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Old 11-25-2013, 01:58 PM   #15
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I run a 1500 watt electric space heater, plugged into a 120 v. outlet under the dash. Or....Walmart sells a small (wattage?) 12v. Heater that sits in a cup holder....might help a bit, but prob. Not enough of an improvement.

My biggest problem is cooling the cockpit during the summer months. We use a curtain behind the seats, but there's still not enough dash air to remain comfy.
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Old 11-25-2013, 08:19 PM   #16
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Open your generator area and look at the heater hoses that feed the dash heat. Will likely see a valve that controls the amount of water allowed to pass. This valve is controlled by the temp control on the dash. Max heat should open the valve fully.
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Old 11-26-2013, 12:25 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Stan&Jacquie View Post
Very interesting. Might you be able to describe where the heater is located and where on the heater the temp control valve is?
My 98 Eagle is accessed by the front hood. Not sure how yours is accessed but should be at the front firewall . Hopefully a monacoer will get in here to help.
Some are talking about curtains. Got to be careful if its that cold that you don't freeze water lines. I run the propane heaters if its that cold. I did the curtain in a old Ford van years ago in Wyoming. Had water bottles in the back freeze
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Old 11-26-2013, 07:40 AM   #18
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If it is due to your engine not getting up to temps you can cover part of your radiator.

Unless there is something wrong with the engine cooling system, there is no way the engine will not get up to proper operating temperature in the conditions we operate our motor homes. I've covered radiators many times (never on a motor home) but it's only needed when it gets really cold. -20f and colder. If the radiator is covered in warmer conditions you run the risk of damaging the engine by overheating.
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:30 AM   #19
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Also check for air leaks under the dash and around the doghouse. Both my current and previous rigs had significant drafts due to poor sealing of the cab. A can of great stuff foam made a HUGE difference in the cabin heat on our second ski trip last winter.
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:38 AM   #20
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My DP has two valves in heater hoses that run along frame rail.Have to crawl under mh to access them.
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Old 11-26-2013, 11:52 AM   #21
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Purchased 1 3/8 x 10' round pre-stained round stock at Lowes. Bought 3 sections of insulated black curtains at Walmart. Have subsequently backed sections with same black material. Hemmed curtains to fit height. Mounted behind cabinets/seats with half-round electrical conduit brackets using one screw. Keeps heat in cockpit during the winter and air-con in the heat of the summer. Also provides privacy in the evenings and climate control in the living area. An added plus is it also hides the slide outs
when closed up. Works for us.

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Old 11-26-2013, 12:53 PM   #22
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We just drove 160 miles Sunday, outside temp 26 F. Door to bedroom and bath closed off, and was at 72 F using dash heat,medium fan
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Old 11-26-2013, 02:01 PM   #23
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I second the suggestion to check the stop cocks on the engine, top and bottom. Follow the hoses back to the engine to find them. These are typical in a DP and can vibrate closed, or nearly closed, over several thousand miles. Or shops sometimes close but don't reopen them when servicing the engine. Or they can be partially closed for numerous other reasons.
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Old 11-26-2013, 02:50 PM   #24
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We just drove 160 miles Sunday, outside temp 26 F. Door to bedroom and bath closed off, and was at 72 F using dash heat,medium fan
We do the same but we live in Florida. Our dash air keeps us cool in the summer and dash heat works good in winter down to mid 20's.
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Old 11-26-2013, 06:24 PM   #25
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This is something I don't quite understand. The issue has been discussed here and in other threads.

You have a motor HOME. The operative word there is HOME. You wouldn't heat only part of your stick and mortar home, would you? So why would you even consider heating only part of your motor home?

RUN THE FURNACES! Be comfortable!
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Old 11-26-2013, 06:35 PM   #26
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This is something I don't quite understand. The issue has been discussed here and in other threads.

You have a motor HOME. The operative word there is HOME. You wouldn't heat only part of your stick and mortar home, would you? So why would you even consider heating only part of your motor home?

RUN THE FURNACES! Be comfortable!
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Old 11-26-2013, 06:53 PM   #27
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Our old buggie

We run the dash heat. surprise all our supply lines were either full of holes or tares, The defrost lines to the windshield were split on the bottom of the supply defuser. Duck tape to the rescue we also run the gennie and the thermostat set @ 65 and I can drive with just a t-shirt and shorts. (I like to be comfortable ) I have found the supply tube @ HD but still looking for the duct to be insulated. I need to find 3 inch insulation. Our duct work runs in the front just above the grille. Just like one of the defuser is under one of the living room chairs.
It almost will cook you out.
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:11 PM   #28
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This is something I don't quite understand. The issue has been discussed here and in other threads. You have a motor HOME. The operative word there is HOME. You wouldn't heat only part of your stick and mortar home, would you? So why would you even consider heating only part of your motor home? RUN THE FURNACES! Be comfortable!

Okay, but I don't use the bedroom when rolling down the road........why waste mo
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