Community Forums

John424 · 02-27-2016, 06:45 AM

I have a 2003 fleetwood revolution that the alarm (same alarm that sounds if you put it in drive and leave the air brake on) starts sounding after I go a mile or so down the road. If I stop, put it in nutral the ping stops but when returning to drive will start right back up. If I stop and put it in nutral and apply the air brake, release the brake, and start to dive again with in a few blocks the ping will start back up. Has anyone had this happen? It's driving me crazy
Thanks John

luvlabs · 02-27-2016, 06:53 AM

What do your air gauges read? If both gauges are reading 120 psi then you either have a faulty alarm or it is something else. You need to have it looked at ASAP, however.

Also check your leveling panel, a jack that is not fully retracted can give a similar sounding alarm.

jacwjames · 02-27-2016, 07:02 AM

X2, check air pressure and make sure that both your air tanks are holding air both parked and while driving. If air drops to a certain level your parking brake will automatically set, which you don't want happening while driving.

If you can't figure out what's going on take it to a truck shop.

wimberleyman · 02-27-2016, 07:17 AM

From your description it sounds like it may be your park brake alarm switch. If you have a freightliner chassis it is located on the chassis rail just in front of the drivers side duals. Drove our Cruisemaster from Texas to Colorado last summer listening to the dinging all the way. Stuffed pillows under the dash and turned up the radio to block it out. Had the part shipped to the campground in Colorado and changed it out there. Not too hard to do, you do have to crawl under the coach and reach way up to get to it. Part is about $100 from Gaffney. If I can find pictures I took I will post them.

WM

wimberleyman · 02-27-2016, 08:03 AM

Park Brake Switch threads into a manifold near the rear air tank and has a three pronged harness that plugs in. Unplug the harness and remove the old one and then install the new one. Of course be sure to completely
bleed the air down before doing this!

WM

bcbrowne · 02-27-2016, 09:57 AM

I agree with whimbleyman, had the same issue on my freightliner chassis. Brake alarm started going down highway. Got it Itro stop by resetting a little harder than I normally did. Replace it when I got home from trip. Easy fix and not expensive. Got part from tractor trailer supply co.

John424 · 02-28-2016, 06:57 AM

Thanks everybody sounds like the brake alam, the air presure stay at 120 parked or driving. I will be going crawling under today to see if I can find the switch.

psandoz · 09-25-2018, 04:54 PM

Thanks for the shared knowledge here, this sounds like my problem. 2000 Damon Ultrasport, first trip of the year coming up. Drove to have the tires checked and the alarm started 10 sec after putting in D. No alarm if brake on or off and in Neutral, brake off and in D or R alarm sounds 10 sec after brake released. I'll crawl under and see if I can find the switch as described here. Not used to working on the air system, best way to bleed down the tanks?

Thanks to all,

Phil

BUB1988 · 09-25-2018, 05:54 PM

You should have cables, or something like that, located around the front of your RV. Just pull on the cables and the air will purge from the tanks. If the cables are frozen that is a little bit more of an issue. You needs to try and spray the valves on the tanks to free up the release valve. DON'T try to free up the valves and pull on them while you are under the coach. The coach can drop down and crush you while you are under the coach.

twinboat · 09-25-2018, 05:57 PM

Just pump the brakes until there is no air left.

FIRE UP · 09-26-2018, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by psandoz

Thanks for the shared knowledge here, this sounds like my problem. 2000 Damon Ultrasport, first trip of the year coming up. Drove to have the tires checked and the alarm started 10 sec after putting in D. No alarm if brake on or off and in Neutral, brake off and in D or R alarm sounds 10 sec after brake released. I'll crawl under and see if I can find the switch as described here. Not used to working on the air system, best way to bleed down the tanks?

Thanks to all,

Phil

Phil,
Of course it's not right that you have your air alarm going on as you drive. As long as your air pressure is above the DOT specified pressure for "low air" alarm, you should not have any alarms. The normal spec for Low Air is right close to 60 psi. Above that and the alarm normally ceases to sound. Below it, it's gonna make some noise. Another spec you really should know about is the point of pressure when your parking brake will AUTOMATICALLY apply, if your pressure is dropping to.

You need normally 30-45 psi in order for your parking brake to be released and stay released. Above that psi and, it stays off. Below it, you're not going anywhere 'till the pressure is built.

Your air compressor should, if all components of the air system are working correctly, build air, from the time you start your engine and, your air system is completely drained to ZERO psi, to the point at which is known as "Cut-out" pressure, which is close to 120 psi, in right about 1-2 minutes, based on engine rpm during that time frame. The higher the engine rpm, the faster the compressor builds up the air system.

If you don't know, most RV diesel engine idle systems can be "fast idle" simply by starting the engine, then pressing the "ON" button on the cruise control. Then, push the "SET" button. Now, press the "Resume-Accel" button as many times as you see fit, to bring the engine idle rpm up. Each press of that resume button should increase the idle rpm by around 200 rpm, plus or minus. Each coach/engine is a bit different.

To stop the high idle speed, either hit the "Off" button on the cruise or, touch the brake pedal, both will bring the idle right back down to normal.

Now, as for draining the system, yes, you can simply pump the brake pedal multiple times until the air system is depleted. Or, based on what chassis you have, you can to the right front wheel and, behind it, at or near the frame, you "should" see some cable lanyards, emanating from the frame. Those lanyards, (normally three of them) lead to bleeder valves on the air tanks. Normally they're used to pull on, to move the bleeder so that you expel air to check for moisture in the system. About 99.99999% of us, NEVER see any moisture due a a well performing air dryer in the system.

Hope some of this info helps.
Scott

psandoz · 09-27-2018, 09:49 PM

Scott, appreciate the detailed message. I found the bleeder valves and the layards, bleed them down to 0 pis, and watched the pressure build back up to 120+. I couldn't find a park brake switch. And I don't believe it's air pressure, gauges show 120+, air brakes work, etc. I couldn't figure it out so I brought it in for my mechanic to have a look. If he can find the problem, I'll post here, maybe that will help someone else.

psandoz · 10-05-2018, 03:23 PM

Well, after trying to fix this myself, I brought it to a mechanic. Just as mentioned previously, it was a faulty low air switch behind the driver side rear wheel. Replace the switch and problem solved.

ELeland · 10-05-2018, 05:45 PM

Mine started doing the exact same thing yesterday and it's driving me nuts. Now I know where to look so perfect timing. I'll likely need to order the part and have it shipped. Do you have a part number?

2003 FL XC chassis

Thanks
Ed