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Old 08-15-2014, 05:39 PM   #57
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Ernie, is the purpose of the urethane to act as a vapor barrier, bonding agent, or something else?
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Old 08-15-2014, 05:49 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-PHartley View Post
Ernie, is the purpose of the urethane to act as a vapor barrier, bonding agent, or something else?
It is the best adhesive. NOT water based. It does not dry out and crystallize and let go. It cures with the moisture in the air.
With our coaches a vapor barrier should not come into the equation.
Vapor barrier is for residential and commercial installations where over a slab there may be hydrostatic pressure from below grade.
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Old 08-16-2014, 10:31 AM   #59
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Ok thank you Ernie, will do. I only bought two tubes of liquid nails for subfloors yesterday, but that didn't go very far so I'll be going back for a case.

I was surprised to find that none of the seams (as see in my previous post) we're screwed at all. Just glued which after 30years finally let go.
I will be gluing and screwing all the seams though. But there are some long 3" machine screws throughout the floor and away from all the seams.

I filled in the area with the dark wood as 3'x20" seemed a little far span for 3/8 plywood.
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Old 08-16-2014, 05:22 PM   #60
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that is one of the earliest vacubond methods of construction. After 30 years, there has been major strides in construction methods- plus adhesive
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Old 08-16-2014, 09:24 PM   #61
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Just my luck, haha! Yea lots of foam filled voids. Not to mention the anti freeze plumbing running at plywood height which I worked on today. Fun stuff! I'll post a few pics of that mess.

So it looks like the best place to start will be the stair moulding? Do you tape it off so you're not trampling over it during the install?

You said you urethane the boards instead of the floor? Or both?

I have a lab healer mix, looks like a mini black lab. Any preference on specific manufacture or hardness rating?

Thanks again Ernie, cheers!
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Old 08-17-2014, 07:23 AM   #62
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Those eyes on that baby--
I start at the entry. I butt the factory edges to factory edges. I don't tape over the stair nose, just consciously don't step on it till it cures. I just trowel the back of the boards. The reason there, if you spread the floor and the adhesive flash dries, and if you have a problem with fitting a board- that dried adhesive is NOT forgiving, at all and everything will be stuck when you place a board in it- and you won't be able to move them.
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Old 08-17-2014, 10:14 AM   #63
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Yea she's a cute little pup, little over a year now and still full of puppy energy.

Ok that makes sense Ernie, I'm hoping to start laying tue or wed. Thanks again
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Old 08-17-2014, 10:13 PM   #64
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I have another question Ernie, where can I send you some beer??? Or post a donations link please, the postage will get you twice the beer.

I really will, but my other question is, is it better to use Durham's over the seams and countersunk screws or construction adhesive?

Another 4x8 sheet and 6 more tubes, and I'll be ready to lay some real wood. Ha!
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Old 08-18-2014, 06:03 AM   #65
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If you are installing engineered wood, unless the seams in your subfloor are not flat, you don't need the patch. If you are installing vinyl planks, yes you do need to fill the screw divots and seams.
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Old 08-18-2014, 09:21 AM   #66
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Alright, I am installing engineered wood so one less to do I guess.
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Old 08-18-2014, 11:47 AM   #67
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Last question Ernie, Is the engineered wood safe to install in the bathroom?
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Old 08-18-2014, 01:11 PM   #68
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YES- do it in a bunch of coaches, including ours
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Old 08-18-2014, 01:26 PM   #69
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Perfect! Thanks
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Old 08-18-2014, 04:00 PM   #70
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Ernie does anyone ask to re-install carpet anymore?
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