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Old 10-13-2015, 08:29 PM   #29
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I have the winterizing process with water lines figured out. I have a plan with the mouse traps and moth balls, But i am still not sure what way i should go regarding storing of the batteries and starting the motor home during the winter.

I would like to pull the batteries and bring them in doors to put on a battery tender. the MH will be outside with no power hook up
If i do that then it will be difficult to go out from time to time to start the motor and run the generator.

So what do most people do under those circumstances. Leave batteries in and start monthly or pull the batteries and just park it?

2001 Itasca Horizon
24' Enclosed Car Hauler
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:59 PM   #30
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As the link says leave the engine go to sleep for winter.
You can use one of your pulled batteries to start Gen and run your AC's.
Once Gen is started converter will supply 12v for AC control boards.

98KSCA, 99MACA, 03 KSCA-3740- 8.1 Chev-- ALLISON Trans, now in good hands
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Old 10-18-2015, 03:32 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by bruxus47 View Post
'05 cat c7 DP.RR4R. 8 years experience winterizing gas, no problems , , but do I exhaust the air ? Do I use hydraulic levelers just touching , take load off tires ,or leave up? I'm level now. I am up on the water,oils,, batteries, genny, etc..I'm a DIESEL newbie, if you couldn't tell LOL.
Take the load off of the tires with the levelers, hydraulics don't care if they remain loaded for long periods of time, tires will develop flat spots over time.
Ed Spigle, Susan Davenport
32 foot gold 2011 Vesta & "hands on" Van
Charlottesville, VA
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Old 10-18-2015, 07:55 PM   #32
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These are a couple suggestions I've not heard. So, DON'T run the engine in the winter, and DO put the coach on the hydraulic levelers???

2008 HR Ambassador 38 PDQ 360DP ISC
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Old 10-19-2015, 03:47 AM   #33
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I did speak to my manufacturer's (Thor Motorcoach) "concierge" about storing on jacks and whether to leave the slide in or out:

1. On or off jacks, they recommended cycling them every 3 weeks - they use transmission fluid for the hydraulic fluid and it keeps the jack posts coated with a thin layer. Up or down is your choice. I keep them down to keep the weight off of the tires.

2. Slides can be in or out - should be cycled as above as well - I left mine out at times but the precaution here is that the slide cover that diverts the rain away from the top of the slide (mini awning-type cover) can get ice/snow on it and you need to clear it before retracting the slide if you want to take a trip in the cold. I got a cover as well, so slide's in for me.
2016 Tiffin Allegro 32 SA
2018 Jeep (JL) Wrangler
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Old 10-28-2015, 12:01 PM   #34
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Hey Everyone! Here are a few video links that helped me prepare for this Winter, hope it will help with your RV Winterization!
This link talks about running the Pink Anti-Freeze through the lines and flushing it.

For Windows, I've used Heat Shrink Wrap with a hair-dryer before to insulate from cool drafts from leaking in my house, so I'm sure it could work on an RV but to maintain them throughout Winter, make sure to reseal windows with clear caulk.
For Water Lines, along with the pink anti-freeze flush, I've heard wrapping them in Styrofoam Pipes will prevent them from freezing.
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Old 10-28-2015, 07:24 PM   #35
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Pay a Professional

Just had our 40ft DP with 1 & 1/2 baths, DW, ice maker winterized by the dealer for $125. Worth the peace of mind.
Bob & Nancy M & Lexi (7lb Maltese)
2014 Tiffin Phaeton 40 QBH, 380HP Cummins, Allison trans
2014 GMC Acadia Toad, Blue ox & Patriot Brake
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Old 10-29-2015, 05:52 PM   #36
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Hi Ho: I installed a push button switch energizes the water solenoid for the ice maker so that can be blown along with everything else. Be sure to run water out of the spigot for filling water cups until just air comes out. And remember the outside shower. The washer/dryer can be done by energizing both hot and cold fill lines to clear them of water, and the drain can be done by putting antifreeze in and running a drain/spin cycle to clear most of it out.

I would think about getting ours done, but hassle factor of taking the coach to them, coupled with the chance that their $10/hr kid doesn't do it right is just not worth it to me.
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Old 10-31-2015, 09:13 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by Lloyd in S.C. View Post
I sorta have the same question. Been winterizing RV's for 30 years,,,,,,, but our new one has a washer, dish washer and a icemaker. I don't care for the blow out plan, really hard to know you don't have some laying in a elbow someplace. I think I can pump anti-freeze thru everything but the ice maker,,,, not sure how to get it to run thru there?

It won't make ice unless cold enough, and I think it will take a couple trays to flush it through?

