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Old 09-28-2016, 07:56 PM   #1
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'99 Affinity starter won't turn over

I recently purchased a '99 Country Coach Affinity and today, when I turn the key, I get nothing. The batteries are showing 12.5 v with a meter on the battery but the volt meter on th dash is only showing 10 volts. Dash lights up and the diagnostic ques are all normal. It started fine two weeks ago and has been on shore power since then. Does anyone have any suggestions?
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Old 09-28-2016, 07:59 PM   #2
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'99 Affinity won't start

I recently purchased a '99 Country Coach Affinity and today, when I turn the key, I get nothing. No sound, no click, just silence. The batteries are showing 12.5 v with a meter on the battery but the volt meter on th dash is only showing 10 volts. Dash lights up and the diagnostic ques are all normal. It started fine two weeks ago and has been on shore power since then. Does anyone have any suggestions?
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:27 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aroadracer View Post
I recently purchased a '99 Country Coach Affinity and today, when I turn the key, I get nothing. The batteries are showing 12.5 v with a meter on the battery but the volt meter on th dash is only showing 10 volts. Dash lights up and the diagnostic ques are all normal. It started fine two weeks ago and has been on shore power since then. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Do you know how old the batteries are? Your coach might not charge the chassis batteries when plugged in.

I would charge the chassis battery up with a charger, or pull it and get a load test done on it.

Before troubleshooting a no start issue you must make sure you are getting sufficient voltage and amps.


I am not familiar with your coach, but most RV have a Switch on the dash that connects the house batteries to the chassis batteries to aid in starting when the chassis battery is dead.
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:55 PM   #4
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First thing I would do is remove, clean and reinstall the battery terminals. Also check the negative cable to chassis ground connection. Was the 12.5v reading taken after the batteries have rested and disconected? Do you have a battery boost switch and have you tried that? Sounds like a bad connection somewhere. The 12.5v reading is low if it's been plugged in, might have a weak battery.
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Old 09-28-2016, 10:06 PM   #5
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Look in the engine compartment for a starter relay and give it a good wack. Mine is located on the engine side of the battery compartment down low.
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Old 09-28-2016, 10:29 PM   #6
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Seems to me the Affinity should have a chassis boost switch. If so, my understanding from Country Coach is that sometimes they installed heavy duty solenoids (200amp continuous) and sometimes not. They told me if the coach has the lighter duty solenoids and boost switch is left in the on position while plugged into shore power it could burn out the solenoid/s. Also, do you know if you have an Echo charger or equivalent installed? I don't know on your model but I don't think Country Coach installed them on the earlier builds. I had to add one on my Concept. In case you don't already know, the Xantrex Echo charger (or equivalent other brand) will charge the chassis batteries while plugged into shore power once the house batteries are charged to a certain point. If you don't have one already it's an easy install and not very expensive. Mine was $105 for the part and I installed it myself.

In any case, I don't think your chassis batteries should drain down significantly over a couple weeks. That's why I mentioned the boost solenoids. I had one short out and cause a draw that killed my chassis batteries overnight. I also agree you should definitely check your ground contacts and clean the battery terminals. Especially since you are reading 12.5v at the batteries and only 10v on the dash gauge. Of course, that is assuming your dash gauge is giving an accurate reading. Mine does not so I added an additional digital voltage gauge to the dash.

By the way, my coach has two solenoids per boost system and I'm guessing yours does as well. If you do end up with a bad solenoid I would strongly suggest changing them both.

Hope this helps.


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Old 09-29-2016, 06:19 PM   #7
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is your allison transmission pad lighting? is it showing anything besides N?
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:30 PM   #8
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I agree with TR4, clean all connections with steel brush and use dielectric grease on each connection.
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Old 09-29-2016, 07:01 PM   #9
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Quick easy check for ignition solenoid on the front run bay panel. Turn on the ignition switch. Is the center row of leds lit on the fuse panel? If they are lit up quit suspecting the ignition solenoid. If leds not lit, then ignition solenoid is not passing power to that fuse panel.

Use a jumper wire and connect the two large terminals on the ignition solenoid. Caution, there is significant current flowing between these two terminals so just briefly touch the terminals so as not to over heat the wire. Do the leds light up? If the leds light up trouble shoot the solenoid. No lighting leds, no power to the large terminal on the solenoid.

Oh, has the engine emergency kill switch in the engine bay been depressed?
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Old 09-29-2016, 08:28 PM   #10
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ok, I replaced all of my battery terminals with some very heavy duty models I found on Amazon. Batteries are all charged to 13.5 volts. All led's are lit on the panel in the electrical bay. I used a remote starter switch and jumped the starter solenoid (big terminals) under the rear bumper on the right hand side and the engine started easily. I then jumped from the large 12V terminal to the positive side of the small terminals and nothing. Im deducting from this that the solenoid is bad. The good news is I can start the motor and leave on my weekend trip tomorrow with only minor inconvenience. Is it worth buying the correct part through Winnebago or will any generic 12V 100 amp solenoid do?

thanks everyone for all of the constructive input!
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Old 09-29-2016, 09:17 PM   #11
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Congratulations on chasing the problem down. My recommendation is a Cole Hersee solenoid, continuous duty, isolated coil, with silver alloy contacts. If you need 200 amps then the 24213 is a good choice. Think I paid about $45 for it. If you could find it the 24213-01 would be even better as it is epoxy coated and and has better vibration resistance.

Mine is located in a similar position as yours and I'm replacing it in the near future with the Cole Hersee 24117. It is coated like the 24213-01 but only 85 amp. My start circuit has a 30 amp fuse in series with the connection from the solenoid to the starter so I don't need the higher amp solenoid.
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