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08-18-2018, 08:36 PM
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#29
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,209
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I would check amp draw. Once up and running compressor and both the fans, should stay at 12-14 amps or so. Watch your clamp meter and if you see amperage creeping up that might help.
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08-18-2018, 09:35 PM
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#30
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by electrowood
ScopeGuard, Turn power "off", Disconnect both fan motors wires, turn thermostat "off", Turn Power "on", Have someone turn thermostat to "cool", and listen to compressor. It will not hurt to run it this way for a short while. You can now tell if the compressor is "running" or "humming" (stalled). If it runs the problem can be checked with an a/c clamp-on amp probe. High amps equals blocked refrigerant system ( reversing valve,start/ run capacitors, etc ). If the condensor coils are blocked with dirt or bugs the headpressure will increase and so will the amps. If you keep testing the end result will be a shorted compressor motor. If it is stalled( start/run capacitors, low votage, bad connection, bad compressor [sorry]
link to manualhttps://www.airxcel.com/DesktopModules/RvProduct/Pdf/1976665.pdf
Good luck, Ken
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Ken,
Thanks but I posted the unit runs and cools for three minutes, compressor drops, will not restart.
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08-18-2018, 11:53 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Minden nevada
Posts: 735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScopeGuard
Ken,
Thanks but I posted the unit runs and cools for three minutes, compressor drops, will not restart.
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If you have a clamp on ammeter on the common wire of the compressor and it is reading the compressor full load amps or less and the compressor shuts down 99% of the times it means the compressor did not cut off due to its internal or external overloads. If this is what happens look for the problem in the compressor control circuit board or another control other then the compressor. At this point your clamp on ammeter is going to be your best tool to help isolate the source of your problem.
__________________
2002 country coach allure 32 foot dual slide 350 cummins ISC
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08-20-2018, 11:29 AM
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#32
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy1
If you have a clamp on ammeter on the common wire of the compressor and it is reading the compressor full load amps or less and the compressor shuts down 99% of the times it means the compressor did not cut off due to its internal or external overloads. If this is what happens look for the problem in the compressor control circuit board or another control other then the compressor. At this point your clamp on ammeter is going to be your best tool to help isolate the source of your problem.
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Roy,
The RLA specs for the compressor is 12.4. With clamp on ammeter the reading starts at 11.7 and builds to 15.7 after operating for 5 minutes, compressor kicks off.
Don
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08-20-2018, 11:37 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScopeGuard
Roy,
The RLA specs for the compressor is 12.4. With clamp on ammeter the reading starts at 11.7 and builds to 15.7 after operating for 5 minutes, compressor kicks off.
Don
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It sure seems like you found the problem. I would think the draw shouldn't go up like that but hopefully some experts can weigh in.
__________________
1996 Tioga Class C
2007 Monaco Diplomat 40 PDQ
TOAD 2012 Cadillac SRX 4
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08-20-2018, 11:39 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScopeGuard
Roy,
The RLA specs for the compressor is 12.4. With clamp on ammeter the reading starts at 11.7 and builds to 15.7 after operating for 5 minutes, compressor kicks off.
Don
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Either bad starting capacitor or overly high head pressure. High head pressure would point towards a plugged or partially plugged expansion valve, dryer, etc. It can't be overcharged, it just feels like it. Coils all clean? Right?
__________________
Scott Brownstein
Palm Island, Florida
2015 Georgetown 335DS
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08-20-2018, 01:18 PM
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#35
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sbrownstein
Either bad starting capacitor or overly high head pressure. High head pressure would point towards a plugged or partially plugged expansion valve, dryer, etc. It can't be overcharged, it just feels like it. Coils all clean? Right?
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Once it’s started and operating properly would it be the start or run capacitor? It operates properly for 3-5 minutes then compressor and condenser fan shut off.
I noticed the condenser fan motor gets a lot hotter than its counterpart on the front ac unit after running same length of time. I don’t have a thermal temp gun to compare temps.
