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Old 11-06-2015, 04:52 AM   #15
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Listen to Ernie, He's done many, and he is a pro and has many years of doing it under his belt. I have more years on him, but I have listened to his replies often and he is spot on.
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Old 11-06-2015, 06:05 AM   #16
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Mr Navigator, you have made a wise decision
OSB is not a better choice than plywood.
There is a product out called carpet shims. This is essentially a board, 4 feet in length. The width is 3/8- or 1/2 inch and tapers to zero over the width of the the board. I use this when a client wants to keep an original hard surface.
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Old 11-06-2015, 01:21 PM   #17
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Another reason I would not glue any wood or laminate flooring is if a piece gets damaged, I can take mine apart like a jig-saw puzzle and replace it. If you glue it down good luck replacing a damaged piece.
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Old 11-07-2015, 08:36 AM   #18
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Another strayed question
Has anyone used the vinyl laminate flooring? It looks like wood and snaps together like laminate, My concerns are that the laminate in the S&B swelled when it got wet and any laminate with slide outs? thanks
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Old 11-07-2015, 10:08 AM   #19
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In our last coach I installed Pergoe flooring. I floated it as well. The problem was when it got wet it swelled at the seams and little pieces of the groove chipped off. Wouldn't use it again.

The glued down flooring is really permanent. Ours looks like a real wood floor and is darn near impervious to damage.
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Old 11-08-2015, 12:19 AM   #20
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I tried to lay down some flooring today and what a fail that was! I'm not sure what the heck I'm doing wrong or maybe the wrong product. I spent hours and sore knees and elbows tearing out carpet and pulling hundreds of staples.
I bought some Millstead 3/8 engineered flooring from HD that the box said could be floating or glued down. The boards would not lay flat and either pulled up the previous run or the most recent run. Adhesive all over places it shouldn't be.
I don't think I have the patience for this cr@p.
I pulled up the 3 runs I had put down and threw them out the door.
I'm sure some of you will say "i told you so" but I still don't want a floating floor.
I'm thinking of construction adhesive in a tube. Shoot a wavy bead on the flooring board and then use an air staple gun to hold it down.
What do ya'll think?



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Old 11-08-2015, 06:25 AM   #21
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Here is the solution: install with URETHANE adhesive- HD has it. Use the proper notch trowel. Install 3 widths of boards- I butter the back of the boards vs floor- less mess. Place the boards together- make sure the lines are straight- and weight it down for about 5 hours. This will allow adhesive to set and then the original boards will be solid on the floor and you can start installing. I usually lay out about 8 feet in the initial run. Laquer thinner is the solvent you need. and--patience
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Old 11-08-2015, 08:11 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ernie Ekberg View Post
Here is the solution: install with URETHANE adhesive- HD has it. Use the proper notch trowel. Install 3 widths of boards- I butter the back of the boards vs floor- less mess. Place the boards together- make sure the lines are straight- and weight it down for about 5 hours. This will allow adhesive to set and then the original boards will be solid on the floor and you can start installing. I usually lay out about 8 feet in the initial run. Laquer thinner is the solvent you need. and--patience

I would have to check to be sure of the number but I think it is Roberts 1407. I used the trowel specified on the bucket. I think the coverage was right because no adhesive was pushing out from under and when I picked the boards up, there were no bare spots.



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Old 11-08-2015, 05:04 PM   #23
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I get adhesive ooze, also. I just let it set up and scrape it in the morning.
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Old 11-08-2015, 07:58 PM   #24
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We bought vinyl planking from Lumber Liquidators and it went down very easily. Home Depot and Lowes has a similar products which may be also work well. We went with Lumber Liquidators because it looks like stone and not wood.
The only problem I have is that I let the floor float a little to much and I have gaps in a few spots. I am going to take out the front seats and redo some of the seams and tack it down a little. Our RV is a 39' DP and it to took about 3 days to yank everything out and lay the new floor. Very easy to keep clean with dogs and grandkids.
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Old 11-08-2015, 10:05 PM   #25
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I really appreciate everyone taking the time to post. I won't be able to do anything again until mid-week due to work but I will update.


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Old 11-27-2015, 07:48 PM   #26
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I finished the bedroom flooring about a week ago but I'm just now getting around to posting here again.
My original question was about screwing down plywood to raise the level of the floor to match the bathroom tile.
I decided not to do that so I just used a transition piece or whatever it's called. The only downside is the barrier to sweeping dirt and dust on out to the front.
My first attempt using floor adhesive was not pleasurable and I know I would not have been happy with the results so I tried a different approach that worked much better for me and so far I am satisfied with the results.
I used urethane indoor/outdoor construction adhesive in a tube. I cut the tube tips so as to make a fairly large bead and put a bead all the way around each board about one inch in from the edge and also a bead down the middle.
I set each board and pressed down good and then used an air stapler to staple the tongue down.
My next step is to pull the carpet and the wood flooring in the kitchen/living area.
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Old 11-27-2015, 08:00 PM   #27
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looks great- and no tacky gold metal
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Old 11-27-2015, 09:20 PM   #28
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Quote:
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looks great- and no tacky gold metal

Yes Mr. Ekberg,
We changed out all the knobs, hinges, towel bars, and light fixtures a while back! We still have the cheesy brass colored shower enclosure frame because the cost of a new Basco unit is $1200+. I might try a less expensive enclosure but I haven't decided yet. There is always something to do but the the money only goes so far. We like to spend at least a little on diesel and campgrounds.
It means alot to me to hear from a pro like yourself that it looks OK. The doorway was a real booger with the rounded trim and the bolt to hold the door open. I used a coping saw and then cheated with some tan caulk. It's good enough for us and much better than the carpet. They used some high quality carpet and it was in great shape but the color was outdated and it was hard to keep clean.


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