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Old 04-25-2011, 12:52 PM   #15
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Perry, there is no way to put your finger down there are touch the level float switch on these models. The original switch is plastic so I would be awful careful of breaking it by putting anything down there.

My Low Temp Cutoff switch is always on and like I said before that is normal on my model.

My concern would be that the boiler tank really is low on anti-freeze and that is why the light is really on. You should open up the radiator cap on the top of the unit and see if it is full or not. If not full then pour in a 50/50 mix of boiler anti-freeze. I think that when I opened mine I had all the thermostats calling for heat so all the ciculating pumps were running and the anti-freeze was up in all the lines then I filled it to the top.

The hot water faucets being on or off makes no difference because the boiler is heated and held to a fixed temp for both the hot water and the heaters.
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Old 04-25-2011, 01:18 PM   #16
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Guys, thanks for all the good suggestions. I did put my finger in after filling it with a 50/50 solution and the liquid was within an inch of the bottom of the neck. I did have to put a hose in and fill it via a funnel on the end of the hose, and as per Mike's concern, I may have broken the float if it is that fragile - I didn't even consider that you could break something that way.

I used 1/2 inch clear plastic tubing and shoved about 5 inches of it down the neck to fill it.

Now since the boiler and the filler neck are about 2 feet back inside the belly of the coach and there is only about 4 inches of clearance, there is no way to look down inside to see if it is broken. What is the easiest way to tell if the float is broken and how to you replace it?
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Old 04-25-2011, 01:42 PM   #17
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Use a mirror and a flashlight. If it's broke call Hydro Hot and they can tell you if it's repairable or if you have to buy another tank.
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Old 04-25-2011, 01:47 PM   #18
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You can bypass the float level switch and see if that fixes the problem and the light goes out. Just pull the two wires off the float switch and join them together and tape them up. If the light goes out and the diesel furnace fires up then you need to spend the $120 to get the brass one. You also need to fix the drain valve to an all brass one since you have to totally drain it anyhow. There is no problem reusing the anti-freeze. I filtered it through a paint filter and used it again. I drained the anti-freeze into three six gallon containers and had a spare one standing by.
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Old 04-25-2011, 02:00 PM   #19
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Again thanks for the great input. I don't think a mirror and flashlight will do the trick, you can hardly get a hand in there to take off the cap. I'll do as you suggest, Mike, and bypass the switch and see if that is the issue, then proceed from there.
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Old 04-26-2011, 09:20 AM   #20
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Tech support at Aqua-Hot send me a useful link:

RV Hydronic Heater Repair - Downloads
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Old 04-26-2011, 09:48 AM   #21
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Aqua-Hot Won't Fire

Paul

Sorry that I am slow in responding. I have been busy.

Your float switch has probably failed. If the switch has failed, it thinks that the boiler is low on coolant and shuts everything down. It is not uncommon for the plastic to crack, especially if the coolant gets low and the plastic is exposed to the air in the tank. The replacement float is mostly made out of brass and is much more robust.

Aqua-Hot gave you a link to a couple of the troubleshooting guides that I have written. To jumper the float switch you need “How to defeat the float switch”. If you choose to replace the float switch yourself, read “How to replace float switch”. There are a number of online parts sources for Aqua-Hot parts. Search for “RV Hydronic Heater Parts”.

If you have questions you can post on my Yahoo group.

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Old 04-26-2011, 10:24 AM   #22
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Roger,

No worries, I have not had time to get back to the coach. I will follow the "How to defeat the float switch" instructions today. If that gets it going, I'll order some parts and have a go at it following your other instructions.

I didn't realize that you had written them as there is no obvious credit, but I am quite grateful that you did so.

Thank you and I'll post my results.

Paul.
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Old 04-26-2011, 03:55 PM   #23
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Tested it today but was silly and didn't take a small enough screw driver so I could only hold the jumper in place for a few seconds, not enough to fire the burner but long enough to see the light go out. I'll go back later with a small screw driver and see if I can fire it.
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Old 04-27-2011, 07:56 AM   #24
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Thanks everyone - I did get it to fire last night. It needs a float switch and I think I now have enough info to change it.
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Old 04-27-2011, 08:25 AM   #25
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RE: Aqua-Hot Won't Fire

Paul

Check the drain valve for your Aqua-Hot. If it still has any plastic parts on it you should use replace those parts with brass while you have the coolant out.

Your model of Aqua-Hot was built with short brass pipe nipple that connects with the plastic parts. Replace with 1/2" brass coupling, 2" or 2 1/2" pipe nipple, then use 1/2" brass ball valve.

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Old 04-28-2011, 06:01 PM   #26
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Last question (for now) - how full should the tank be? I ran it until it had pushed some fluid into the overflow tank, and it did pull about the same amount back when it cooled down completely, but if I am not mistaken it won't actually fill itself that way if it was short to begin with. I have it filled to about an inch below the bottom of the main tank filler neck.
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Old 04-28-2011, 06:08 PM   #27
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Paul, you already have the float switch installed?

Read this on bleeding the system of air
Aqua-Hot Heating Systems Inc.
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Old 04-28-2011, 11:48 PM   #28
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RE: Aqua-Hot Won't Fire

The model of Aqua-Hot that is in Paul's coach is an AHE-100-04S, which has 'self priming' pumps.

There will be about 1/2 gallon of coolant that will 'overflow' out of the boiler tank to the overflow bottle as the unit heats to operating temperature. Let unit cool for at least 1/2 hour, then remove radiator cap. Should be full right to neck.

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