Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-05-2012, 01:40 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2
Alternator doesn't charge coach battery

I have been charging a Coach battery and removing it afterwards to run a remote inverter, as I have no electricity in a shelter. The battery is new, and now the lead that originally ran to the coach batteries does not charge. The chassis battery lead does. I may have accidentally started the rig with NO battery hooked up to the coach battery leads. I really can't remember. I noticed that the new battery progressively took less and less of a charge, until my meter indicates no charge what so ever. Is there an overload that may have blown, or have I ruined a 130 amp alternator? I have not worked on motors in quite a while, and am not sure if the regulator, and alternator are one unit, or there is an Isolator remote mounted. I am one step out of homeless and no money to speak of. Any clues would be helpful, I'm not a complete idiot, although reading this may confirm I am. The rig was a well maintained Winn. Itasca 32, 130 amp alternator.

Rocky49
__________________

__________________
Rocky49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 01-05-2012, 02:07 PM   #2
Registered User
 
National RV Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Lake George, Mi
Posts: 385
If I'm understanding you correctly, when you run the engine you are getting something like 14+volts to the chassis battery, at the same time there is nothing at the coach battery.

If this is the case, your alternator is fine as it's putting out to the chassis battery. If your coach battery is getting nothing, that sounds like the battery interconnect switch/solenoid isn't working. Generally speaking, when an RV system "sees" 14+ volts from the alternator, it triggers that solenoid to connect both batteries together.

Assuming you have a converter/charger, do you have any access to plug into shore power? That would tell you if there were any problems in the coach side of things.

If the coach has a "Boost" switch on the dash, that will also activate the solenoid. You could activate that a few times and perhaps free the solenoid if it is froze up.
__________________

__________________
jlyon69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2012, 08:14 AM   #3
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2
alternator, battery, genset spark

JLyon,

Thank you for your insight. I am not familiar with any of the chassis schematic's, or much low voltage stuff. I am not technically ignorant, but was struck by lightning a decade ago and can't crawl around and bend my head to investigate, unless it is an emergency, which this may become. Is the solenoid you speak of simply a solenoid, to boost the chassis and coach btrys into parallel for emergency starting, or an isolator? I thought that there may be two leads off the alternator separately regulated, or I would think an isolator would be needed. I was thinking if that was the case, and I actually did run it without a battery hooked up, that that part of the charging ckt would sense the need for maximum charge continuously and either burnt the windings or blew an overload, or a separate regulator, or ??? I have no electricity, being one step out of homeless, and this will hopefully be my home. I intend to outfit it with AGM battery banks for inverters, in the future, but have NO money beyond Kerosene and food, and a little gas to charge this thing. The converter has not worked for years, and I have no 110v on the property, I don't invert from a 12v battery. You sound quite knowledgeable and I will try flipping the solenoid a couple times, but I think that's a long shot. One I will take though. I hope you keep an I on me JL. I can use your help. Oh, while I hopefully have your attention, I am old school, and old everything else, but old school mechanic from the days of points, rotors and condensers. My genset produces no spark to the plugs. Is there one Ignition/coil/spark unit that is normally the problem? It is an Onan Emerald 6.5kw.

Rocky49
__________________
Rocky49 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2012, 09:24 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Dave78Chief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,513
1) For reference, wiring diagams for your 1995 Suncruiser ICG32RQ are located here: Table of Contents

2) A Battery Isolator Solinoid (operated by the Battery Boost switch) is a 100 amp constant duty solinoid (relay; laymans terms = On/Off switch) that is used to cross connect the chassis and coach battery systems. Because it is a constant duty solinoid, you cannot replace it with a starter solinoid. A starter solinoid will burn out in short order.

You said 130 Amp alternator which only came on the Ford Chassis so, automotive diagram is on: http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/1995/115148.pdf

Do not get confused by the fact that the battery isolator and battery disconnect circuits are shown on both automotive and body wiring diagrams. There is a lot of informatioon and it's just repeated.

Physical location of those solinoids is shown on Front End Wiring Installation diagram: http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/1995/114153.pdf. Under hood in front of driver seat.

Not sure about 1995, but on later model Winnebago products, the Battery Isolator Solinoid was enegized in order to allow the engine alternator to charge the coach batteries while the engine was running.

Now for the generator:
I take it you have a 6.5 NHE model generator. Will need the full nomencalture off of the generator lable plate in order to anser you configuration question. Configuration is managed by spec number which is a part of that ID information. Differences are shown on pdf page 17 (pages 30/31) of http://www.rvtechlibrary.com/generator/OnanHandbook.pdf. Once you provide that I can point you to the manuals for the version of generator you have.