Here is what I have done - after emailing Winnebago with the questions - the answer was to jump the 120 volt solenoid that allows water into the ice machine. The solenoid usually trips when it is told the freezer is at a freezing temperature. To jump it I purchased one of those cheapo 8 foot white extension cords. I cut off the receptacle end and replaced it with two spade electrical connectors that matched those on the solenoid. I then purchased an inline on/off switch and put it in line about six inches from the connectors. Now I remove the wires from the solenoid (after taking a picture or marking them so I put them back right) connect the extension cord and then plug in the extension cord. You should see pink up to the solenoid and when you turn the switch on the pink will flow past the solenoid into the ice machine. Only takes a few seconds on to do the job. I think everything was under $10 at Walmart. Get the extension cord that reaches a coach receptacle in my case the inverter which has a receptacle on it is located in a compartment below the solenoid (which is in the refrigerator outside vented opening) so 8 foot was long enough. Don't forget to remove the separate ice machine filter if it has one (mine does).
Bob and Cathy
2015 Itasca Sunova 33c towing a 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara
Member FMCA F421963, GS Life, SKP#127220, WIT, PA,
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Old 11-01-2015, 11:23 AM   #38
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Here's a tip that I hope will save someone some trouble next spring when they are thawing out and getting ready for a new season.

While all of us in cold weather winterize with the pink stuff, I had been told to empty my tanks before I started the winterizing process. We were done with our season a little early this year, we came off the road on Sept 25th. So today is Nov 1st and I winterized the coach.

Here are two tips I learned, one of them the hard way.

1st - When you are ready to complete your winterization routine, open the black water and grey water tanks one more time. When I did, there was non pink water in the pipes leading from the tank to the valves. I watched as about a gallon of clear water poured out. Then I closed all the valves and poured another gallon down the toilet and the sinks.

2nd - Our coach has a black tank cleanout connector so I can connect a fresh water hose as I am emptying my tanks and clean out the sticky stuff. Always manages to get that tank a little more clean, glad I do it. But, I found out that the connector that runs from the inside water compartment to the black tank was filled with water. I poured about 16 oz of pink stuff down that valve and made sure it too was winterized.

If this has already been covered elsewhere, I apologize for the time waster but I thought it could save someone some real heartache in the future.

Carol & Mitch roaming around in a new 2013 Thor Tuscany 40EX
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Old 11-05-2015, 07:38 PM   #39
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Thanks for the tips Mitch, many dead ends that can use some pink stuff one also from city water valve to a whole house filter which gets over looked unless you also blow air through lines before pink stuff add.
98KSCA, 99MACA, 03 KSCA-3740- 8.1 Chev-- ALLISON Trans, now in good hands
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:00 AM   #40
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Take no chances...quick easy and cheap......hard lesson learned!
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Old 01-04-2016, 03:15 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by "007" View Post
Blowing out your water system should be OK in southern states but would empty WH and any water in tanks so no problems when going to use coach.
Really? Only blow out your water lines in southern states. I've been doing it in Wyoming with no problems. My RV manual and all the other RV manuals of units I have owned suggest that either way you winterize is OK. Either blowing out your lines or using antifreeze. Either way done correctly works. Either way done wrong could cause problems.
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Old 01-05-2016, 07:40 AM   #42
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I start the winterizing by blowing out all the lines with the by pass valves open so the water heater gets blown out also. Then I close the by pass to get the lines dried out. I leave the drain plug out of the water heater all winter long.
I also use the pink RV antifreeze. I remove the hose from the fresh water tank to the water pump and stick it into a gallon jug of antifreeze. With all the faucets shut off I then turn the pump on and one by one I open each faucet until clear pink antifreeze appears. When it does I shut the valve and go to the next one until I have done them all. Then I run antifreeze into the toilet until it appears solid pink.
Shut the pump down and reconnect the hose.
I like using the antifreeze as a safety net as well. It helps to keep the rubber parts in the faucets and toilet valve soft and lubricated. I leave the antifreeze in the holding tanks to help prevent any chance of any residual water left from draining the tanks from freezing. I also dump straight antifreeze into the sink drains to prevent the traps from freezing.
Don't forget the shower either. I disconnect the shower hose and make sure it is thoroughly drained and the shower head is dry. Afterward I put the hose back on and run antifreeze through it. This keeps the seals in the head lubed and soft as well.
All of this might take 3-4 gallons of antifreeze but this stuff is cheap in comparison to replacing parts unnecessarily IMO.

2002 Fleetwood Storm 30H on Workhorse P32 chassis 8.1 gas.
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