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Old 02-11-2013, 11:52 AM   #1
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Air Horn Quit Working

I have a 2002 Winnebago Discovery DL that the air horn has quit working. I know it is not a necessity but it is a lot of fun.

There is a swith on the dash that goes from regular car horn to the air horn. The car horn side works. Any suggestions on what to check would be appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:02 PM   #2
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My airhorn circuitry is protected by a fuse located in the run bay. When this fuse went south it resulted in the airhorn not working. Replaced the fuse and walla.
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:19 PM   #3
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If the fuse is O.K. check the solenoid. The solenoid catches water from the air hose and many times it seizes up. It is easy to check with a test light or meter to see if you have voltage going to the solenoid. Just have someone hit the horn button ad check the wire to the solenoid for voltage. If you have voltage to the solenoid, unplug the outgoing hose from the solenoid and see if you have airflow. (90% of the time it was the solenoid.
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:03 PM   #4
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Same thing happened to us. After checking fuse and this and that we found a wire was disconnected at the solenoid in the front of the coach. Squeezed it slightly and plugged it back on and we're in business again.
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:34 PM   #5
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I checked the fuse and it was fine. I will check the solenoid when I get home.

Thanks for the info everyone.
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:36 PM   #6
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If it is the solenoid where do I purchase a new one from?
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:45 PM   #7
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My Hadley’s quit the solenoid was good. I disconnected the city horn and could here the solenoid a little air at the Hadley’s. Removed the outlet for the solenoid, lots of air.
Up on the rooftop I did go. Removed the 2 screws from the front of the horns and the six from the rear. I could not see through them, so stuck a small dowel through them. Out came the mud dabbers nest. Reassembled, they work great now. When the MH is in storage, I now place cheap shower cap over the bells. No more blockages.
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:37 PM   #8
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Selenoid usually does not go "bad", that would be an open coil condition, and they are available, may be trick to find, truck supply or RV.

Usually loose wire, bad ground or rusted valve.

Others stated process.

I will add...DO NOT WIGGLE WIRES...

You may have intermittent problem, best to sneak up on it.

Use voltmeter, clip black lead to good ground, then measure voltage on each terminal while button pushed.

If no volts either side then bad connection on supply side.

If 12 volts on BOTH then no ground

If 12 volts on one, more than 1 volt on the other poor ground

If 12 volts on one and zero on other good ground or open coil, possible stuck plunger.

Most folks tap it, can do if you wish, or carefully tear it down to remove coil and valve assembly.

If rusted simple cleaning in order, make sure it seats well otherwise it leaks.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:14 AM   #9
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It was the wires. Both were so loose they had come off. Thanks for everyones help. Saved me a shop bill.
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