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Old 10-22-2019, 06:57 AM   #15
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You have described 2 different problems in your question.
The first problem is are the 6v batteries good? The way to check that is to pull the batteries from the RV and charge them using a home type charger, borrowing one from a friend, or taking them to a good battery shop. After charging, take them to a reputable shop and have them load tested. If they are good, great, if not, then you will have to spring for new ones.
The second problem is the discharge of these batteries. There are 2 ways to attack this problem. The first is to install a battery cut off switch. There are different types available, just choose the best one for your battery compartment. The second is to find the source of the discharge. You can do this at home going step by step, or have shop do it for you.
It would definitely be wise to install a battery cut off switch so that you can leave the batteries in the coach for a length of time without their power being drawn down. In any case, be sure to protect the batteries from freezing.
Good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 10-22-2019, 01:03 PM   #16
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6 volt batteries need
To be topped off with distiled water. If they charge while short on water that can burn a memory into the lead plates.
I personally changed over to Deka group 31 AGM batteries. No maintenance other than cleaning up the post and cabels that was twelve years ago.
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Old 10-22-2019, 02:23 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carl.swoyer View Post
6 volt ...
I personally changed over to Deka group 31 AGM batteries. No maintenance other than cleaning up the post and cabels that was twelve years ago.
Stopped by a 'good' battery store the other day to do some comparison shopping compared to a GC2 at Sam's Club

Choked at the price!!!!!

The first rule of shopping is buy what you need not what makes the most profit for the person selling you something.

A few questions later I was able to figure out the equivalent battery was $20 more per battery. That is $80 more for all four not $400 more.

So how much is it worth to not get your hands dirty.
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Old 10-22-2019, 02:29 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by arnold931 View Post
I have a 2008 Fleetwood Southwind. As with most motorhomes (I assume) I have one 12 volt battery in the engine compartment and two 6-volt batteries daisy-chained for the coach. The 6-volt batteries were new this spring. We are going to Florida in January so I am leaving the batteries in the RV until we get back to Iowa in February. I am going out once a week and starting the engine for 15-20 minutes to make sure all the batteries stay charged. The last few times the 6-volts have been dead. My Aux indicator shows blank while the Main shows 12-13 volts. The interior lights won't turn on. After running the engine for a few minutes, I then have voltage in the 6-volts. Is it possible the 6-volts have gone bad?
You haven't said if the house is using power, while in storage, like inverter on and even with no load. Fridge running on propane perhaps. Other things can cause battery drain, as well, so if not needed, then shut them off, when not in use and see if that helps.
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Old 10-24-2019, 03:22 PM   #19
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Wow! Thanks for all the ideas. First I don't have any electricity available at the storage lot so I don't have any of those options. I do have a small (6"x18") solar panel on the roof that is supposed to help keep the batteries charged but it either isn't working or isn't enough.

I pulled the batteries today and took them back where I bought them. They will test/charge for me. I will find out next week. They are still under warranty. Before I pulled the batteries I checked the voltage with the indicator inside the coach. It read 5 volts. The cells were all full.

As far as I know everything is turned off inside. If the batteries are good, then I have a drain somewhere. I ordered a Clamp Meter. I like the idea of a cutoff switch. I'll have to research that.

After reading these comments, I have a few more questions:
1-Someone mentioned Storage Mode. I don't know what that is. Maybe I don't have it in my model(2008 Fleetwood Southwind).
2-People mentioned inverter/convertor. Are they the same thing? Does it get it's power from the generator?
3-If I am plugged into shore power while camping, does that charge the 6-volts?
Thanks again for all the help.
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Old 10-24-2019, 03:39 PM   #20
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https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disco.../dp/B07MTXDHNV

Charge your batteries completely and install this switch. I guarantee you'll have power for many months while stored.
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Old 10-24-2019, 09:14 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnold931 View Post
After reading these comments, I have a few more questions:
1-Someone mentioned Storage Mode. I don't know what that is. Maybe I don't have it in my model(2008 Fleetwood Southwind).
2-People mentioned inverter/convertor. Are they the same thing? Does it get it's power from the generator?
3-If I am plugged into shore power while camping, does that charge the 6-volts?
Thanks again for all the help.
1) I don't know about your unit, but I have a chassis battery disconnect in the chassis battery bay and a house battery disconnect inside the motorhome. These are designed to remove loads from the batteries, although some small loads (smoke detectors, keyless entry, etc) will remain connected.
2) An inverter generates 120 volt ac from your 12 volt D.C. battery bank. A converter does the opposite for the purpose of charging your batteries.
3) Yes, when plugged into shore power the converter (if working properly) will convert that shore power to DC in order to charge your 6 volt house batteries.
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Old 10-25-2019, 09:06 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arch Hoagland View Post
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disco.../dp/B07MTXDHNV

Charge your batteries completely and install this switch. I guarantee you'll have power for many months while stored.
Granted, but is this the only coach I ever heard of, that doesn't have a house battery switch, just inside and next to the entry door, somewhere?
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Old 10-25-2019, 09:34 AM   #23
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Both disconnects should be in the cabinet above the door, although a quick look at an online manual indicates "if equipped"
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Old 10-25-2019, 09:38 AM   #24
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Several posters above have nailed the issue. I am sure you don't want to hear it, but I will say it anyway. The batteries have been severely abused.
Lead acid batteries need to be stored fully charge.

