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Old 08-04-2015, 02:09 PM   #15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Sandy, Utah
Posts: 150
you trust the whole grip toVHB tape? Just under each bracket? I dont see how one can screw into 1/8" wood over foam and get a good grip. I wish it was standard for the RV manufactures to have downlads of the underlying roof support structure for each model and year. I am trying to figure out how to mount a solar panel on my lance camper Alum roof. Surely I need some sort of screw as the roof is very separate from the underlying structures in most places. It seems to expand and contract with temperature quite a bit so I worry about the stress on 4 anchor points.

Why isn't there a forum for"All things solar"?

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Old 08-04-2015, 02:57 PM   #16
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 466
I used rubber wellnuts (rubber insulated rivet nuts) on both my previous and current coaches. The old coach had a fiberglass roof and the new one TPO. The wellnuts grip the luan very well and also seal the roof. I used a little Dicor for extra measure. I had panels on the old coach using this method for over 10 years with 0 issues. Solid and no leaks right up to the day I sold it.


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Old 08-04-2015, 05:25 PM   #17
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Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mount Laurel, N.J.
Posts: 65
I used 2 lengths of uni-strut the same length as my panels. I attached butyl tape to the under side of the unistrut and attached uni-strut to the roof using either 5/16" screws or 1/4" toggles. then covered screws with dicor. to keep the water out of the uni-strut I added sheet metal bent on 3 sides to cover the top of the uni-strut. I then attached 2 more uni-struts to the ones mounted on the roof. this way I can place the panels just about any where I needed. also good for the next set of panels if I ever need to change them. even with the wind guards the panels are able to tilt.
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1240 watts solar/batteries 1450AH
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panel, roof, solar

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