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10-27-2018, 05:29 AM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 49
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Try WALMARTS, or any auto parts store. Walmarts is cheaper by far
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10-27-2018, 06:44 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 378
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I recently found that the multitude of preventatives only work to prevent ,if you get a load already contaminated they dont work, they may kill it but its still a issue.
There are a few 'converters' but not always on the shelf - read I mean READ the labels.
I used star tron and it performed as advertised converting the black sluge back to a burnable fuel,I had 250 gallons on board.
howes ,power sevice, etc, the truck stop products ,dont claim to convert only prevent.
Remember we dont typically have the same use cycle as a over the road truck ,we are more like boats - a lot of sitting maybe damp?
A marine product is superior in my opinion .
__________________
2005 volvo 670 12 speed auto shift
singled, hensley trailer saver smart car "on deck"
Newmar 34 rsks Torrey Pine
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10-27-2018, 07:18 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Lake Havasu City, AZ & Plover, WI
Posts: 6,403
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I must be the odd ball here or just lucky. My last five coaches have been diesel. The only thing I ever added to the fuel was an anti gel product 10 years ago when traveling in below zero weather. I drive about 10,000 miles per year spread out over the year. The longest it will sit is 5-6 weeks. I have never added any product to the fuel of our current DP with 55,000 miles and have never had a loss of power. All the filters get changed at the annual service and have never had a reason to change them between servicing. I buy fuel from high volume sources. What is the reason of all the problems posted here?
__________________
2006 Monaco Executive 44 Denali
2013 43 QGP Allegro Bus ( SOLD )
2013 Avalanche
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10-27-2018, 10:13 AM
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#18
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: West Palm Beach, FL. USA
Posts: 27,697
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New (ULSD) fuel and old engines (pre-2000?) may add up to fuel lubricity shortcomings, but most any diesel made in the last 15 years should be fine on ULSD. That said, adding a "conditioner" only hurts your wallet, so do what you feel is best.
__________________
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition and several other RVs
Home is West Palm Beach, FL
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10-27-2018, 10:39 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crasher
I must be the odd ball here or just lucky. My last five coaches have been diesel. The only thing I ever added to the fuel was an anti gel product 10 years ago when traveling in below zero weather. I drive about 10,000 miles per year spread out over the year. The longest it will sit is 5-6 weeks. I have never added any product to the fuel of our current DP with 55,000 miles and have never had a loss of power. All the filters get changed at the annual service and have never had a reason to change them between servicing. I buy fuel from high volume sources. What is the reason of all the problems posted here?
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just lucky
like me ,but it only takes one fuel stop.I think mine came from a mom and pop station in sebring florida,but I saw a local utility(electric line) truck there so I figured safe.
ya never know
__________________
2005 volvo 670 12 speed auto shift
singled, hensley trailer saver smart car "on deck"
Newmar 34 rsks Torrey Pine
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10-27-2018, 01:02 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 802
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Well, what I am really interested in the best route for our Coach's situation, sitting now with 1/2 tank.
My last fill to just over a 1/2 tank was at our local Costco, I know they get a good turn over on Diesel, but that fill was fall 2017.
My thinking is I'll add a little more than an ounce of Biobor JF - Diesel Fuel Biocide (may add it to a gallon of new diesel to mix and pour that into the tank).
Perhaps, down the road I'll add some Star Tron Gas Tank & Fuel System Cleaner just in case.
I'll let that site and probably add a conditioner before I start it again in a few months. I've learned not to really start it unless I can run the 1995 Cummins to operating temps, best to just not start it.
Hope my thinking is right.
