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Old 01-05-2014, 06:39 PM   #1
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99 HR Endeavor 37WDS dewinterize and winterize for Florida trip...

I will be heading to Florida in late Feb for a two week plus vacation heading out from northern Ohio.

I am going to be staying at the Disney Fort Wilderness campgrounds.

I just bought the coach this summer and the previous owner said it was winterized.

Well, being that this is my first class A, I'm not familiar with how to dewinterize when I arrive at Disney.

I will also have to winterize on the return trip. We are making a stop into Warrior Alabama to visit some family, so, I don't think I'll winterize until we leave that location.

I would sure appreciate some help and suggestions on dewinterize/winterize from HR Endeavor owners. What to look for, what to avoid etc...

If needed, I can post pictures of anything required.

I want this trip to be as free of problems as possible

1999 HR Endeavor 37WDS
Handicapped Lift Equiped
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Old 01-05-2014, 07:55 PM   #2
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Location: Palm Bay, FL
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Bad Bolt,
Here is how I dewinterize.
If I'm headed to a warm destination in the middle of winter then I wait until I'm going to be far enough South that I know its not going to freeze again. At that point I hook up a water source and flush all of the water lines starting with the furthest faucet. I run the water until the pink rv anti-freeze is gone or until the water runs clear. I'm assuming that your motorhomes water lines were winterized with rv anti- freeze. Make sure you purge the washing machine lines if you have them and purge your low point drain lines and any outside faucets. After this I go outside and open the drain on the water heater. It is a plug accessed through the external water heater outside. Careful there, if it was charged full then it may have some pressure when you remove the plug. Most people including myself have a water heater bypass valve located somewhere in the lines that let you turn the valve to specifically let you bypass the water heater so you don't fill the water heater with anti freeze. I open my drain plug because my bypass valve leaks by a little. I then turn the water source back on and let it flush the water heater a little. After that I shut the water off, put the plug back in the water heater and then sanitize the water system.
To sanitize your water system you will have to put some water in your on board water tank and then add bleach to the water tank. Go to each water faucet and open it and let the water run until you smell the chlorine bleach. The bleach needs some residency time in your system to kill any germs. I usually leave it a couple of hours. You will have to read up on how much chlorine bleach is recommended in how much water. I don't get real detailed here I just mix it pretty strong. Careful cause chlorine is corrosive. After the chlorine has sat a while in the lines and water tank I drain the tank and flush everything with water real well.
Now all that being said. Some people don't sanitize their lines and tank but just hook up the water and flush the system well. I've never felt comfortable with that especially if its been sitting all winter.
Some people winterize their water lines with low air pressure to blow out the water lines. If this was the case then just hook up your external water source and flush the system and then sanitize it.
If you have a manual that came with the motorhome it should cover the winterizing and dewinterizing procedures.
Hope this helps. Probably sounds like a lot but really it only takes a half hour or so to flush the lines. The sanitizing part takes so long because the chlorine needs to sit a while.
Hope someone else will jump in on how to winterize. I've typed a lot and may time out.

04 HR Ambassador 38 PDQ ISC 330 Cummins,
2016 Chevy Colorado crew cab Z71
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Old 01-05-2014, 08:23 PM   #3
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I don't wait to leave freezing temps to dewinterize. I turn my furnace and basement blower on the evening prior to departure, hook up the water hose, flush out the plumbing, and fill the water heater. I'll also fill the fresh water tank until it's 1/4-1/2 full.

As long as my furnace is running, I'm not concerned about anything freezing up.
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Old 01-05-2014, 09:03 PM   #4
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Hey, the sanitize routine is a great idea that I did not think about.

Any other tips are very welcome!!
1999 HR Endeavor 37WDS
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Old 01-05-2014, 09:06 PM   #5
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Your coach should be fairly similar to mine.

Do you know how the previous owner winterized the icemaker and lines to the icemaker? My coach has a snap off wood panel under the sliding doors of the closet in the bath area. Inside this area is the water heater by-pass valve and the manual cut-off for the ice maker line. When I winterize, I close the hot water heater by-pass to keep the antifreeze out of the water heater. I also disconnect the line to the ice maker at the cut off valve and drain it by disconnecting the other end at the outside panel of the refrigerator. I like to keep the anti-freeze out of the ice maker. I also disconnect the plastic line at the ice maker solenoid (outside panel) and drain it. Having said all of that, since you don't know how it was done, be sure to check the connections at the ice maker manual cut off valve, and the two connections at the ice maker solenoid. Once you have water flowing again to the ice maker, recheck these connections for leaks. A leak at the solenoid will flow down the outside of the metal line and soak the interior floor under the closet (been there done that).

When you're flushing out the antifreeze, don't forget the toilet spray line the washing machine connections, and the outside valve in the wet bay. I forgot the washing machine connections once, and had foamy water for a while...and it does not taste good.

When it's time to winterize again, if your wet bay is like mine there are 3 valves in the rear of the bay. The one on the far left is the tank drain, and the other two are low point drains. To suck the antifreeze up (using the on-board water pump) into the pipe nipple at the front edge of the wet bay, those valves have to be set properly. If you don't have a manual, I can scan and email that page to you if you send me an email address via private message.

Unless you're in bitter cold weather, I agree you could dewinterize before leaving on your trip. We recently camped in Texas during the winter storm where it was 19 degrees and windy and the furnace kept everything from freezing.

Fred & Vicki
St. Augustine, Fl.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:43 AM   #6
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I am going to add a bit more to the excellent advice you have already been given. I believe you are new to this so if I am giving advice you already know I apologize.

One of the previous posters mentioned heater bypass valve. I did not get from his post that water heaters have to be drained when you use this valve and pump rv antifreeze into the lines. IF the previous owner drained the water heater check to make sure the drain plug is back in the water heater and is tight. Open the bypass valve when you are flushing the system out with fresh water this will make sure that you get the heater filled with water. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE you have water in the water heater before you turn it on. If you use it in electric mode running it with no water will destroy the heater. I do not know what happens if you use the water heater on propane mode with no water. Not sure I am in a big hurry to find out.

If you decide that you have air and do not want to use the antifreeze method you can buy a fresh water hose connector that has an air hose quick disconnect male end. You just hook it up to the fresh water hose put the other end in your air line and then set your air regulator at about 45 psi. The air will push the water out of the water heater but I still go ahead and shut the bypass valve and remove the drain plug. While the water is draining out I go around to all of the faucets. Shower, sinks etc and open them one at a time to allow the air to push the water out. I do this about three times. I then go out to the water heater bypass valve and open it allowing the air pressure to blow all the water out of the lines going to the water heater. When I am through with all of this I put the drain back into my water heater and put the bypass valve in the normal position. If you are draining with air remember that just because you have drained the water lines you do not have any protection for the drain traps. I try to put about a cup of RV antifreeze in each one and then split the rest of a gallon between grey and black tank
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Old 01-06-2014, 06:48 PM   #7
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Thanks very much for the other tips.

The coach is in Ohio, so, I can't look in the areas suggested yet.

I don't have a washer and do have the plumbing. I'd guess nothing to do there.

The icemaker is what I need to figure out the what and where next weekend.

I was just replacing all the cabinet hardware from brass to brushed nickel and did see two copper lines coming down from the bottom of the refridgerator as I was vacuming the furnace area just below it when I removed the halway side furnace cover. I dont think I saw any shut off valve. I'll start there and follow the path.

I'll take a bunch of pictures.

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florida, winter

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