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Old 07-28-2011, 10:12 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimM68 View Post
Tomorrow I'm going to fix the symptom... voltage drop = heat, and the only thing hot is that 30 to 20 adapter, so it goes bye bye.
From your first post:
"Proposed fix one is to install a 30 amp receptacle on the 20 amp power line in the garage. Bad, I know. but how bad? That line is 12 guage wire, direct to the fuse panel. 2 20 amp circuits actually, with a shared neutral, 3 12 gauge wires."

You could save the cost of the adapter if you just skin the wire back and shove the exposed copper into the receptacle.
Since you're selling the house anyway, who cares.
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Old 07-28-2011, 10:29 PM   #16
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If you want to be safe and have a electrician wire you in a 30 or 50 amp outlet make sure he follows these instructions.
A RV does not wire up like a home dryer circuit if he doesn't wire correctly make sure your have a surge protector or your coach electronics are going to fry.
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:22 PM   #17
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Adding a 30 amp plug only lets you avoid the adapter. If you don't change the breaker, you will still be limited to 20 amps and the wiring should be protected. Your EMS should still be set to 20 amps. If you set it at 30, you'll still pop the breaker.

When you mentioned two hots with a single neutral, you were referring to 240 volts, not 120. Don't confuse the two. If you're not sure what this all means, you probably need someone with more electrical knowledge to help you.

If you want to run the ac and charger at the same time, have you checked to see if you can limit the current draw of the charger? On mine, I can dial it back to 5 amps if I am on a limited circuit.
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Old 07-30-2011, 07:31 AM   #18
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Adding a 30 amp plug only lets you avoid the adapter. If you don't change the breaker, you will still be limited to 20 amps and the wiring should be protected. Your EMS should still be set to 20 amps. If you set it at 30, you'll still pop the breaker.

When you mentioned two hots with a single neutral, you were referring to 240 volts, not 120. Don't confuse the two. If you're not sure what this all means, you probably need someone with more electrical knowledge to help you.

If you want to run the ac and charger at the same time, have you checked to see if you can limit the current draw of the charger? On mine, I can dial it back to 5 amps if I am on a limited circuit.

My available circuit is providing the current I need. Yes, I can and sometimes have dailed the battery charger down to 5 amps or turned it off completely.

Mostly I'm having trouble with the concept of putting a 30 amp receptacle on what is known to me as a 20 amp circuit. Red Flag. Big Bozo NONO. Wrong Wrong Wrong. I don't have 10 gauge wire, or a 30 amp breaker, and it shouldn't have a 30 amp receptacle.

And yet doing so will accomplish my goal, which is simply to stop melting down the 30 to 20 amp adapters and provide my rv with eoungh good power to run 1 A/C and hopefully the battery charger.
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Old 07-30-2011, 07:57 AM   #19
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From an electrical point of view, it will work. Having a plug that can carry more current that the circuit would allow isn't going to hurt anything. The only danger is that someone decides they need more current and changes the breaker to 30 amps without increasing the wire size. If you put a 30 amp breaker and label it 20 amps only, what's the harm?
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Old 07-30-2011, 08:10 AM   #20
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Just so you know a 50A RV outlet is 220V
This came from post #3. I'm not an electrician but I don't think this is true. Rest of the post looks correct.

My understanding is that a 50A RV outlet is 2 lines of 120 volts not 220. An electrician not familiar with RV outlets needs to be aware it's wired as 2 lines of 120 and not 240 like a dryer or oven outlet (and maybe that pool outlet).

Not trying to start an argument, just trying to clarify.
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Old 07-30-2011, 08:16 AM   #21
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50A RV service is indeed 240V, however most RVs only use the 120V legs.

It's all explained here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nonno View Post
This came from post #3. I'm not an electrician but I don't think this is true. Rest of the post looks correct.

My understanding is that a 50A RV outlet is 2 lines of 120 volts not 220. An electrician not familiar with RV outlets needs to be aware it's wired as 2 lines of 120 and not 240 like a dryer or oven outlet (and maybe that pool outlet).

Not trying to start an argument, just trying to clarify.
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Old 07-30-2011, 08:32 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimM68 View Post
My available circuit is providing the current I need. Yes, I can and sometimes have dailed the battery charger down to 5 amps or turned it off completely.

Mostly I'm having trouble with the concept of putting a 30 amp receptacle on what is known to me as a 20 amp circuit. Red Flag. Big Bozo NONO. Wrong Wrong Wrong. I don't have 10 gauge wire, or a 30 amp breaker, and it shouldn't have a 30 amp receptacle.

And yet doing so will accomplish my goal, which is simply to stop melting down the 30 to 20 amp adapters and provide my rv with eoungh good power to run 1 A/C and hopefully the battery charger.

I am an electrician. I would do it in a heartbeat and just put it back when you plan to sell. I also swapped the ends of my ext cords for the commercial grade (non rubber molded type) to prevent melting. As Hillbilly said it's the voltage drop due to the cord size and adapter connections that are aggravating the problem.
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Old 08-01-2011, 10:15 PM   #23
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I hooked up my 30 amp receptacle today, as I found an excuse to use the coach for a work related road trip...

Can't get something for nothing I think...

I'm plugging a 20 foot, 30 amp extension cord into the garage receptacle, then a 30 to 50 dogbone, and then the RV's power cord.

In the garage with no load I have 122 volts.
In the RV without the AC on, 119. (Charger on float, Frig, and some lights on pull 5 ampos according to the ems panel)
Front A/C on, I'm pulling 21 amps, and the voltage in the RV is down to 109.

I set the ems to 20 amps instead of 30, it shuts the A/C off :(

Is it ok to run the A/C on 109 volts?

Tomorrow I may try switching off the battery charger and putting the frig on gas.
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Old 08-01-2011, 10:42 PM   #24
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Jim,
At 109 volts your right on the threshold of where lose of life starts to occur on your air conditioner motor. Also the motor is harder to start.
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Old 08-02-2011, 10:24 AM   #25
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If it were me, I wouldn't. When the voltage drops, the current draw goes up. My surge protector shuts off power when the voltage drops 10% from nominal. That's 108 volts. You're too close that that.
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Old 08-02-2011, 10:40 AM   #26
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Why not just run the genset? It probably needs some exercise anyway.
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Old 08-02-2011, 12:34 PM   #27
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If you are pulling 21amps from that circuit, the 20amp breaker is already bad or is not a 20amp breaker protecting the circuit.

You are in a dangerous situation. You will not see or feel the hotspot in the circuit wiring in the house until the smoke comes out......

Its a 20amp circuit for a reason. Designed to allow 16amps continuous draw. You are way beyond its ampacity.
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Old 08-02-2011, 12:37 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nonno View Post
My understanding is that a 50A RV outlet is 2 lines of 120 volts not 220. An electrician not familiar with RV outlets needs to be aware it's wired as 2 lines of 120 and not 240 like a dryer or oven outlet (and maybe that pool outlet).

Not trying to start an argument, just trying to clarify.
On a properly wired RV 50 amp supply:

L1 > N = 120VAC
L2 > N = 120VAC
L1 > L2 = 240VAC

Rusty
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