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Old 12-01-2013, 09:53 PM   #1
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Thumbs down Another vinyl floor install

OK folks .... I've read virtually every thread on installing a wood/vinyl floor in a motor home. However, there seems to be two subjects rarely (if at all) addressed.

1. How did you prep the existing sub floor so imperfections wouldn't "print" through the vinyl? I just began my remodel when I ran into a snag. After removing the carpet and pad from my slide I noticed the joint between two pieces of particle board sub floor do not fit flush. And some joints to the edging aren't flush, too. This appears due to some warping in the particle board, not so much from moisture but due more likely to the very hot dry climate here in southern Arizona. How does one deal with this problem? Belt sanding the joints? Some form of leveling compound (although I can't see this helping very much) Has anyone ever used a "felt" underlayment with Allure vinyl planks? It shouldn't add to the installed thickness very much and might absorb and hide some of the minor imperfections in the sub floor?

2. And what about the lip of older slides that aren't flush to the main floor. Meaning those older slides that leave a step up to the slide floor. How do you address this? I can not find any molding the covers the outside corner that is thin enough to mate with the vinyl planks. Maybe an aluminum carpet strip?

Any ideas will really be appreciated as I'm kinda stuck at this point and don't want to head off into the wrong tangent.

Thanks for your thoughts in advance!!

John

Remodelling a 2001 Damen Intruder 369.
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Old 12-01-2013, 10:14 PM   #2
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I haven't done mine yet .But I think I would sand it down .
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Old 12-01-2013, 10:43 PM   #3
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pretty easy fix. Get a Bag of self leveling compound. You should be able to find one that has good flex capabilities. If one side or the other is more than a 1/8 of inch higher or lower then sand down first.
Make sure you have got all staple out and any fasteners that hold the flooring are counter sunk.

Then mix a small ammount as to directions. with a flat trowell held at about 45% angle, skim coat the entire floor. You may have to do more than one application.

After you have completed the entire floor, and are satisfied it is level, using a 4 inch wide razor blade type scraper, remove any trowell marks. You can use a vibrating sander to ensure it is a smooth as a table top. make sure all dust is gone and then
proceed with your vinyl install.

Hope that helps. good luck. and when your done post some pics.
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:59 AM   #4
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Wood filler and sandpaper once it has dried.
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:07 PM   #5
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Floor

I install allure about 5 years ago. I did not remove my slide carpet as the couch cover it. My floor was in good sharp. As allure floats I don't see any issue with felt paper or even the foam they use for hardwood floors.
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Old 12-02-2013, 07:56 PM   #6
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If you have not purchased the vinyl flooring yet, I would strongly encourage you to buy vinyl floor planks. These are virtually indestructible, easy to install, and the subfloor below will not telescope through, so less floor prep is required. Have installed these on numerous projects, and so far have had great results. The price per sq ft is very good, around $1/sqft for material and almost idiot proof installation. Most come with a 10 year wear warranty, we use them in commercial applications all the time. Feel free to PM me if you need any info.
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Old 12-03-2013, 05:43 PM   #7
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If you have not purchased the vinyl flooring yet, I would strongly encourage you to buy vinyl floor planks. These are virtually indestructible, easy to install, and the subfloor below will not telescope through, so less floor prep is required. Have installed these on numerous projects, and so far have had great results. The price per sq ft is very good, around $1/sqft for material and almost idiot proof installation. Most come with a 10 year wear warranty, we use them in commercial applications all the time. Feel free to PM me if you need any info.

Red, I'm confused, or maybe I wasn't clear in the beginning ... I plan on using the Allure vinyl planks. I am leaning to the self stick version as I want to keep added weight to a minimum. However, from what I've read, these will "print." Are you suggesting the click/lock variety instead of the self stick? (Allure ultra) I know they are a little thicker but wonder if they are solid enough not to print.

Still haven't seen and ideas on the slide's lip .... any takers?

John
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Old 12-03-2013, 06:32 PM   #8
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Old Sarge, there is a flooring plank out there that is free laid and completely waterproof. A friend of mine owns a flooring store and he showed it to me. He is also an RV'er. Go to Greenville Flooring Installation & Sales | Full Service Flooring, give them a call and ask for Tim. Tell him Bob from Jacksonville told you to call and you want to know about the RV flooring, he will know what you are talking about. Actually his number is 252-756-0639. Good luck
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Old 12-04-2013, 07:27 AM   #9
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Red, I'm confused, or maybe I wasn't clear in the beginning ... I plan on using the Allure vinyl planks. I am leaning to the self stick version as I want to keep added weight to a minimum. However, from what I've read, these will "print." Are you suggesting the click/lock variety instead of the self stick? (Allure ultra) I know they are a little thicker but wonder if they are solid enough not to print.

Still haven't seen and ideas on the slide's lip .... any takers?

John
There is a thin veneer that you can stain to match most wood styles. My father in law used it for countertop edges. Cutting a perfect straight line to size it to a long slide might be tough without a machine of some sort of course.

Other than that, you can cut the planks as thin as you want and use a strong adhesive to stick them to the slide lip.

Depending on how thin that lip is, you could also go the route of a small quarter round or other wood trim painted to a complimentary color.
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Old 12-04-2013, 08:02 AM   #10
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It sounds like you might mean some type of plank/laminate flooring.

I'd recommend laminate flooring made from ABS and it's 100% waterproof. I installed some in our old TT and it was only 1/8" thick and didn't cause buildup thickness problems. It's interlocking and goes down just like regular laminate. No need to worry about subfloor imperfections unless it's really bad. Looked totally awesome. If you do end up considering it, research the brands. I read that the one HD had a couple of years ago had issues with the joints coming apart sometimes plus it was a lot thicker than 1/8".
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:49 AM   #11
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Here is what I am referring to, its 1/16" in thickness.




You can't buy this stuff at any of the box stores, have to buy from a flooring store. Basically, you spread the glue, let it dry a bit to get tacky, then lay the planks in place, there is not interlocking, they just butt up to each other. Turn up the the heat once done to allow the vinyl to lay down good and flat and bond well with the glue. Done!
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:52 AM   #12
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Forgot, and you can kind of see it in the last picture, these planks have a very hard plastic back to the them, its the black strip in the photo. This black strip is very rigid, which acts as a buffer to keep the sub-floor from telescoping through the softer vinyl top.
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Old 12-04-2013, 07:54 PM   #13
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I'm pretty sure that a glue-down floor is the wrong way to go. Sheet flooring in an RV is stapled around the perimeter and not glued. I think for one thing you may run into temperature extreme problems that you won't see in a house. Does the manufacturer warranty it for use in an RV?
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Old 12-05-2013, 06:55 AM   #14
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I'm pretty sure that a glue-down floor is the wrong way to go. Sheet flooring in an RV is stapled around the perimeter and not glued. I think for one thing you may run into temperature extreme problems that you won't see in a house. Does the manufacturer warranty it for use in an RV?
x2. I'm not saying that the guy doesn't know what he is talking about and that it wouldn't work but I would (and have) put down a full floating floor. The interlocking allure (Not click lock) is what I used and it was great. Sometimes you do have to ad some extra adhesive between planks if they sit on a larger bump or transition.
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