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Old 06-27-2017, 06:18 PM   #1
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Adding hand sprayer

I am adding a hand sprayer to a dometic/traveler 511 toilet. The kit I bought was the wrong one as the vacuum breaker isn't long enough to enter the toilet. Can I just drill out the nipple where the hand sprayer connects, it appears that is the only difference?

I did this but the hand sprayer barely dribbles. Don't know its it worth buying the correct breaker or attempt to fix the water pressure issue.

~Dometic (385230325) Toilet Hand Spray Vacuum Breaker~

The water system is pretty simple main line feeds manabloc and goes into 1/2 flex then to 1/2 pex lines. I can't find any kinks. Mediocre pressure both with pump and city pressure.

Best I can tell its a design flaw, the 90 bends off the manabloc and 1/2 flex lines are so small you couldn't put a pencil into them. Not sure how they sell these as 1/2 lines.

But anyways if the vacuum breaker is valved different internally for a hand sprayer I will attempt to replace that, but don't need to waste 40.00 for nothing.

2000 Harney Motorcoach Renegade (SMC) 38ft.
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Old 06-27-2017, 10:51 PM   #2
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I wouldn't eliminate the vacuum breaker, if that's what "Can I just drill out the nipple where the hand sprayer connects?" would accomplish. If someone dropped the sprayer into the toilet and it allowed toilet water to backflow into your water system, Ewww.
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Old 06-28-2017, 12:06 AM   #3
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1st off....
The 500 series vacuum breaker w/o hand sprayer does NOT have the 'stub' on inlet pipe from water valve assembly (#385316906) like the vacuum breaker with hand sprayer (#385230335)

W/O sprayer stub


With sprayer stub


So w/o that small 'fluted' stub there would not be any place to secure hand sprayer hose to.

Hand sprayers are downstream of water valve so that water pressure is only present when flushing (water valve open) Sprayers are not designed to hold full line pressure...just like sprayers for kitchen sinks. Water not on...no flow thru sprayer


As for low water pressure on toilet..........
Turn off water supply
Remove water supply inlet to toilet water valve assembly and CLEAN inlet screen


Here is a source for the vacuum breaker with sprayer for cheaper pricing
Dometic Sealand 385230335 Traveler Lite Vacuum Breaker Kit w/Spray Camper Trailer RV
Use the correct part.

Sealand 500 Series manual......troubleshooting/parts list
http://www.dometicrvcentre.com.au/do...nager/item/157
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Old 06-28-2017, 08:35 AM   #4
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My breaker did have the nipple for the hand sprayer but it was sealed off/not drilled through. I did drill it through and connected the sprayer but almost no water comes out, just dribbles if I hold it low to the toilet while the flusher valve is open.

The pipe going to the toilet is so large compared to some of the connections at the manabloc I am thinking that is the core of the problem. All the pressure/volume that I do have just goes out the large outlet to the toilet and not enough reserve pressure is left for the sprayer.

Only thing I can think of is if the hand spray breaker has a restriction in the larger pipe that goes to the bowl so that it creates this pressure for the sprayer to work.
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Old 06-28-2017, 08:41 AM   #5
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Quote:
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Here is a source for the vacuum breaker with sprayer for cheaper pricing
Dometic Sealand 385230335 Traveler Lite Vacuum Breaker Kit w/Spray Camper Trailer RV
Use the correct part.
This isn't the correct part for the 511 toilet, this is the part that I ordered. The 511 has an extension on the pipe that goes to the bowl. The part number I listed is the correct part for my toilet.

Not sure why they decided to make so many variants of nearly the same thing. Seems it would just be much easier to provide the extension as an option in the kit for as a standalone part.
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Old 06-28-2017, 01:43 PM   #6
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The 335 part is for the 510 & 511.......but so is the 325 part except it has the longer extension .

Have you cleaned the water inlet valve screen?

Does your toilet bowl have the rim holes?

If water flow is 2 gpm the toilet and sprayer will work together.
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Old 06-28-2017, 06:24 PM   #7
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The 335 part is for the 510 & 511.......but so is the 325 part except it has the longer extension .

Have you cleaned the water inlet valve screen?

Does your toilet bowl have the rim holes?

If water flow is 2 gpm the toilet and sprayer will work together.
I did remove and clean the screen on the front of the water pump, it had plastic shavings in it but clean otherwise. When on city water is skips past the pump and screen anyways. I just replaced the manabloc because it has some pushed out orings that caused a little dribble but it was also clean.

I guess I will do some measurement tests and see what kind of volume I do have, the pump is rated for 3.5 gpm. I can check at the manabloc drain and at the faucets to see if there is a drop.

Sounds like water pressure/volume is the problem and not the breaker.

