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Old 10-21-2015, 08:35 AM   #1
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AC / Heating issue

Hi All,

We have a 2004 Winnebago Adventure 35U with basement air.

When we bought it in March 2015 both of the compressor's worked ( is that the right way to say that )
a about a month ago a strange electrical type smell started coming through the vents in the ceiling. When I flip the breaker to turn off the 2nd compressor the smell goes away.
I tested the power last night by unplugging from shore power and starting the generator. With no ac on it shows 6Amps, turn on the 1st ac it stays at 19Amps. When I turn on the 2nd compressor it jumps to 56Amps and doesn't start. (then rests at 19Amps again) it cycles through trying to start every 20Sec or so.

If any of this makes no sense let me know. Or if more info is needed !

Thanks
Dave
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Old 10-21-2015, 09:14 AM   #2
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Basement air/heat pump units have a switch located in the main shore power bay that selects 30 or 50 amp power connection. when on 30 power, switch to "off" position, on for 50. when in "off", only one compressor will run. If you are hooked to 50 amp, check the switch, it may be trying to use both compressors then switch tells it NO. good luck.
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Old 10-21-2015, 09:30 AM   #3
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---56 amps sounds like a locked compressor......time for a new unit.....??????
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Old 10-21-2015, 09:34 AM   #4
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Our second compressor quit working but was able to get it fixed without replacing. Lot cheaper.
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Old 10-21-2015, 11:52 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alleyman View Post
Basement air/heat pump units have a switch located in the main shore power bay that selects 30 or 50 amp power connection. when on 30 power, switch to "off" position, on for 50. when in "off", only one compressor will run. If you are hooked to 50 amp, check the switch, it may be trying to use both compressors then switch tells it NO. good luck.
I've got basement air (heat pump) and never heard of that switch. Not sure I'd even have it cos on my rig, if I'm plugged into 30Amps instead of 50Amps, it automatically switches to only run one compressor.
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Old 10-21-2015, 01:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooperhawk View Post
Our second compressor quit working but was able to get it fixed without replacing. Lot cheaper.
Thanks for all the info,

Cooperhawk: can you remember how it was fixed / what was wrong ?

Thanks
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Old 10-22-2015, 09:52 AM   #7
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Yes, a coolent pipe had cracked and it lost it's freon. The tech at ABC Bus soldered it, filled it up, pressure checked it and reinstalled it. The unit drops right out of the rig and can be serviced right on the floor of the shop. Cost was a few hundred dollars and the unit is still working.
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Old 10-22-2015, 10:14 AM   #8
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Have the same 54 Amp locked rotor condition on my 1st stage compressor. Unhooked the power from the circuit board to 1st stage, taped the wire and running it with just the second stage until it gets fixed.
Possibilities are bad "hard start" capacitor/PTCR (Positive temperature coefficent relay) or main capacitor <$20 and $10 respectively on eBay> or an acutal motor problem.
Look at the circuit board area for burnt wires. Some recent posts and pictures of this condition, do a search.
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Old 10-22-2015, 11:50 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alleyman View Post
Basement air/heat pump units have a switch located in the main shore power bay that selects 30 or 50 amp power connection. when on 30 power, switch to "off" position, on for 50. when in "off", only one compressor will run. If you are hooked to 50 amp, check the switch, it may be trying to use both compressors then switch tells it NO. good luck.
Maybe some but not all. FYI Mine does not have that switch.
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Old 10-22-2015, 05:21 PM   #10
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Your excessive power draw could be something as simple as a bad start capacitor. I would try replacing that first before digging deeper. The electronics are located in a box accessible from the front without having to remove the unit. Here is a service manual for one of the AirXCel units like yours. This is the model I had in my '06 Itasca.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf AirXCel 6535 Service Manual.pdf (935.4 KB, 7 views)
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Old 10-26-2015, 09:33 PM   #11
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Thanks for the info Lt Dan, I found the Hard Start capacitor to be a melted mess lol, I've order 1 and should be here in the next few days. I'll update once I have it fitted and tested.
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Old 10-29-2015, 02:02 PM   #12
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UPDATE:

The "Hard Start Kit" I order arrived and was fitted last night. So far all is working

I ordered 2 of these kits as in other posts I found that they are known to go bad, for an easy fix and only $30 ish I'm not going to be without.

Just on a side note, I've noticed that the other Hard Start unit is not original !


Thanks again to everyone for there help ! Saved us $$$$$ by not having to call out a tech.
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