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Old 11-05-2018, 05:15 AM   #29
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Heat pumps do not typically put out hot air, their output air is lukewarm. Heat strips will put out hot air. What you have described makes me think you have a heat strip installed in one unit, and the other unit either does not have a heat strip or the heat strip is burned out. A heat strip is a lot cheaper to replace than an entire AC unit.
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Old 11-05-2018, 06:59 AM   #30
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so I looked up these units. They appear to be low profile a-c/Heat pumps

there are two varieties, the 620515.321 is an a/c with electric heat strips and no RV.

The 630515.321 is a true heat pump with a RV (Reversing valve) AND NO HEAT STRIPS (as far as I can tell)

The paperwork I could find only shows me the wiring diagram. They do not show me the refrigerant circuit.

But some thoughts on troubleshooting your a/c

1) generally speaking if your system is low on freon, the evaporator coil (inside coil) will frost or ice up. The coil will also frost or ice up if something is blocking the outdoor coil or the filters are dirty or the blower motor has failed (easy to figure this out, if you hear the system come on but get no air flow...bad motor)

2)if the system won't turn on, go after the simple stuff first, fuses/breakers and thermostats. These are the cheap and easy things to correct. If it's a fuse or breaker you may have a short somewhere, this could get complicated fairly quickly. Thermostats are (kinda cheap) easy to replace. also, check the capacitor, also a cheap fix ( and caps are made in China and Mexico, so...)

3) If you don't understand electricity, spend the money and call a pro.

4) you can tell if an RV is working by going on the roof, remove the cover and have someone turn it on to heat, turn it off, then turn it to cooling, you should hear the RV swoosh back and forth. also you can take a small screwdriver and lay it on top of the RV coil, it should be 'magnetized'. you should feel it pull in the screwdriver in, if not the coil is bad, and a cheap fix.

5) whatever you do PLEASE do not bang on the RV, the tube is very thin, if you dent it, it won't slide back and forth and you just made your problem much worse.

Final thoughts, I think if your RV is bad or stuck, it would be more cost effective to replace the entire unit. especially if the unit is more than 10 years old. If the heat package (strips) are bad, these are fairly easy to replace and shouldn't be that expensive.
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Old 11-05-2018, 07:15 AM   #31
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[QUOTE=Dutch Master;4478578]Good day georgiann no,
First, the heat pump does not use Freon - only the A/C side uses it. Stay away from this clown - "So called RV tech."
He does not know JACK! The A/C - Heatpump combo that you have is controlled by a controller board located in the unit. Its hard to determine your root cause problem since the unit is working now. Could be a problem with communication between the 5 button thermostat, the controller board, or power. For now - "Let a sleeping dog lie" - watch it and let it run normally. If the problem arises again, get a reputable RV tech to work on it. Be cautious - as you have found out there are many "clowns" (i.e. so called RV Techs) out there that do not have the knowledge or experience even to touch a RV.
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More bad info passed around on this board. A heat pump system does, in fact, use freon! A heat pump system is an AC system with a reversing valve that moves the hot gas inside and the cold gas outside. One compressor used in both AC mode and Heat mode. In heat mode, the unit fails to provide heat when the outside temp gets below 32 degrees. If it is low on freon it is not cost effective to install service valves to add freon or try to repair a leak. Why do you think the manufacturers just replace the unit under warranty instead of sending a repair tech?
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Old 11-05-2018, 07:21 AM   #32
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We also have (used to have) three of the same Dometic heat pumps, 2004 model. No taps on them. Had to replace two of them in the last year.
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Old 11-05-2018, 07:27 AM   #33
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We also have (used to have) three of the same Dometic heat pumps, 2004 model. No taps on them. Had to replace two of them in the last year.
actually, having them last 12-13 years is pretty good considering all the vibration and pounding they take.
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Old 11-05-2018, 10:46 AM   #34
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Here's another fun fact. Heat pumps are designed to function in heat mode down to about 43-44 F. One of your pumps maybe in better shape but it sounds like they are both running within design specs.
Good Luck
They vary between brands and models as to performance in cool weather. Ours work well down to 32 and shut down at around 20
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Old 11-05-2018, 11:04 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by txcpl View Post
Heat pumps do not typically put out hot air, their output air is lukewarm. Heat strips will put out hot air. What you have described makes me think you have a heat strip installed in one unit, and the other unit either does not have a heat strip or the heat strip is burned out. A heat strip is a lot cheaper to replace than an entire AC unit.
Heat pumps can add about 30-40* to the outside air temp, or they can subtract 30-40*, it all depends on the outside air temp. My HP failed to Heat on a 90* day, and it blew some really hot air into the coach.
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Old 11-06-2018, 05:46 AM   #36
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sorry to say, in 30+ years of doing HVAC work, I have never seen a saddle valve last very long. too much vibration for a mechanical fitting to work. Brazing in a valve is the only sure way to install a valve and have it leak free.

BTW, when brazing (you can silver solder small systems like an RV rooftop unit) you MUST run nitrogen through the system while brazing or you will get oxidized particles in the system which could block small orifices. Also, you must add a filter/drier to the liquid line to further protect the compressor
Well sir I did HVAC 40+ years ago. I did everything from small window air conditioners, refrigerators, freezers, home central air units and some commercial units. In the time I did it I never had one valve fail. The valve was always a last resort for me. Maybe I used a different brand than you or maybe the quality of the valves was better. Who knows who cares. Yes, I will agree that the very best way would be to silver solder a valve in and if done right it will be leak free.

I'm just trying to provide some information here. I offered several ways to do it. Chances are 99% of the people reading this do not possess the skill level to tackle the job and are probably better off just replacing their unit.
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Old 11-06-2018, 06:27 AM   #37
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[QUOTE=Coachmen Joe;4486150]Well sir I did HVAC 40+ years ago. I did everything from small window air conditioners, refrigerators, freezers, home central air units and some commercial units. In the time I did it I never had one valve fail. The valve was always a last resort for me. Maybe I used a different brand than you or maybe the quality of the valves was better. Who knows who cares. Yes, I will agree that the very best way would be to silver solder a valve in and if done right it will be leak free.

I'm just trying to provide some information here. I offered several ways to do it. Chances are 99% of the people reading this do not possess the skill level to tackle the job and are probably better off just replacing their unit.[/QUOTE]

LOL, understood. Honestly, I WOULD NOT attempt to replace a reversing valve in an RV unit, you can get a new unit for $1000. it would cost more than that to replace the valve, LOL and, as you know, replacing a reversing valve is one of the most difficult jobs a technician can tackle. I would bet, 90% of techs nowadays don't possess the skill to braze in a valve without roasting it.

I contacted Dometic about servicing their equipment, I guess they have too many people trying to service their stuff. They require an unbelievable amount of documentation to get an account with them and they want a new account to purchase a minimum of $1500 worth of parts to get started. So, we'll see how this goes.
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Old 11-06-2018, 07:42 AM   #38
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for those that don't understand what we are talking about here, THIS is a residential reversing valve. They are very difficult to braze in without roasting it.
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