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Old 08-18-2018, 08:36 PM   #29
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I would check amp draw. Once up and running compressor and both the fans, should stay at 12-14 amps or so. Watch your clamp meter and if you see amperage creeping up that might help.
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Old 08-18-2018, 09:35 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by electrowood View Post
ScopeGuard, Turn power "off", Disconnect both fan motors wires, turn thermostat "off", Turn Power "on", Have someone turn thermostat to "cool", and listen to compressor. It will not hurt to run it this way for a short while. You can now tell if the compressor is "running" or "humming" (stalled). If it runs the problem can be checked with an a/c clamp-on amp probe. High amps equals blocked refrigerant system ( reversing valve,start/ run capacitors, etc ). If the condensor coils are blocked with dirt or bugs the headpressure will increase and so will the amps. If you keep testing the end result will be a shorted compressor motor. If it is stalled( start/run capacitors, low votage, bad connection, bad compressor [sorry]

link to manualhttps://www.airxcel.com/DesktopModules/RvProduct/Pdf/1976665.pdf

Good luck, Ken


Ken,
Thanks but I posted the unit runs and cools for three minutes, compressor drops, will not restart.
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Old 08-18-2018, 11:53 PM   #31
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Ken,
Thanks but I posted the unit runs and cools for three minutes, compressor drops, will not restart.
If you have a clamp on ammeter on the common wire of the compressor and it is reading the compressor full load amps or less and the compressor shuts down 99% of the times it means the compressor did not cut off due to its internal or external overloads. If this is what happens look for the problem in the compressor control circuit board or another control other then the compressor. At this point your clamp on ammeter is going to be your best tool to help isolate the source of your problem.
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Old 08-20-2018, 11:29 AM   #32
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If you have a clamp on ammeter on the common wire of the compressor and it is reading the compressor full load amps or less and the compressor shuts down 99% of the times it means the compressor did not cut off due to its internal or external overloads. If this is what happens look for the problem in the compressor control circuit board or another control other then the compressor. At this point your clamp on ammeter is going to be your best tool to help isolate the source of your problem.


Roy,

The RLA specs for the compressor is 12.4. With clamp on ammeter the reading starts at 11.7 and builds to 15.7 after operating for 5 minutes, compressor kicks off.

Don
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Old 08-20-2018, 11:37 AM   #33
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Roy,

The RLA specs for the compressor is 12.4. With clamp on ammeter the reading starts at 11.7 and builds to 15.7 after operating for 5 minutes, compressor kicks off.

Don
It sure seems like you found the problem. I would think the draw shouldn't go up like that but hopefully some experts can weigh in.
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Old 08-20-2018, 11:39 AM   #34
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Roy,

The RLA specs for the compressor is 12.4. With clamp on ammeter the reading starts at 11.7 and builds to 15.7 after operating for 5 minutes, compressor kicks off.

Don
Either bad starting capacitor or overly high head pressure. High head pressure would point towards a plugged or partially plugged expansion valve, dryer, etc. It can't be overcharged, it just feels like it. Coils all clean? Right?
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Old 08-20-2018, 01:18 PM   #35
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Either bad starting capacitor or overly high head pressure. High head pressure would point towards a plugged or partially plugged expansion valve, dryer, etc. It can't be overcharged, it just feels like it. Coils all clean? Right?


Once it’s started and operating properly would it be the start or run capacitor? It operates properly for 3-5 minutes then compressor and condenser fan shut off.

I noticed the condenser fan motor gets a lot hotter than its counterpart on the front ac unit after running same length of time. I don’t have a thermal temp gun to compare temps.

These motors are thermal protected. I’ve not checked the amp draw.

The coils are clean.
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Old 08-20-2018, 01:24 PM   #36
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What does the evaporator look like while all this is happening? Is it uniformly condensing water or only at one end? Could be a combination capacitor for both compressor and fan. That might explain the fan motor getting hot. You need to eliminate the compressor as an issue. Hot evaporator lines, cold suction line and uniformly cool evaporator. You could use the clip on on the compressor alone to see if it is climbing in current during your 5 minute run.
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Old 08-20-2018, 01:48 PM   #37
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What does the evaporator look like while all this is happening? Is it uniformly condensing water or only at one end? Could be a combination capacitor for both compressor and fan. That might explain the fan motor getting hot. You need to eliminate the compressor as an issue. Hot evaporator lines, cold suction line and uniformly cool evaporator. You could use the clip on on the compressor alone to see if it is climbing in current during your 5 minute run.


All that looks good, lines ok.



The RLA specs for the compressor is 12.4. With clamp on the common wire for the compressor the ammeter reading starts at 11.7 and builds to 15.7 after operating properly and cooling for 5 minutes, compressor kicks off, condenser fan motor kicks off.
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Old 08-20-2018, 01:53 PM   #38
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Ford F53 chassis manual

Anyone knows where I can get a Ford F-53 Motorhome Chassis Workshop Service & Repair Manual 2014? I have been online and found a website that says they have it. When I down loaded it was a 2011 to 2014, so I contact them, and told them it did not have all of the 2014 model year changes. They said sorry about that and sent me a 2012 to 2014, it to does not have all of the 2014 changes. Again I contacted them and told them that the top of each page must have 2014 or it may not have all of 2014 changes. Well its been two week and they have not emailed me back. The down load cost only $18.00 so I am not much.
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Old 08-20-2018, 02:01 PM   #39
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If the lines and evaporator look normal, I would look at the capacitor. That can cause a good compressor to draw more current than the spec. If you can get one, it would be an easy test. If your units are identical, move the cap from the rear unit to the front unit.
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Old 08-21-2018, 07:02 AM   #40
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This unit has a restrictor that has possibly not shifted to proper position. Try in heat mode to see if compressor runs. If it does then switch back to cool and may be ok.
Good luck, Ken
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Old 08-22-2018, 07:30 PM   #41
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I’m still working on the AC unit. I ran both units today until back (problem) unit turned off after about 5 minutes, turned off front unit. Took temp readings of all four electric motors (housings) with digital infrared temp gun. Front evap motor 120F, condenser motor 118F. Rear evap motor 112F, rear condenser 205F. The capacitor is rated 185F for a thermally protected motor. The overheated motor has got to be shutting the system down.
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Old 08-23-2018, 07:56 AM   #42
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Lack of air flow across condenser will cause high discharge pressure in the sealed system due to refrigerant not condensiing from vapor to liquid. Many compressors have failed because of this issue. The high pressure switch is probably shutting compressor down. The schematic shows N.C. on high pressure switch but the circuit does not function properly. It probably is N.O. so that when you have high pressure the relay picks up andlocks compressor out from running.
Good luck, Ken
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