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Old 05-27-2018, 08:07 AM   #1
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A/C Issues

I'm seeking opinion on what to do with the A/C in my 2004 Winnie Sightseer. After spending near $40.00 on Freon only to find out the condenser core has major holes in it and that the parts to repair are incredibly expensive, I am left with using the generator and roof A/C while traveling. Another problem is that during out "Maiden Voyage" the temp was about 88 degrees outside and the temp progressively rose inside the motor home. I have considered replacing the 14 year old rooftop unit with a new 15000 BTU and pressing on. The existing unit is clean and has no issues that I have found other than it won't keep the coach cool while going down the road. I know the unit is 14 years old but it appears to work well while stationary. Will a 15000 BTU unit really help that much? we are only talking about 1500 BTU difference. I have also considered one of the portable home A/C units but have read on this forum that they sometimes don't work very well due to negative pressure. Feel free to chime in and post your opinions. Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-27-2018, 08:19 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acpd22 View Post
I'm seeking opinion on what to do with the A/C in my 2004 Winnie Sightseer. After spending near $40.00 on Freon only to find out the condenser core has major holes in it and that the parts to repair are incredibly expensive, I am left with using the generator and roof A/C while traveling. Another problem is that during out "Maiden Voyage" the temp was about 88 degrees outside and the temp progressively rose inside the motor home. I have considered replacing the 14 year old rooftop unit with a new 15000 BTU and pressing on. The existing unit is clean and has no issues that I have found other than it won't keep the coach cool while going down the road. I know the unit is 14 years old but it appears to work well while stationary. Will a 15000 BTU unit really help that much? we are only talking about 1500 BTU difference. I have also considered one of the portable home A/C units but have read on this forum that they sometimes don't work very well due to negative pressure. Feel free to chime in and post your opinions. Thanks in advance.
You didn't say how long your coach is but in my experience with my 40' DP the only way to get the roof A/C unit to cool the interior while we drove was to close the bathroom and bedroom doors to make the area that is being cooled as small as possible. You should also close the window shades and if you have them, close the darkening shades as well. You don't want any extra sunlight coming in the room you're trying to cool.

Good luck!
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Old 05-27-2018, 08:44 AM   #3
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A/C issues continued

It's a 28 foot and the shades are down and the doors are all closed. I think that closing off the vents in the bedroom and shutting that door as well could help though.
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Old 05-28-2018, 07:34 AM   #4
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Check with a RV junkyard about replacement condensers. Might find one cheaper.

Last Friday even running both Rooftops and the dash I went all the way into heat exhaustion during set up.. Thankfully I was far enough along I was able to pause. chill out a bit, do a bit more and then chill out even more but .. I did not pull the pins on the car till the next day. and even as recent as yesterday I was still affected. But Yesterday i was driving my car. And I got the A/C on it up to spec.. that was nice as the cabing temp went BELOW 70 degrees. but I was rather unsteady till I got the A/X up tro spec. and 90 degrees in the shade at the concert was no help either (I had a good supply of water) Something to read

heat-stroke-vs-heat-exhaustion
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Old 05-28-2018, 10:19 AM   #5
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How much is the quote to replace the condenser? Advance Auto lists new direct fit condenser for 2004 F53 chassis for $122 w/lifetime warranty. Add a new accumulator is $35. Condenser is mounted in front of fan easy to access so remove and bolt in new one 1-2 hr. labor. Vac down and recharge system shouldn't be over $100. Total cost should be under $500 figuring some mark up on parts and $100/hr labor. Still less than a new roof a/c upgrade.
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Old 05-28-2018, 12:23 PM   #6
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When using the house air conditioner/generator while going down the road make sure all your roof exhaust vents are closed. While driving, an incredible amount of air is sucked out of the motorhome by those things.

I finally gave up on the dash air and always use the roof air and generator while driving. We have two roof airs and I use both of them.
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Old 06-06-2018, 06:19 PM   #7
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A/C issues continued

Well, after an exhaustive search for a new condenser I was told a little over $1000.00 plus tax by a wholesaler. It would seem that my condenser also has the engine oil cooler made into it which drives up the price. If anyone on the forum has genuine expertise in automotive A/C, I pose this question. If I separate the two components and purchase them separately would this work. Keeping in mind that the condenser I can get is about $220.00 before shipping and is 5/8th thick where the OEM is about 2" thick. I have been told that the system would require the thick one and probably would not cool very well with the thinner replacement.

On another note if I change my 14 year old rooftop unit rated at 14800 BTU, am I going to experience any significant difference with a new 15000 BTU unit?
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