These motors are thermal protected. I’ve not checked the amp draw.
The coils are clean.
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08-20-2018, 01:24 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,799
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What does the evaporator look like while all this is happening? Is it uniformly condensing water or only at one end? Could be a combination capacitor for both compressor and fan. That might explain the fan motor getting hot. You need to eliminate the compressor as an issue. Hot evaporator lines, cold suction line and uniformly cool evaporator. You could use the clip on on the compressor alone to see if it is climbing in current during your 5 minute run.
__________________
Scott Brownstein
Palm Island, Florida
2015 Georgetown 335DS
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08-20-2018, 01:48 PM
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#37
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sbrownstein
What does the evaporator look like while all this is happening? Is it uniformly condensing water or only at one end? Could be a combination capacitor for both compressor and fan. That might explain the fan motor getting hot. You need to eliminate the compressor as an issue. Hot evaporator lines, cold suction line and uniformly cool evaporator. You could use the clip on on the compressor alone to see if it is climbing in current during your 5 minute run.
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All that looks good, lines ok.
The RLA specs for the compressor is 12.4. With clamp on the common wire for the compressor the ammeter reading starts at 11.7 and builds to 15.7 after operating properly and cooling for 5 minutes, compressor kicks off, condenser fan motor kicks off.
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08-20-2018, 01:53 PM
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#38
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Junior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 8
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Ford F53 chassis manual
Anyone knows where I can get a Ford F-53 Motorhome Chassis Workshop Service & Repair Manual 2014? I have been online and found a website that says they have it. When I down loaded it was a 2011 to 2014, so I contact them, and told them it did not have all of the 2014 model year changes. They said sorry about that and sent me a 2012 to 2014, it to does not have all of the 2014 changes. Again I contacted them and told them that the top of each page must have 2014 or it may not have all of 2014 changes. Well its been two week and they have not emailed me back. The down load cost only $18.00 so I am not much.
John S.
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08-20-2018, 02:01 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,799
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If the lines and evaporator look normal, I would look at the capacitor. That can cause a good compressor to draw more current than the spec. If you can get one, it would be an easy test. If your units are identical, move the cap from the rear unit to the front unit.
__________________
Scott Brownstein
Palm Island, Florida
2015 Georgetown 335DS
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08-21-2018, 07:02 AM
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#40
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Washington County, PA
Posts: 70
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This unit has a restrictor that has possibly not shifted to proper position. Try in heat mode to see if compressor runs. If it does then switch back to cool and may be ok.
Good luck, Ken
__________________
Ken & Karen & Rusty( puppy dog)
1994 Fleetwood Coronado 28.5' F53, Rebuild E4OD with upgrades, Banks Power, 2005 Dodge Dakota toad with Even Brake, Ultra Trac rear track bar
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08-22-2018, 07:30 PM
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#41
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 95
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I’m still working on the AC unit. I ran both units today until back (problem) unit turned off after about 5 minutes, turned off front unit. Took temp readings of all four electric motors (housings) with digital infrared temp gun. Front evap motor 120F, condenser motor 118F. Rear evap motor 112F, rear condenser 205F. The capacitor is rated 185F for a thermally protected motor. The overheated motor has got to be shutting the system down.
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08-23-2018, 07:56 AM
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#42
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Washington County, PA
Posts: 70
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Lack of air flow across condenser will cause high discharge pressure in the sealed system due to refrigerant not condensiing from vapor to liquid. Many compressors have failed because of this issue. The high pressure switch is probably shutting compressor down. The schematic shows N.C. on high pressure switch but the circuit does not function properly. It probably is N.O. so that when you have high pressure the relay picks up andlocks compressor out from running.
Good luck, Ken
__________________
Ken & Karen & Rusty( puppy dog)
1994 Fleetwood Coronado 28.5' F53, Rebuild E4OD with upgrades, Banks Power, 2005 Dodge Dakota toad with Even Brake, Ultra Trac rear track bar
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