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Old 08-02-2014, 04:44 PM   #29
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Ernie, do you agree with using the Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty over the OSB instead of putting down plywood? Thanks!
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:03 PM   #30
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Absolutely
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:04 PM   #31
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Where can you buy the commercial vinyl stair tread? I tried lowes and Home Depot with no luck. Any body have a source? I looks to be about $1.50 - $2.00 per foot.
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:08 PM   #32
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Roppe commercial stair treads cannot be found at Lowes or Home Depot. A full service flooring retail store would have to order them for their distributor. They are not 1-2 bucks a foot but closer to $10. Not cheap- but quality is NOT cheap. Menards had some a few years ago when I was in Wisconsin.
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:09 PM   #33
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Absolutely

Do you think I would be able to apply the putty, never having done it before?
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:29 PM   #34
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This thread has great interest to me. We are doing our floor this winter. We being finding someone else to do it but knowing the right questions! Great info so far.
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:50 PM   #35
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There are ways of adhering flooring to osb that will work. The biggest advantage of using underlayment is in the future if you want or need to replace the flooring you can remove the underpayment with flooring attached. With a direct attachment removing old flooring might be difficult. I would avoid gluing the underlayment for that same reason, leave 1/8th inch expansion don't force fit and use plenty of ring nails like every three or four inches on edges and every six inches in centers of the sheets. Sounds like your installer knows what he's doing just may need to use more fasteners than normal because of possible movement that's not present in normal home installations. I think either way will work just fine. When you get it finished we like pictures.
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Old 08-02-2014, 06:11 PM   #36
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Quote:
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Do you think I would be able to apply the putty, never having done it before?
yes, get a broad knife about 6 inches wide and mix the putty in a gallon pail. Fill the container with about 3-4 inches of powder and then add some water. Mix it to a flowable paste- not too stiff, and not too watery.
If you have large gouges, then a repeat application of the patch will be warranted.
If you choose to do as the previous poster: make sure that those nails are countersunk and then patch over them.
If I was to add underlayment and with my 43 years experience, adhering and screwing the underlayment is the only acceptable method.
AND- you can either do what I suggest, or not. Your mileage will vary
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Old 08-02-2014, 06:34 PM   #37
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It sounds like the water putty would be my best bet, but I'll discuss this with the installer. Thanks everyone!
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Old 08-03-2014, 01:30 PM   #38
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It sounds like the water putty would be my best bet, but I'll discuss this with the installer. Thanks everyone!
When I was considering putting down an underlayment. The installer cautioned that the screws or ring nails could protrude through the OSB into the basement. I didn't care for that.

Although I didn't do it myself, I watched the installer carefully. He applied the water putty just as Ernie explained. He basically poured the pail of putty onto the floor and quickly troweled it to smooth the floor.

I forgot that he rough sanded the floor the next day, and applied a second coating of the water putty. Then, the day after that he final sanded the floor and installed the vinyl floor.

The other thing to consider is the height of the floor. My coach doesn't have any slides. By removing the ceramic tiles and the carpet and installing vinyl flooring we gained a little floor to ceiling height. With slides, you may want to put down the appropriate thickness of underlayment to make the finished floor the right height for the slides.



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Old 08-13-2014, 05:21 PM   #39
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Well, I started on my flooring project today! First, I cut the carpet behind the driver and passenger seats and removed it back to where it joined the ceramic tile in the kitchen & bath. That part was easy, only took me maybe an hour. Most of that time was spent pulling the staples out of the floor that had been used to staple the carpet and cushion.

I was all excited about how easy this was going to be, then I started removing the ceramic tile. WRONG! I used an old 1 1/2" wood chisel and a hammer to pry up the tile, and believe me, that stuff was stuck! The tile blocks were about 6-8" square, and I had to pry them up is small pieces. Even though I wore knee pads, I found out right quick that my old back would never survive this ordeal! Finally I thought about sitting on a small footstool and that made a huge difference! I got quite a bit done today, but I figure it's gonna take me another 6 hours to finish removing the ceramic tile. I still have to get the carpet up in the bedroom but that won't take long. The flooring guy is supposed to be here next Wednesday to start the installation.

I have one remaining question. I am going to put down the water putty to glue the tile to, instead of putting down plywood. Ernie recommended the Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty, which I can get at Lowes, but they only have it in a 4 lb. container, and it seems to me that it would take several of those. They also have a Dap floor leveling compound in a larger bag and I wondered if this would work as well as the Durhams. Has anyone used this? I have sent a PM to Ernie about this but he must be busy on an installation as I haven't heard from him yet.

Thanks again for all your help!
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Old 08-13-2014, 05:40 PM   #40
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Joe- I'm back. My close friend had his pacemaker go off on him 14 times today and they had to take him to ER. Fortunately, he is doing well.
Back to your job: The OSB in your coach may look flat. When I installed some vinyl planks in a coach you can see the undulations in the floor. With any thin material, and in any installation location, telegraphing is obvious when you look from a dark area to the light.
There are 2 ways to install new product. You can install underlayment. It must be screwed and adhered and the seams and countersunk screws must be patched.
Or you can use the Durhams Water putty. If you mix it like pancake batter and not too much water, it will NOT swell the OSB.
Installers know about residential and commercial areas. They have to think outside the box to have their skills used in a coach. They have to think how the slides articulate, furniture placement, etc.
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Old 08-13-2014, 06:27 PM   #41
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Joe- I'm back. My close friend had his pacemaker go off on him 14 times today and they had to take him to ER. Fortunately, he is doing well.
Back to your job: The OSB in your coach may look flat. When I installed some vinyl planks in a coach you can see the undulations in the floor. With any thin material, and in any installation location, telegraphing is obvious when you look from a dark area to the light.
There are 2 ways to install new product. You can install underlayment. It must be screwed and adhered and the seams and countersunk screws must be patched.
Or you can use the Durhams Water putty. If you mix it like pancake batter and not too much water, it will NOT swell the OSB.
Installers know about residential and commercial areas. They have to think outside the box to have their skills used in a coach. They have to think how the slides articulate, furniture placement, etc.

Thanks Ernie! Should I stick with the Durhams product or will the Dap leveling compound do the same thing? The Durhams will me much more expensive because they don't carry it in larger containers, but I don't mind spending the money if you think it's better.

I really appreciate your expert advice! BTW, after working on getting the ceramic tile up today, I now fully understand why you said that you would not touch a job like this for less than $1200 (as I remember the figure) !
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Old 08-13-2014, 06:33 PM   #42
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I haven't used the Dap. If that is gypsum based, avoid it.
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