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Old 10-04-2015, 08:09 AM   #1
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A favorite for some of us "WINTERIZE"

What can I say its that time of the year again "WINTERIZE."
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Old 10-04-2015, 09:16 AM   #2
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Yep,,, that time is right around the corner.

I plan on using the motorhome a few more weeks before throwing in the towel for the winter.
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Old 10-04-2015, 11:24 AM   #3
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'05 cat c7 DP.RR4R. 8 years experience winterizing gas, no problems , , but do I exhaust the air ? Do I use hydraulic levelers just touching , take load off tires ,or leave up? I'm level now. I am up on the water,oils,, batteries, genny, etc..I'm a DIESEL newbie, if you couldn't tell LOL.
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Old 10-04-2015, 11:48 AM   #4
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I am new to RV world, bought my Bounder in August. I have a general question on winterizing. I plan on using my RV end of OCT for a weekend trip and probably a trip around Thanksgiving. So my question is how much do i winterize if i plan on taking it out on some cold weather camping trips? I am in Okla and we get snow and ice and freezing temps but it it not like it is for months or even weeks on end. What is the best plan to keep the RV cared for but available during the winter months? I have a winterizing checklist downloaded to follow so i know the complete list to do, but i don't want to reopen everything every time i want to go out on a nice weekend in the winter. I have a cover and a 20AMP service while the unit is in storage mode at my property. So it is always hooked up to a shore source.
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Old 10-04-2015, 04:47 PM   #5
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We use our coach a great deal but are inactive for a few weeks in Nov then three weeks in December. What I didn't want to do was use antifreeze then have to flush all the fresh water systems. Also , while we live in Kentucky, we don't want to face mountain driving (North Carolina or Tn) with snow.

Thor clearly lists the steps necessary to blow the lines without using antifreeze. Saves a lot of work to use the coach.
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Old 10-04-2015, 05:57 PM   #6
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Blowing out your water system should be OK in southern states but would empty WH and any water in tanks so no problems when going to use coach.
A ice make in fridge drain water feeding it and what ever line feeding the water valve feeding the line until spring.
Jacks its up to you but unnecessary will most likely need to clean shaft if it gets dirty.
Tires on plywood or plastic cutting boards you can purchase at Sam's so tires are separated from ground and will last longer.
The link has info for winter camping and travels.
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Old 10-04-2015, 07:48 PM   #7
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007 Lol I think I follow all your post but what is meant by "blowing out your line" you mean hook a air compressor up to a water line some where and blow air thru the lines? What point would I hook up this connection? I have a residential fridge and the water cut off valve for the ice maker is under my sink but getting to the lines is not easy. I do have the low point drains for both hot and cold and I understood that opening them would fully drain any water from my coach even the HW tank. I am not sure you can totally flush the grey and black tanks but I would think a half gallon of antifreeze in thos would suffice for any water still in the holding tanks. Other than the water, my coach will remain plugged in to a 20 AMP supply anytime it is "stored" so I am not worried about my batteries. Am I missing anything else here?
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Old 10-05-2015, 08:41 PM   #8
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I sorta have the same question. Been winterizing RV's for 30 years,,,,,,, but our new one has a washer, dish washer and a icemaker. I don't care for the blow out plan, really hard to know you don't have some laying in a elbow someplace. I think I can pump anti-freeze thru everything but the ice maker,,,, not sure how to get it to run thru there?

It won't make ice unless cold enough, and I think it will take a couple trays to flush it through?

L.
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Old 10-07-2015, 07:09 PM   #9
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last year I got a nipple for an air hose from the RV store that screws onto the city water supply inlet. I connected my 30gal air tank after cranking it up to 40 psi and then rolling it out to the RV. Blew out the lines, opening each water tap and toilet from the closest to the water supply to the furthest (including outside shower) AFTER draining black and gray water completely

We're in Maryland - many below freezing weeks.

so, after emptying the gray/black tanks:

1st - bypassed water heater tank and drained hot water heater - left out drain plug
2nd - opened low point drain to fresh water tank/system and let it completely drain
3rd - attached air compressor tank to city water inlet and opened taps, shower, toilet each until no water. Then did it again several times until no hint of water when opening taps, etc.
4th - Antifreeze put down each drain to fill the traps and about a half gallon into the gray water and black water tanks to assure any residual doesn't freeze. Some antifreeze in the toilet bowl as well to keep the seal from drying out - 1 gallon of antifreeze total.

It worked fine over the winter - we took a trip down south for a week and it was easy to hookup the water at the campsite and just had to run the water to get the air out of the system, no residual antifreeze, quick de-winterizing for an impromptu trip. not too shabby. and easy to re-winterize when we got back home.
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Old 10-08-2015, 06:53 AM   #10
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I use Dave-Oh method,s But only I pump the pink rv-antifreeze thru the lines. I use about 6- gals. Its better to be safe then sorry.... $24 bucks verses maybe a thousand dollars worth of damage. I,ll spend 24 bucks every yr for a peace of mind. But I also put kitty litter in small containers inside the camping area, this helps keeps the moisture low and gives it a fresh clean smell in the spring.
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Old 10-08-2015, 08:14 AM   #11
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Thanks Dave and coupe !!!!! I am heading to CW next week and will ask about the Air coupler for the water connection. I have a Pan cake compressor and that will work perfect for the procedure. I don't mind doing the procedure you all described each time I go out on a winter camping and come home to store, seems easy and quick using the attachment. Must get antifreeze as well so it will be a good trip. Great feedback!
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Old 10-08-2015, 10:05 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Dean View Post
Thanks Dave and coupe !!!!! I am heading to CW next week and will ask about the Air coupler for the water connection. I have a Pan cake compressor and that will work perfect for the procedure. I don't mind doing the procedure you all described each time I go out on a winter camping and come home to store, seems easy and quick using the attachment. Must get antifreeze as well so it will be a good trip. Great feedback!
Be careful with the pancake compressor. Many of these compressors can build way more pressure than the water lines can handle.
Use a pressure regulator set for 40# or less or use a pressure tank with a gauge on it so you won't have too much pressure.
I have seen water lines shredded from using shop compressors delivering 150# or more.
If you have a Harbor Freight store nearby they have a regulator which can be bought for under $15.
Lynn
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Old 10-08-2015, 10:23 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by LETMGROW View Post
Be careful with the pancake compressor. Many of these compressors can build way more pressure than the water lines can handle.
Use a pressure regulator set for 40# or less or use a pressure tank with a gauge on it so you won't have too much pressure.
I have seen water lines shredded from using shop compressors delivering 150# or more.
If you have a Harbor Freight store nearby they have a regulator which can be bought for under $15.
Lynn
I use my pancake compressor for several nail gun applications, it has a regulator and setting control on it for gun control on the nail guns. Most finish and brad nailers don't need as much pressure as a framing gun. I had already understood I want to set my max pressure to 35 psi or so. Thank you for the reminder tho.
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Old 10-08-2015, 05:27 PM   #14
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I blow out all my lines then put a couple gallons of RV anti-freeze in the fresh water tank. I then run the pump and fill all the lines with the anti-freeze. This assures me the pump is protected and all the faucet washers, the toilet valve and tank drains have anti-freeze in them. The anti-freeze helps keep all the rubber parts pliable. I don't drain the anti-freeze out until the unit comes out of storage. Then it gets a thorough flushing.
I also use a liberal amount of straight automotive anti-freeze poured into the drains to protect the traps.
It gets goll darned cold up here in the winter months. I would rather be over protected than under protected.
Lynn
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