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Old 07-23-2014, 02:52 PM   #15
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All great suggestions. Here is one for the AC breaker that might trip more often under severe heat. If the breaker panel is in a closet then open the door to cool the panel. In one situation ours did not get enough cooling by that alone and I actually put some small washers behind the screws that hold the cover in place so heat could escape.

If your ductwork is connected front to back you may be able to close off the rear of the MH and force all of the air forward during the day and close off the rear area.

This suggestion is extreme but effective. Remove the inside AC shrouds and let the air blast down and use a couple of electric fans to move the air. Ducts cause tremendous resistance to air flow and they are often very hot inside. I have modified my shrouds and do not use the ductwork at all. It is louder but much more effective. Living in the Sacramento Valley teaches you some tricks with the heat. Also always try to park with the front windshield to the East or North.

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Old 07-23-2014, 03:03 PM   #16
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Have you ever had the coils on the roof top unit cleaned? They can get full of dust,especially in the southwest. This will cut down on their efficacy and can overload the unit. If you have not had them cleaned, got to Lowes or HD, get some coil cleaner, remove the AC roof cover and clean the coils early some morning.

You'll be surprised at how much difference it will make.

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Old 07-23-2014, 04:49 PM   #17
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The key is to stop the heat before it enters the RV. First, find as much shade as possible, point the rig so it does not get broadsided by the sun. Point to the east and put a screen on the exterior of the windshield for the AM and use the awning for mid day shade. Put exterior screens on any window that get sun at any time during the day. Remember, any heat that does not enter the RV does not have to be removed!

I live in AZ. While parked at the house, I have the exterior type of sun screen on the windshield and front side windows. On the road, parked as above, it will drop the interior by 20* on warm days (not hot). At home the rig points north so not as much help and afternoons are horrible. Last summer I made covers for all side windows. Made a big difference. Mid afternoon I can go in and with my awning down it will be 80*+, as opposed 100* + inside. Not cold by any means, but doable for short duration chores that need to be done and a single A/C unit will work, if needed for big jobs, though I try to do those in the AM over a few days.

A single 13.5 unit needs all the help it can get in those temperatures!
We like to take advantage of the A/C in the Casinos late afternoons and early evenings while the Rigs A/C is trying to maintain it's cool!

I was driving east on I-40 from Barstow a few weeks ago. My rear A/C unit is non-operational so I just kept driving to make it home that night! The most mile ever for me in a single day! The main 13.5 unit, on it's own, will not control the temps inside when the outside is 100+. I don't even like to drive my car in temps over 100!

Luck at the Casinos,
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Old 07-23-2014, 05:29 PM   #18
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You will be seeing higher than 103F temps. Have you considered going up on Mt Charleston to one of the campgrounds up there. Do a search and see if you can get any reservations. There are only a couple. It will probably be a little inconvenient, but it is only about 40 miles from the strip.
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Old 07-25-2014, 10:17 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Sky_Boss View Post

It is much better to get window shades on the OUTSIDE of the window. It is better to reflect as much heat outwards as possible before it gets through the glass.
keep the heat on the outside

The biggest heat generator is the windshield and front window area. Cover them from the outside. Stop the heat there. I have a great windshield cover that requires no snaps or ladders and it's the first thing that goes on/up after I am parked and leveled when it is hot...


A/C circuits can pop when you get a volt shortage or brownout if you will. Most CG's are older and have very low voltage during the heat of the day when all the coach's are pulling heavy for A/C. I have a 30 amp coach but if I can I plug into a 50 amp site, helps tremendously on the volts.
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:08 AM   #20
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Not pretty but VERY effective. It's that bubble/aluminum stuff, it's been trimmed a bit since this pic and looks a bit nicer. Rolls up and stores in shower or at foot of bed.

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Old 07-25-2014, 08:10 PM   #21
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Sandy foot go to home depot on Decatur I think u may be at oasis im at lvmc anyway pick up a 150 dollar portable swamp cooler aka evaporative cooler fill with water leave a bit of room for ice in the tray too old special forces trick. Swamp coolers work exceptionally well if you don't need it after that take it back donate it or hang on to it you prolly wont even need your ac. P.S. love santa cruz
Never argue with a moron they will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.
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Old 07-26-2014, 10:08 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by SandyFeet View Post
We have only one 13.5 A/C unit.
Park your RV and stay at a motel. Seriously.

I'm staying in a Lake Havasu park model with a 2 ton AC unit and it's on CONSTANTLY.

August is monsoon season where not only are the temps triple digit, but the humidity is high.
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Old 07-26-2014, 01:29 PM   #23
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Go to Kalispell, Mt and enjoy. pc
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Old 08-05-2014, 10:23 AM   #24
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AC runs a lot

searching for exterior window mods/screens and found this thread.
I found the exterior window shades reduce the amount to heat that makes the AC run so much.....we are in the process of making our own exterior window shades for our 5th wheel Big Horn.
Anyone have a source to purchase the materials? (don't want top pay the huge cost for the custom ones, we can do it for a lot less)

Gary & Cynthia
Lancaster, Ky
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