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Old 08-11-2012, 09:30 PM   #29
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Thanks. I'm at a loss as to why this thing won't totally kick butt when on the road. a 40+ degree differential in ambient air temp and vent temperature is great - says these units are working great.

I'm going to have a look at the venting.

I found a few reason for compressor cycling:
Low temp (in the room where the Thermostat is located
Low temp (Freeze sensor.
High temp (Compressor over-temp device/circuit breaker
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Old 08-11-2012, 09:38 PM   #30
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Not enough air going thru coil. 20 degree drop across coil is normal.

At 40 Degrees your DE-humidifying, but not doing much cooling. You running the fan on high?
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Old 08-12-2012, 09:43 AM   #31
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Not enough air going thru coil. 20 degree drop across coil is normal.

At 40 Degrees your DE-humidifying, but not doing much cooling. You running the fan on high?

I'll check..
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Old 08-12-2012, 06:38 PM   #32
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On high (auto) today, with the sun up, we were cooling 30 degrees. 95 degrees outside temp (and in the coach - we were putting out 65 degrees at one of the vents nearest the unit.

The evaporators have some fuzz on them, which we tried vacuuming with a small vac / brush, but that wasn't working.. The right way to do it is to disassemble from the outside.

The box looks sealed well within the coach and the few vents that I checked were also well sealed with AC tape.
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Old 08-12-2012, 07:47 PM   #33
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Ambient means what the temp is entering the coil and the temp is leaving, not outside air temp. You trying to cool a rig in the afternoon when it's 95 INSIDE?
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Old 08-12-2012, 08:33 PM   #34
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You trying to cool a rig in the afternoon when it's 95 INSIDE?
Yep. Let it sit out long enough and it'll reach outside air temp. This is Texas, after all..
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Old 08-13-2012, 01:40 PM   #35
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First, there is no such thing as an analog relay, they are binary by nature (ON/OFF) But do not let that worry you.

Depending on your A/C.. I had to replace a Carrier V 13.5.. I replaced it with an Advent Air 15K. (Carrier is out of the business and not selling parts so no hope of an exact replacement.. or is there)

Advent uses the same ductwork as Carrier, different ceiling unit however, BUT, They know Carrier exited the business so they have a "Be kind to Carrier owners" plan.

I switched one socket on the Carrier electroncis box (This is up in the ceiling uint, with the one Advent supplied, plugged in their adapter cord, and .. Guess what, it works

4 bolts, and 3 plugs that's all there was to it.

I did hire the job done though.. WHY? Well, I think I have the strength to get the unit about 1/2 the way up the ladder, than I"d have had to hang there for like 30 minutes before continuing.. The dealer's front end loader did it in one.
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:47 PM   #36
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I think the term analog relay refers to a relay that's triggered by current in coil.. :-)

So I ordered a 15k unit, PN 59516 from RV Country on 8/14 and it arrived today.
Total cost was $634 shipped to my door.

Opening it up, it ships with a non-ducted ceiling assembly, which I don't need (pn 3107206), which I'll probably sell on ebay.. It looks like this:


Our existing control unit is 3106481. It looks like two things need to be plugged in, one is a 6-pin connector, which will drop right into the existing control unit. The other is the freeze sensor, which looks like this:


The existing freeze sensor simply clips on to an exposed evaporator coil, however, the 15k unit does not have exposed coils.. It does have more evaporator area, but no exposed coils. I've asked dometic about it, but I'm guessing the answer is going to be to buy a freeze sensor that fits into the evaporator fins...

The unit came with a new seal, so thats one less thing to worry about... My main road-block right now is thinking about how I'm going to get a 100 lb AC unit that isn't very easy to handle on top of the RV....

Our other modifications are going to be to replace the vents in the rear of the RV with vents that can be shut down.. IE - we're going to shut down cooling to the bedroom when on the road. The manufacturer of RV AC vents in the USA appears to be DWIncop and the only vent that will drop-in replace our existing duct work is the Aireport, which has no directional control.... The good news is that they're cheap at $2.75 each.
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Old 08-19-2012, 11:30 AM   #37
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In case anyone reads this in the future, here are the stumbling blocks:

1) Verifying compatibility between the new AC unit and existing AC controls. New AC units ship separately from the electronic controls. The controls must be compatible with both your AC unit(s) and your thermostat.

2) Physically getting the new AC up on an RV is problematic. It's not so much that the unit weighs 100lbs, it's that there isn't a good way to hold while attempting to get on the roof. A tractor with a front end loaded, a forklift, a BobCat - or maybe renting a lift from Home Depot might be good solutions.

Other stuff you'll need:
1) AC vent tape, if you have a ducted unit.


FYI, here is how I got the new unit up and down:


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Old 08-19-2012, 05:03 PM   #38
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Replacing 13.5 with 15. A/C

We were going to do the same thing when our Newmar DP's 13.5 front a/c failed. This didn't happen because of Dometic's policy of replacing inkind under warranty and $$ differences between Dealer, Dometic and us. The dealers' mechanic told us he had made the switch on a Newmar DP and at Dometics recommendations they installed 2 more ceiling vents in the front
of the RV. I would recommend that you look into this item before you move forward with your project!! The mechanic also added that with the 2 additional vents and the 15 unit you could hang meat in the front of the RV.
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Old 08-19-2012, 06:44 PM   #39
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If I had the slightest idea of how to adjust the existing venting, I'd think about it... however, I *think* it would require a major ceiling disassembly.
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:52 PM   #40
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My husband could have done it but he wasn't home.

We changed both of our 13.5ks out for 15k, really been welcome in this heat.

Still if its hot and starting from 95 or so it takes some time to cool all the inside furnishings. Feels good after that though.
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:18 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb1000rider View Post

2) Physically getting the new AC up on an RV is problematic. It's not so much that the unit weighs 100lbs, it's that there isn't a good way to hold while attempting to get on the roof. A tractor with a front end loaded, a forklift, a BobCat - or maybe renting a lift from Home Depot might be good solutions.
Getting it on the roof is not easy without some equipment. It is not that heavy , it is just awkward.

Another thing to add in my case was to open the blocked off duct work. I added a rear unit. I was plumbed and wired for it. On one side the vent was open and the factory had the other side blocked off. It took several disassembles before I realized what was wrong. I had low airflow on one side of the RV that turned out to be cross flow through the front AC.

I also found a baffle in one side that I thought was trash left in the duct work so I removed it. I had a horrible resonance that would give you a migraine Once i placed the baffle back the thumping went away. Turns out it was not trash, it had a purpose.

I hope this helps someone else.
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:06 AM   #42
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Can you expand on how to get to the duct work? Holiday Rambler's are fiberglass roof, foam, and aluminum sides/frame... What I see is ducting cut in foam immediately out of the AC box, but I know this has to lead to a distribution system connected to actual ducts....

I don't see access panels in the ceiling.. :-)
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