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Old 02-11-2012, 11:54 AM   #1
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Question Alaska Trip

We are headed to Alaska in May and was wondering about the full Newmar mudflap on the rear of the MH. Should I leave it on or take it off? I have read conflicting information on the posts, some say leave it on others say take it off.

I am concerned about rock chips and don't know which way to go. I am looking for guidance from folks that have driven to Alaska recently.

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Old 02-11-2012, 11:59 AM   #2
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Leave it on. If not for your own benefit, for the benefit of those following you.

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Old 02-11-2012, 12:07 PM   #3
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Road conditions are often uncertain. I would definitely leave it on.
'07 Itasca 35L/W22 FULL-TIMING
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Old 02-11-2012, 12:18 PM   #4
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If you are towing a toad, by all means leave it on......in any case, having made the trip up and back, for you and your fellow rv'ers, leave it on
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Old 02-11-2012, 04:43 PM   #5
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My thoughts would be to leave it on too, but...

I will say that on the Country Coach Yahoo User Group, several reported less problems by removing their solid rock guards. The solid guards when making contact with the road, actually kick up debris.

And on a personal experience of 'two different coaches', I feel my solid guard on my 40' Country Coach does toss more road debris/pebbles/gravel up onto the surface of my CRV toad, then our old T28 Bounder. The Bounder had a non solid guard. Yep, it did also result in loose sand and small gravel on the CRV too, but in much less amounts. (Heck, I've actually pulled out a fox tail brush to sweep off the sand/gravel from the windshield area of the CRV after reaching destination, probably a 3 to 4 times more then what I used to see from the Bounder.)

So, when we go to Alaska, not sure what I will do... I will have something to be a good fellow traveler on the roadway, just not sure yet what it will be as far as a guard.

Best of luck, have fun, be safe,
Roo II is our 04 Country Coach Allure 40'
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Old 02-11-2012, 04:52 PM   #6
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I would think that this is the best option when traveling to Alaska: Protect-a-Tow

That when coupled with solid mud flaps behind the rear tires should do a good job.
'02 Winnebago Journey DL, DSDP, 36' of fun.

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Old 02-11-2012, 04:58 PM   #7
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How low is your mudflap? If it rides 3-4-more inches above the road at ride height leave it on by all means. If yours is lower I'd suggest lifting it (via the chain links).
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Old 02-12-2012, 11:43 AM   #8
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Thanks to all who replied. I think that I will leave it on for those who travel near me. I will measure to see the height of the guard and maybe raise it a notch or two.

It always amazes me the help that Rv'ers have for Rv'ers. What a great community.
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Old 02-12-2012, 02:14 PM   #9
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I thought there had been instances where the flap drags, kicks up rocks which are then propelled into the radiator by the mh engine fan.
John McKinley
2007 Damon Daybreak 3060, Ford 16,000# Chassis,
Ford C-Max Hybrid Toad , Suzuki V Strom 1000cc
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Old 02-12-2012, 03:14 PM   #10
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Last summer's Alaska trip resulted in frontal damage to our Jeep's windshield and grill areas. We have mud flaps on both the rear duals and a full width one on the rear of the MH(correct height). We also had a Protect-A-Tow installed as well. We made the mistake of not protecting the front of the Jeep with the use of a bra and W/S protection.

With Canada's and Alaska's harsh winters, road construction/repair is a constant battle. On the damaged areas(frost heaves) they completely destroy the road surface and have to rebuild the road bed. After the repairs, they put a top layer of dirt/marrow/stone and rock and compact it with a roller...that's it. The finish compacting is accomplished by traffic and it is truly nasty. We drove some longer sections of the 'Gravel Breaks' unable to see ANYTHING behind us. At days end, we'd find pounds of stone and rock in the P-A-T. On the plus side, the frost heaves and construction are usually well marked and one better observe the warnings. Can't drive as fast as here in the lower 48 unless you want to be launched into the stratosphere.

All in all, the roads are not as bad as the horror stories one hears but travelers should slow down a bit...never know what sights you'll miss if ya don't. We had a blast! Bob
Jan and Bob

RIP 'Squeaky'
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:30 AM   #11
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Don't know about other states, but in TX if you have duals on the rear, you must have mud flaps. They cannot be more than 8 inches above the road surface.
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Old 02-13-2012, 11:12 AM   #12
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When searching the internet before , I ran across a picture of someone installing a guard underneath the motorhome to protect the radiator from rocks being thrown up from the engine, but I cannot find the article again.

Any suggestions on installing a radiator guard would be great.
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:25 PM   #13
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Been there; got the T-shirt, and the rock dings.

My first RV trip was the 10K mile trip from SE VA to AK and back. Talk about a learning curve! I have driven the Alcan and down to the Kenai Peninsula the last two years in a Class C pulling a Wrangler. I traded and will be driving my Breeze 32BR this year. The C had a brush-type guard on the rear and I still got some rock dings and this past year, a windshield chip that went full width (Yep, $250 ded.) I can almost promise you that you will hit road construction (read: destruction) areas that range anywhere from severe frost heaves with wide, deep ruts, to rolling undulations that will have your RV bucking like a bronco if you don't take them slow. There will be stretches that have been graded but not paved. Some may be very dusty or possibly very muddy if it's been raining or they water-trucked it. The worst stretches I've encountered are between Beaver Creek north to the Canada-Alaska border, from the border to Tok, from Tok to Glenallen, and from Glenallen to Palmer. You may hit a few bad stretches anywhere in BC or the Yukon. Just be sure to watch for red flags or cones on the shoulder and SLOW DOWN when you see them. Also, anytime you see lines on the road ahead which appear wavy, the surface has dips that you should slow for. There are also a number of big trucks that drive the Alcan and they don't slow down for anything but a steep hill. Whenever I meet one of them on an unpaved stretch, I pull as far to the right as I can and slow almost to a stop to minimize the damage from the rocks they sling. By the time I get to Whitehorse, I will put covers on my toad windshield and grill/headlights. No matter how much protection you use, the best thing you can do is go slow in the rough areas. In spite of some sections where you will have to drive every foot with your eyes on the road, there is much wildlife and gorgeous wilderness scenery to enjoy. Do watch for wildlife; the last thing you want to see is a moose between your headlights. Just take your time, stop for a dip at the Liard Hotsprings, and see the attractions along the way. The "Milepost" is a great pub that lets you know of road hazards, attractions, and services along the way and well worth the price. Can't wait to hit the road to AK in May!
Jim and Mary
2012 Breeze 32BR
W/2010 Wrangler Unltd Toad
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:56 PM   #14
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I have done Ak 3x, twice on a motorcycle and once in the MH....This is what I did on the MH...

I took my wife's workout mat, about 7'x3' and made of about 3/8" rubber material that is easily rolled up......I cut it to fit the windshield with about a 2" overlap all around....then I took 1" velcro and put about 8, 3-4" velcro strips around the w/s and the mat.......Takes about 30 secs to put on or take-off and in alot of bad roads has kept the w/s totally chip free......The mat is thick enough that small rocks just bounce off......Total cost: about 15.00 cause I had to buy the wife another mat (didn't tell her beforehand...seemed like a good idea at the time).....

The mat rides just fine and does not move around....

Steve and Liz
Fallbrook, Ca

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