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Old 06-15-2013, 09:28 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Da-Log View Post

I wish I understood even a fraction of what you guys are talking about with electricity. It makes me uneasy about buying my first RV because I am afraid that I'll burn the damn thing up somehow.
Example: Many years ago my friend and I were trying to wire a snow mobile trailer to his car. Every time we stepped on the brakes one of the turn signals would light up. When we put on the turn signal the back up lights would come on. I called my Uncle who was a B-52 Avionics Maintenance man and asked him what the problem was.
He told me "you have no potential". I answered back that I have plenty of potential but none of it is in electricity. After several minutes of laughing he came over to my house and fixed our problem.
Am I over-thinking all this electrical stuff or do I really need to understand it better before buying an RV and where would a 58 year old man learn about electricity?
The ONLY thing you need to know regarding the electricity that comes from the RV Pedestal is that it can do a LOT of damage to your RV if you are NOT protected with a Progressive Industries EMS Unit. Either using the 50 AMP HW-50C for 50 amp coaches or the HW-30C for 30 amp coaches, although the 50 amp unit will also work on any 30 amp coach by using a 50-30 dogbone.

Buy yourself one of those FIRST and then you won't have to worry about POOR electricity messing up your RV.

EMS-HW50C

Here is another great Internet site to learn everything about RV electric.

http://www.myrv.us/electric/

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:37 PM   #16
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Can I use my Camco cheater as a 30 to 50 amp plug
So if I'm in a campground with only 30 amps and a gfci on the 20amp, is the 30 amp leg wired the same as a standard 30 to 50 amp
I don't believe you can do that. It's my understanding that the cheater takes the 30A feed and puts it on one leg of the 50A plug and takes the 20A feed and puts it on the other. If you don't have both sides live you will, in essence, only be powering one "side" of your coach.

I discovered that my Surgeguard wouldn't even let me try this; it shows a fault anytime it shows power on only one leg of the 50A.
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Old 06-16-2013, 02:00 AM   #17
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I was thinking a 30 amp was say L1 anyway and if wired correctly on the otherside of the pedestal was L2
So 30 amp is L1, neutral, and earth but then is the 20 amp circuit on my side of the pedestal L2, neutral and earth.
So if the transfer switch sees L1 only does it split it across L1 and L2 at the coach.
I know if I use my cheater it sees L1 and L2 as if they are separate feeds.
I understand how it works here in Australia ( we use single phase 240v and 3 phase 415v)
And we wire things differently here also
Ill wait fir the experts to chime in
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:25 AM   #18
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I think it's easier and safer to just live in the "what's available" world. Most class A's have a generator if you have to run both AC's, microwave/convection, reffer, everylight and every outlet. However I have found it's just a lot easier to limit your power demand. You will find that if you have a park that's designed for 30 amp service for all the sites and all of a sudden everyone is using these systems it will overload the parks system and will drop the voltage all around the park causing a bunch of other problems. So just live with 1 AC running at a time and shut some doors inside the coach and manage your power consumption.
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Old 06-16-2013, 09:33 AM   #19
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So if the transfer switch sees L1 only does it split it across L1 and L2 at the coach.
No, the transfer switch just transfers input sources (shore power vs generator). There is no cross-switching of L1 and L2 done by it.
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Old 06-16-2013, 09:35 AM   #20
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I think it's easier and safer to just live in the "what's available" world. Most class A's have a generator if you have to run both AC's, microwave/convection, reffer, everylight and every outlet. However I have found it's just a lot easier to limit your power demand. You will find that if you have a park that's designed for 30 amp service for all the sites and all of a sudden everyone is using these systems it will overload the parks system and will drop the voltage all around the park causing a bunch of other problems. So just live with 1 AC running at a time and shut some doors inside the coach and manage your power consumption.
X2. Trying to defeat systems will eventually have bad consequences.
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Old 06-17-2013, 03:38 PM   #21
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The question was do I have to buy a 30 to 50 amp adapter separately or can I use the 30 amp leg of the camco cheater adapter when plugging into a 30 amp site.
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:12 PM   #22
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The question was do I have to buy a 30 to 50 amp adapter separately or can I use the 30 amp leg of the camco cheater adapter when plugging into a 30 amp site.
The answer is NO.

This was answered in post #16.

It will ONLY power one side or one leg of your power panel inside your coach.

The typical 50 amp coach uses two 50 amp LEGS to power the entire coach. The ONLY 240 VAC power that is found is at the pedestal using the 50 amp Plug & Outlet.

Once that power enters the coach and goes through the transfer switch and into you power panel it is split into two 120 VAC legs. One leg will power about one half of you coach and the second leg the other half.

There is nothing in your coach that runs off of 240 VAC.

There are some newer coaches that are using 240 VAC appliances but they are generally the ALL electric coaches.

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Old 06-18-2013, 12:34 AM   #23
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The answer is NO.

This was answered in post #16.

It will ONLY power one side or one leg of your power panel inside your coach.

The typical 50 amp coach uses two 50 amp LEGS to power the entire coach. The ONLY 240 VAC power that is found is at the pedestal using the 50 amp Plug & Outlet.

Once that power enters the coach and goes through the transfer switch and into you power panel it is split into two 120 VAC legs. One leg will power about one half of you coach and the second leg the other half.

There is nothing in your coach that runs off of 240 VAC.

There are some newer coaches that are using 240 VAC appliances but they are generally the ALL electric coaches.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Thank you
I'll purchase a dogbone as soon as I get to the USA.
Additionally, I haven't got a straight answer out of my storage place as to whether the surge protector in the Signature has been replaced with progressive one. I m loathe to buy one in case I already own one.
In the mean time apparently the Sig came out with a basic surge protection but as the second owner I'm flying blind
Thanks again for your input.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:05 AM   #24
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I believe the Sig did NOT come with an EMS unit that protects the coach from faulty power like the Progressive Industries HW-50C units do.

They did come with some protection but it is NOT the same protection that the HW-50C provides.

However, most PI EMS Hw-50C units were installed after market. If the original owner had put one in, they would be able to tell you.

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Old 06-19-2013, 12:29 AM   #25
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I have ordered a Progressive Ems unit which is now on its way.
I've asked NIRC for a quote to install it.
So we are on track
Thank you all for your time and effort
PS
I've read the theory behind the wiring in the USA and now fully understand it.
So hopefully no more stupid questions from me.
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