Your RV has "always connected" 12 volt devices. This is often referred to as parasitic load. Parasitic load will drain your batteries in less than 2 weeks. You may have a central "battery shut off" which does not shut off everything. You may get a little more than 2 weeks with a shutoff.

Some owners install shutoff switches near the battery bank to conveniently disconnect them. New flooded cell deep draw batteries will last for 3 to 6 months when disconnected before they need 14 to 18 hours full charge.

It takes 14 to 18 hours to fully charge lead acid batteries no matter how big your charger is. That is the chemistry of lead acid batteries.

To store your RV without a power source like shore power or solar, you must fully charge the batteries, check the water levels, and disconnect them at the battery terminals.

Both the house battery bank and the chassis battery are going to have this problem. Different chassis systems will last different lengths of time, but in the end they will also need 14 to 18 hours of charge time.

You can store with shore power connected and disconnect-switches on. You need to periodically check water levels in this case. You do not need a 30 or 50 amp power source for this. Many owners use a 15 or 20 amp 120 volt outlet for this.

You can also move the RV to a power source and plug in for a day every week or two. Then move it back to storage. Or, you could run the generator over night every week. Static battery voltage must be above 12.7 volts for storage.

The batteries you have may be recoverable, or they may never be sufficient again. If you dry camp you probably will want to do more than just recharge and recondition. You will probably want to replace them. If you always stay in RV parks with electric hookups, you may get by with reconditioning.
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Old 10-26-2019, 09:23 AM   #25
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Small solar

If you don’t have power where your store your rig - strongly consider a small solar system.

First you need to know your usage - a battery monitor like Victron BMK-712 about $200 is super useful.

For a small solar system:

A 200 watt solar panel $165 (or two) mounts ($10-50), solar controller ($120) wire &misc ($50)

Total $300 to $700 your batteries will stay fully charged - and you won’t have to replace them nearly as often, because then the only abuse to them happens when you are using your rig - not when storing it.
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Old 10-26-2019, 11:54 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnold931 View Post
Wow! Thanks for all the ideas. First I don't have any electricity available at the storage lot so I don't have any of those options. I do have a small (6"x18") solar panel on the roof that is supposed to help keep the batteries charged but it either isn't working or isn't enough.

I pulled the batteries today and took them back where I bought them. They will test/charge for me. I will find out next week. They are still under warranty. Before I pulled the batteries I checked the voltage with the indicator inside the coach. It read 5 volts. The cells were all full.

As far as I know everything is turned off inside. If the batteries are good, then I have a drain somewhere. I ordered a Clamp Meter. I like the idea of a cutoff switch. I'll have to research that.

After reading these comments, I have a few more questions:
1-Someone mentioned Storage Mode. I don't know what that is. Maybe I don't have it in my model(2008 Fleetwood Southwind).
2-People mentioned inverter/convertor. Are they the same thing? Does it get it's power from the generator?
3-If I am plugged into shore power while camping, does that charge the 6-volts?
Thanks again for all the help.
This is usually also referred to as the "Salesman Switch". Here is what my battery disconnect looks like and is located above my entry door - notice the "Use/Store" switch on the lower right of the panel? When in Use mode batteries will be charged if running genny, driving, or on shore power. If in Store mode, none of the charging happens.




You may also have a B.I.R.D. system in your power bay (usually, at least that is where mine is). It's part of the charging control path and routes charging voltage to the house bank first and when it's above 13.3V it activates a "combiner" solenoid that combines both house and chassis banks and charges both. Here is what a B.I.R.D. looks like



The Combiner Solenoid is the big black device above the BIRD in this pic.



I think the middle solenoid marked "Coach" is either engergized or de-energized by the battery disconnect when you press Store and Use
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Old 10-27-2019, 04:28 PM   #27
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I totally forgot I had Disconnect switches! "Main" and "Aux". Right above the entry door. I still have a lot to learn.
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Old 10-27-2019, 06:18 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic View Post
Both disconnects should be in the cabinet above the door, although a quick look at an online manual indicates "if equipped"
Last time I remember seeing those switches above the entry door, was in our 87 Pace Arrow. Don't know when most manufactures went to an area down below and near the steps, but it's been awhile and where they were on our old 98 gasser, as well.
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