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Old 02-27-2014, 11:04 PM   #15
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Jim, why do you think I would be dissatisfied with the FRP? Looks? I'm pretty sure we would like the bright white ceiling, and a surface that could be easily cleaned. Not arguing--just value your opinions.

BTW, I was planning to install the FRP over the Ozite. I've got my doubts about being able to glue any kind of vinyl to the Ozite, especially if the Ozite's adhesive is turning loose in places. If I wanted to apply vinyl to the ceiling, I think I would have to fasten the vinyl to FRP or to Masonite, and fasten that assembly to the ceiling. I don't think there is any way to fasten a soft, flexible material to the Ozite.

Van W 2000 Dynasty 36 pulling one Harley
Eastern NC
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Old 02-27-2014, 11:34 PM   #16
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Akeyzoo, that idea has some merit, but in my case, I would have to remove the Ozite, which would STILL require lowering the cabinets to remove the existing Ozite. If I just tried to trim it close to the cabinets, I think that would be messy, and would still require some sort of molding to hide the joint.

I do think the basic idea of fastening thick, heavy, cushioned vinyl directly to the plywood is workable. Yes, it would take a lot of work to be sure the plywood was smooth, and that would all be overhead work--kinda tough on my old joints.

My original question was if anyone had ever removed, or loosened the cabinets in a Monaco, or some other coach with sturdy cabinets very rigidly attached to the coach. I'm still hoping to hear from someone who has done that. If I can easily loosen and lower those cabinets, the job of installing FRP or any other kind of semi-rigid material would be much easier. If someone doesn't chime in about that, I'll just try loosening and dropping one when we get back from Albany and Perry.

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Eastern NC
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Old 02-28-2014, 10:18 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanwill View Post
.....

My original question was if anyone had ever removed, or loosened the cabinets in a Monaco, or some other coach with sturdy cabinets very rigidly attached to the coach. I'm still hoping to hear from someone who has done that. If I can easily loosen and lower those cabinets, the job of installing FRP or any other kind of semi-rigid material would be much easier. If someone doesn't chime in about that, I'll just try loosening and dropping one when we get back from Albany and Perry.

Van W. 2000 Dynasty 36
Eastern NC
Van,

To answer your original question. I have done this. I removed one cabinet and discarded it. I am in process of (this means I might get around to it someday) removing the cabinet that used to house the TV in the bedroom to modify the cabinet and reinstall it.

The inside walls and floor of the upper cupboards are press in walls that hide the structure of the cupboards. Open an upper cupboard door. Put your hand on the floor of the cabinet, another hand on the outside bottom of the cabinet. Notice that your two hands are a great distance apart. Using a thin pry bar, or screwdriver, or whatever you can make that works, get the floor lifted out of that cabinet as gently as possible in an effort to not damage it. The same holds true for the sidewalls.

The ceiling of the cupboard usually does not have a false ceiling. Normally, the ceiling ozite is visible inside the cupboard. However, the front of the cabinet is fastened to a 1" board that is screwed onto the ceiling. A false cover strip will probably be fastened on that 1" board so that you cannot find the screws. Remove that cover, and you'll see the screws. Once you negotiate those walls out of the cupboard, it becomes very obvious how to loosen the cupboards.

The screws are usually 1 1/2" or 2" (I can't remember which) metal screws that fasten securely into the steel roof and wall structural members. The screws should have a head that allows you to use a Phillips or a Robertson 2 (#2 Square) screwdriver. I favor using the Robertson 2 screwdriver on these screws.

Hope this helps.

Jim
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Old 02-28-2014, 12:23 PM   #18
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I have to redo mine also. I am going to go the route you are going with the white sheeting. It has cheap thin screen molding covering the seams. I read on another post he/she was going to use the White Board material (that you can write on,) should clean easily. Can/should I lay right over wallpaper or take it off? I bought a little heavier screen molding, its a little wider also and it has a design en-scribed on it. I am just going to hit it with a couple shots of clear. Attach it (molding) with 1/4 inch tacks
And use Contact Cement on the white board
Notice Pull down Bed
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Old 02-28-2014, 01:06 PM   #19
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I helped put a ceiling in a old camper about fifteen plus years ago. We weren't too fussy with it as we were using it for a hunting cabin so we just put luan on the ceiling and painted it. But for trim around the edges we used a heavy upholstery cord that we purchased at a local upholstery shop it worked real well just stapled it up and was easy to go around any radius or corner, it can be found in a lot of colors and fabrics so matching it up should be easy. It looked like the trim around the top of window valences In some coaches and was about a half inch in diameter.
Good luck
I'd like to see pictures when it's done along with the rest of the details.
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:39 PM   #20
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re: you post #8 regarding the joints between the panels. A friend's Essex coach has strip LED lights between each panel for soft/mood lighting. It's designed so sections may be switched off/on, instead of the entire living/kitchen area on one switch. I don't know if hiding joints was a reason for the strip lighting or what.
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Old 03-01-2014, 08:50 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanwill View Post
Jim, why do you think I would be dissatisfied with the FRP? Looks? I'm pretty sure we would like the bright white ceiling, and a surface that could be easily cleaned. Not arguing--just value your opinions.

BTW, I was planning to install the FRP over the Ozite. I've got my doubts about being able to glue any kind of vinyl to the Ozite, especially if the Ozite's adhesive is turning loose in places. If I wanted to apply vinyl to the ceiling, I think I would have to fasten the vinyl to FRP or to Masonite, and fasten that assembly to the ceiling. I don't think there is any way to fasten a soft, flexible material to the Ozite.

Van W 2000 Dynasty 36 pulling one Harley
Eastern NC
I had actually said that without thinking. When I thought about it for a while, why wouldn't it look great? It sure would be easy to clean, and it would be nice and white.

I'm pretty sure that Lowes (and whoever else stocks this stuff), also has joiners connecting the sheets together. I would bet that they would also have end caps to put on the ends of the sheets where they butt up to things like cabinets. I think they also have white plastic screw covers to use on any screws used.

Van, you might laugh at this. I used these sheets for the rear wheel well material. I used them backwards, so the smooth side faces the tires. Our coach is kind of the same colors as yours. The wheel wells look OK in off white.

Jim
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Old 03-01-2014, 09:37 PM   #22
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Van

You can get decorative FRP as well as get it in smooth finish in various colors. Go on Marlite website and you can some examples. A building supplier should be able to order you some. I use the colored smooth finish FRP on some construction projects in Vegas casinos. I think it would look better than the bumpy stuff at the big box stores.
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Old 03-01-2014, 11:55 PM   #23
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Well, Jim & Craig, I guess it's time to unfasten some cabinets! Bet your white wheel wells look Kool, Jim. And I do want my ceiling stark white.

Van W 2000 Dynasty 36 pulling one Harley
Eastern NC
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Old 03-02-2014, 01:17 PM   #24
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Make plenty of pictures

I got the same stuff in my coach, it just hasn't started falling yet
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Old 03-02-2014, 11:20 PM   #25
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Van, I was just doing some thinking, which sometimes can be a dangerous thing. But here goes.

You might be able to do this by loosening or removing the screws that hold the front of the upper cabinets to the ceiling. That may be enough to be able to gently pry the front of the cabinets down. After all, they only have to go down 1/16" or so.

Just a thought.

Jim
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