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__________________
1995 36' Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser (Model #8360) on 1995 Spartan EC-2442 Chassis w/Granning Air Ride | Cummins B5.9L 12V 230hp | Allison MD3060 6-Speed WTEC II
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10-27-2018, 02:21 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Lake Havasu City, AZ & Plover, WI
Posts: 6,403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hone eagle
just lucky
like me ,but it only takes one fuel stop.I think mine came from a mom and pop station in sebring florida,but I saw a local utility(electric line) truck there so I figured safe.
ya never know
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Maybe Lucky, but I also farmed for 25 years with several diesel tractors, Combines and other diesel equipment without adding anything (except anti gel in the winter) to the fuel. Then 15 years in a business with diesel service trucks, crane trucks and mini excavators without any type of biocide. Through that 40+ years, never a fuel related issue. All fuel filters were changed at least once a year depending on hours of use.
__________________
2006 Monaco Executive 44 Denali
2013 43 QGP Allegro Bus ( SOLD )
2013 Avalanche
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10-27-2018, 03:25 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 378
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Biodiesel changed everything.
__________________
2005 volvo 670 12 speed auto shift
singled, hensley trailer saver smart car "on deck"
Newmar 34 rsks Torrey Pine
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11-01-2018, 09:16 AM
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#23
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Moderator Emeritus
Monaco Owners Club Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 13,426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lwmcguire
Fungal and microbial growth are the problem in Diesel, algae requires sunlight to reproduce
I prefer biocide treatment only unless you already have a contaminated system
There are no issues of using a higher dosage rate if you choose, only hurts your wallet
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The BioborJF label says "Concentrations in excess of maximum dosage may produce formation of solids." so there may be an issue if you overdose.
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Dennis and Katherine
2000 Monaco Dynasty
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11-01-2018, 10:25 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Sodus Point NY-Lake Henry Florida
Posts: 850
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barmcd
The BioborJF label says "Concentrations in excess of maximum dosage may produce formation of solids." so there may be an issue if you overdose.
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Mine arrived today so I read the instructions They recommend it be introduced into the pipeline in order to ensure complete blending with the fuel. At a minimum, agitating the fuel, so I did not add any of it. Startron arrived yesterday so I added that in both my coach and my off road storage tank. Never a problem with the off road product either. I'm going to purchase ten gallons of kerosene, mix the Biobor with it, and top of the tank in the coach. I estimate it's down ten gallons from my last fill, hopefully adding it mixed up in the cans should blend it well enough.
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Don and Nancy
Christians, NRA Endowment Members
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11-02-2018, 02:56 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 30,951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoachStreamr
Can you post a link to the specific HOWES conditioner that you use?
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Where and how you spend your money is exactly that, yours. You might find this ISO lubricity study interesting.
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD , ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA. " My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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11-02-2018, 03:02 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 30,951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoachStreamr
Have or Coach sitting now since May with fuel at 1/2 tank (filled to that level back in the previous fall).
I'm wanted to add some biocide. Initially, I was going to add Power Service Bio Kleen biocide but found out about Biobor JF Diesel Fuel Biocide (which is near 1/2 the cost) from here:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f112/help...ml#post4450179
After reading about the biocide to fuel ratio, are there any tips to find out if my fuel is currently contaminated or not? My diesel tank is colored black.
Instructions say to add 1 ounce per 40 gallons (shock application) if fuel is contaminated or 1 ounce per 80 gallons if clean (for a maintenance application).
Coach's Diesel tank is 100 gallon with estimated ~50 gallons of fuel.
If I can't check, should I just add one ounce, any tips?
All my filters were replaced in summer of 2017.
And, I now know I should fill the tank 100% if the Coach is going to sit for long periods. I won't be able to do that until the spring.
If anyone suggests not added these additives, that feedback is also appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
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There is no secret to keeping your fuel system clean, ALWAYS store your MH with a full tank of fuel. Moisture is the cause of virtually all fuel problems, with a partial tank there is enough air space to allow normal cooling and heating to cause humidity in the air to condense and fall to the bottom of the tank. When left un-disturbed for months it allows the fuel to deteriorate and stratify, then this: Algae is not Algae
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD , ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA. " My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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