Dave
__________________
Dave in Virginia
1978 Winnebago Chieftain
Dodge M400 - 440-3
Classic Winnebago Site: http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php
Dave78Chief is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2012, 10:51 AM   #5
Registered User
 
National RV Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Lake George, Mi
Posts: 385
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky49 View Post
JLyon,

Thank you for your insight. I am not familiar with any of the chassis schematic's, or much low voltage stuff. I am not technically ignorant, but was struck by lightning a decade ago and can't crawl around and bend my head to investigate, unless it is an emergency, which this may become. Is the solenoid you speak of simply a solenoid, to boost the chassis and coach btrys into parallel for emergency starting, or an isolator?
Assuming this coach is fairly new, it should be a solenoid. Looks like the run of the mill auto solenoid. The only difference is these RV solenoids are "Continuous Duty". So if you ever had to replace one, you wouldn't want to use a starter solenoid from the auto parts store. It's only purpose is to connect the chassis and coach batteries do do the following:

1. Use both battery banks when the chassis battery is dead or low to start the MH.

2. Charge both banks with engine running/traveling.

3. Start the generator if the coach batteries are weak or bad.

Assuming this is a class A, the BCC (Battery Control Center) is accessed from an outside bay. It will be VERY close to the batteries. This is where the 12v distribution/circuit panel, fuses, solenoid(s), battery disconnect relay, etc are located. If you can trace the + side of the chassis battery to the BCC, it will end at the solenoid, which may be hidden.

Quote:
I thought that there may be two leads off the alternator separately regulated, or I would think an isolator would be needed. I was thinking if that was the case, and I actually did run it without a battery hooked up, that that part of the charging ckt would sense the need for maximum charge continuously and either burnt the windings or blew an overload, or a separate regulator, or ???
Before we go much further, I'm still working in the dark as I have no idea what year Winnie you have...I also know nothing specific about them. You may get better/quicker help posting this problem in the Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum. That said, you very well could be right. I've just never heard of this type of setup and sounds to me you would need a special alternator. I have read a thread pertaining to a pre-1990, (perhaps older) setup where a battery isolator was used. If memory serves, a solenoid was still incorporated some how, just don't remember. About all I can say at this point is, if you do have a Boost Switch, you have a solenoid.

Quote:
I have no electricity, being one step out of homeless, and this will hopefully be my home. I intend to outfit it with AGM battery banks for inverters, in the future, but have NO money beyond Kerosene and food, and a little gas to charge this thing. The converter has not worked for years, and I have no 110v on the property, I don't invert from a 12v battery.
Since you're in the situation you're in, I'll suggest a bubble gum and bailing wire fix to get you by for now. Make sure the coach battery(s) are properly grounded. Get yourself a 10 gauge (8 is better) copper wire and connect the +connections of the chassis and coach batteries. This will charge both banks when the engine is running.
Quote:
You sound quite knowledgeable and I will try flipping the solenoid a couple times, but I think that's a long shot. One I will take though. I hope you keep an I on me JL. I can use your help. Oh, while I hopefully have your attention, I am old school, and old everything else, but old school mechanic from the days of points, rotors and condensers. My genset produces no spark to the plugs. Is there one Ignition/coil/spark unit that is normally the problem? It is an Onan Emerald 6.5kw.

The boost switch should be a rocker switch that will not stay engaged unless it's held down. Turn on the ignition, operate the switch a few times to see if you can hear it click. If you do, figure a way to keep it energized, or have someone else hold it down while you check the coach battery to see if it's getting juice now.

Only had an Onan a few years in my old Class C. Never had any trouble with it so never did much research on it. I would first check the coil and any fuses/circuit breakers. After that, I would suspect the ECM. Get the model number and go here: Cummins Onan They have manual, Service and Trouble Shooting guides for their various models.
__________________
jlyon69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2012, 12:22 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Dave78Chief's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,513
The location and implementation for your Suncruiser coach for most of the "generic" information jlyon69 spoke to is addressed in my post (#4) above. The "BBC" as he reffered to it is the the box forward of the drivers seat. The batteries are in the passenger side step well.

No need to go to that Cummins Link, they do not even list your generator any more. They want you to buy a new generator rather than fix old. List your model number like I said in post 4 and I should be able to get you the manuals.
__________________

__________________
Dave in Virginia
1978 Winnebago Chieftain
Dodge M400 - 440-3
Classic Winnebago Site: http://www.classicwinnebagos.com/forum/index.php
Dave78Chief is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
alternator, battery



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Coach Battery goes dead on drive Go Dawgs Class A Motorhome Discussions 1 06-13-2011 08:05 PM
battery charge solar question apone Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 1 05-27-2011 07:11 PM
Coach battery question! Help Please! Lkraus3 Vintage RV's 9 02-14-2011 10:43 AM
Coach dual battery set wiring help scoutmstr Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 7 03-22-2010 06:21 PM
Dead Starting Battery on new Access Coach ctcamper Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 11 09-10-2007 03:36 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:17 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.