I am not sure about the rim holes it does wash down in a full circle not from just just one spot and spins around the bowl.
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Old 06-28-2017, 10:00 PM   #8
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I did remove and clean the screen on the front of the water pump, it had plastic shavings in it but clean otherwise. When on city water is skips past the pump and screen anyways. I just replaced the manabloc because it has some pushed out orings that caused a little dribble but it was also clean.

I guess I will do some measurement tests and see what kind of volume I do have, the pump is rated for 3.5 gpm. I can check at the manabloc drain and at the faucets to see if there is a drop.

Sounds like water pressure/volume is the problem and not the breaker.

I am not sure about the rim holes it does wash down in a full circle not from just just one spot and spins around the bowl.

The TOILET water valve,.....it has a SCREEN in it.
Remove the water supply line at fitting and CLEAN that screen


From my 1st post
As for low water pressure on toilet..........
Turn off water supply
Remove water supply inlet to toilet water valve assembly and CLEAN inlet screen

2nd post...
Have you cleaned the water inlet valve screen?



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Old 06-28-2017, 11:15 PM   #9
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The TOILET water valve,.....it has a SCREEN in it.
Remove the water supply line at fitting and CLEAN that screen


From my 1st post
As for low water pressure on toilet..........
Turn off water supply
Remove water supply inlet to toilet water valve assembly and CLEAN inlet screen

2nd post...
Have you cleaned the water inlet valve screen?



No screen on the inlet of the toilet valve, I did remove the line and did fine a bit of grit inside the valve, I flushed that out but no better.

Yes the the water pump inlet screen has been cleaned, found a bit of plastic shavings in there but it wasn't plugged. the screen where the city water hooks up is clean as well.
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Old 06-28-2017, 11:16 PM   #10
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Water setup

https://goo.gl/photos/9DtAVydK764v7mJx8

I am expecting that these restrictions in the use of these 90 degree connectors and the use of supply lines at the start of the system is causing the low flow. but if this is how they were all built then it shouldn't be an issue.

https://goo.gl/photos/uyrVHnEwanhwKdk57
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Old 06-29-2017, 09:15 AM   #11
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No screen on toilet valve.........

S/B ---the water valve comes with a inlet screen so debris can not get into valve assembly.

Need to remove hose going to vacuum breaker AT vacuum breaker then put it in a bucket, a bottle etc and operate water valve.....think you will find it has restricted flow.
Not due to that 'supply manifold' but due to issue with toilet water valve assembly being clogged...no screen
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Old 06-29-2017, 08:02 PM   #12
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Well I am pretty convinced that it has to do with the use of the restrictive lines and 90s at the front of the system.

I did some tests, city, pump and city with pump on. Pump only 1 minute on the hot water drain filled less then half the bucket. City only was about two more inches and both about two more inches.

Doing the same test on the cold flush filled the bucket.

the difference is the hot water side goes into the tank first and then into the manifold utilizing two of these 1/2 flex lines. the cold dump goes right from the pressure side to a valve only utilizing 1/2 hard pex.

Pics of the back of the water system wall.
https://goo.gl/photos/JXkFHmbsmExsWEEF7
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Old 06-29-2017, 09:46 PM   #13
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I understand the testing....
BUT have a question.
DO you have water flow issues with faucets/showers etc.
They are also fed from that manifold ....correct?

Back to toilet.........
Remove water supply at inlet to toilet water valve.......turn on pump, use city water and see how flow is w/o going thru the toilet water valve.

Then connect water supply back up. Remove hose to vacuum breaker AT vacuum breaker and test flow thru toilet water valve.

That will either confirm or eliminate toilet water valve clogged---causing low flow to toilet.

Test the cold water flow to and then thru toilet water valve



And just FYI.......
City water supplies OR pump supplies
BOTH do not supply at same time

Pump has a pressure switch.....system line pressure has to 'drop' to that set point in order for pump to start/run
*City water pressure would have to be low enough for pump to start....if pump starts the check valve in city water inlet closes---no city water.
**City water pressure higher then pump start set point then pump doesn't turn on/run
****If you have pump on/running and then turn on city water source pump should shut down if city water pressure higher then pump stop set point OR city water check valve stays closed ---no city water flow

Typical RV pump
Shut off discharge pressure 45 psi or 55 psi
Start set point 30 psi or 40 psi
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Old 06-29-2017, 09:54 PM   #14
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I don't appear to have good water pressure anywhere but this is the first time it's been an issue. Our 5th wheel seemed to have better pressure and the pump shut off almost immediately after turning off the water. Motorhome pump runs for about 15 seconds.

I will try and flow test before and after the toilet valve to see it it has issues but it will have to wait, leaving for vacation tomorrow for a week.
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