuit.
Designed for outdoor use. Maybe this will work for you. ed
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05-29-2012, 08:38 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Ford Super Duty Owner Carolina Campers
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,266
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I think he's wanting to plug into a single 50A service and get two 110V outlets. Its certainly do-able, but you'd have two 50A 110V outlets, so you'd have to be careful not to overload them or run the risk of melting your 20A max drop cords. The breaker won't protect you.
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2002 National Dolphin LX 6356
Workhorse W-22 chassis
Don't believe everything you think.
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05-29-2012, 08:42 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Spokane Valley, Wa
Posts: 1,987
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Unless you are well up on RV electrical wiring things could get ugly fast.
Your coach is not wired to split the load between two 180 degree different
110 volt inputs.
One could run any outside items off the common 20 amp connection provided
at the site and run the rig off the 30 amp connection.
As a point of interest I have started seeing rules posted at CG's that prohibit using
more than one connection to the shore power so you may need to check.
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Art
1999 Trade Winds 7371 Cat 3126B w/current upgrades
1990 D 250 Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo
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05-29-2012, 11:01 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 3,198
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Confusing me....
If you're rig is a 30 amp, what else is there to do?
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05-29-2012, 11:44 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Golden Village Palms, CA
Posts: 1,988
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I think this is the cable you're looking for
Conntek 50A to 30A (x2) RV Camp Power Y Adapter 14961 | eBay
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramblin
you'd have two 50A 110V outlets, so you'd have to be careful not to overload them or run the risk of melting your 20A max drop cords. The breaker won't protect you.
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I don't think there would be any concerns using a a setup like this, but you would need to run 30A extension cords with the adapter.
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John
'98 Gulf Stream Sunsport 325, 7.5L Banks Power Pack, Koni FSD's, Air Bags, ReadyBrute Elite,
2000 Honda Accord
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05-29-2012, 11:59 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Ford Super Duty Owner Carolina Campers
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wanabee FTer
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I doubt that adapter does anything to 'change' the hot legs of the 50A service to 30A. What you have there is two 30A TT style connectors, each with 50A available. So, it would be entirely possible to melt a 30A extension cord before the breaker popped by loading it with, for instance, 45A worth of festive awning lights. (That would be a REALLY festive awning, until the cord melted)
__________________
2002 National Dolphin LX 6356
Workhorse W-22 chassis
Don't believe everything you think.
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05-29-2012, 12:04 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Golden Village Palms, CA
Posts: 1,988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramblin
(That would be a REALLY festive awning, until the cord melted)
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Oh well, no more block parties...
I see what you are saying, but man... I have a hard time overloading one 30 amp circuit.
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John
'98 Gulf Stream Sunsport 325, 7.5L Banks Power Pack, Koni FSD's, Air Bags, ReadyBrute Elite,
2000 Honda Accord
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05-29-2012, 12:19 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Ford Super Duty Owner Carolina Campers
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wanabee FTer
Oh well, no more block parties...
I see what you are saying, but man... I have a hard time overloading one 30 amp circuit.
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I agree, however, the OP did say he runs "...lots of lights and outdoor electrical items...". He'd have a difficult time loading up more than 30A worth of outside stuff. But without knowing what outdoor electrical items he's talking about, the warning seems well placed.
Of course, the coach's breakers would protect it from getting over 30A on the other leg, so no problem there.
__________________
2002 National Dolphin LX 6356
Workhorse W-22 chassis
Don't believe everything you think.
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05-29-2012, 12:39 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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Are you trying to plug a 50 amp RV into two 30 amp outelts or split a 50 amp outlet into two 30 amp outlets.
First case, the cheater box mentioned above works IF and only if all of the park outlets you are plugging into are NOT GFCI protected.. Of the parks I have visited.... One actually encourages you to use the cheater boxes in the hot months (Which are off months for the park) they only park folks on alternate sites so you can use one, they sell them.
TWO, if you park on selected sites you can use them (but on one of those even some of the 30 amp sockets are GFCI and they will nto work with GFCI outlets)
In the second case (Splitting a single 50 into multiple 30 outlets)
I know of no one who makes such an adapter,, My uggesiton is to home brew Very easy to do.
To do it right you need 4 (well six) things
one 50 amp MALE pigtail (Any RV dealer should be able to provide)
TWO 30 amp FEMALE pigails (Same source)
A "Sub panel" 120/240 volt type (Any electrical supply, many hardwares, try Lowes, Home Depot, Mennards, etc) and 2 30 amp breakers (Same source)
To co it cheap and more dangerous replace the Sub panel and breakers with a J box, I do not recommend this, same source though.
Wire as follows
Green wire from all pigtalis to the Ground bus in the Sub panel box (Or common connect in a J box)
White to the Neutral bus (or common connect.
NOTE: Ground an Neutral busses in the sub panel should be isloated ground bus is connected to the box itself, neutral isolated)
Black and Red from the 50 amp to the two hot bus bars in the sub panel
Black from the 30 amp pigtails to one 30 amp breaker, from the other to the other 30 amp
(If using a J-box one black 30 amp lead goes to black 50, one to red 50 and again I state I do not recommend doing it this way).
And that is it.
If using the sub panel you might wish to also get a pair fo 20 amp breakers (or you can get a pair of 20/30 amp "Double" breakers) and install a pair of 20 15/20 amp (Standard household, either GFCI or not you choice but I"d go with GFCI) outelts on either side of the sub panel. Just for fun. LIke wise one outlet to each leg.
If you wish I can draw out a connection diagram and post it.
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Home is where I park it!
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05-29-2012, 12:45 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Ford Super Duty Owner Carolina Campers
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm
In the second case (Splitting a single 50 into multiple 30 outlets)
I know of no one who makes such an adapter,, My uggesiton is to home brew Very easy to do.
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John linked a prefab one above.
__________________
2002 National Dolphin LX 6356
Workhorse W-22 chassis
Don't believe everything you think.
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05-29-2012, 02:58 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 95
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Using the Conntek 50A to 30A (x2) RV Camp Power Y Adapter 14961 or something like it is risky. There would be 50 Amp overload protection from the plug to the RV main breaker. Hope your cord is in good condition.
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2005 HR Scepter 38PDQ
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05-30-2012, 07:11 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Ford Super Duty Owner Carolina Campers
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skibum61
Using the Conntek 50A to 30A (x2) RV Camp Power Y Adapter 14961 or something like it is risky. There would be 50 Amp overload protection from the plug to the RV main breaker. Hope your cord is in good condition.
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The 30A main breaker in the RV will pop before the cord sees anything in excess of 30A. My concern is the OTHER side of the Y, where the OP presumably will plug in an extension cord for all his outside electrical items. He has no breaker protection there below 50A and could overload and melt the cord.
__________________
2002 National Dolphin LX 6356
Workhorse W-22 chassis
Don't believe everything you think.
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05-30-2012, 10:51 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wanabee FTer
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You are right.. However recall I said I did not recommend just using a "J-BOX" (junction box) I recommended using a sub panel with 30 amp breakers. (ANd possibly adding in 20 amp outlets also with breakers)
That's the difference between doing it right (Sub box w/proper breakers) and doing it Cheap (The above adapter)_
But that said thanks, NO I know they do make one.
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Home is where I park it!
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