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Old 10-24-2015, 12:42 PM   #1
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? Atwood furnace model #8535

My furnace cycles more than i think it should??blower stays on,but burner cycles off and on every 2-3 min.?? Is this problem the limiter switch?if so how to replace??--ken
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Old 10-25-2015, 03:08 PM   #2
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You don't mention what thermostat you have. Some stats have an adjustment to increase/decrease cycle time of burner. The fan cycles automatically with off delay to wring out the last of heat in heat exchanger. Give us make model of T'stat and maybe we can zero in better on the problem.
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Old 10-25-2015, 08:03 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KEN HEARING View Post
My furnace cycles more than i think it should??blower stays on,but burner cycles off and on every 2-3 min.?? Is this problem the limiter switch?if so how to replace??--ken
My furnace does that too. Had it looked at and was told it worked fine on the workbench. The limit switch was replaced just in case but the real problem seemed to be the coach builder didn't provide enough vent connections to the plenum. It still gets to hot and trips the limit switch and repeats the cycle just as you said until it reaches the thermostat set point.
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Old 10-26-2015, 06:33 AM   #4
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The problem you have is not enough air flow across the heat exchanger. The heat exchanger gets to a set temp. and turns the burner off and when it cools down the burner will relite. I have seen some people that shut some air vents to direct the heat to other rooms and this causes this. Its not a problem It's just how thw furnace keeps itself from over heating. If the air cominig out isn't hot enough the high temp thermal switch coud be defective.
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Old 10-26-2015, 08:13 AM   #5
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Normal operation, the furnace should heat until the selected temp is reached, then burner turns off but blower runs until unit cools. The burner cycling off and then back on while the fan still runs is an overheat condition.

Previous MH, furnace worked normally for years but then started to cycle the burner, and gradually became noisier. Found the plastic blower wheel was distorted from overheating. Part of the lining of the underfloor ducting had come loose and was blocking part of the duct.

Cycling at 2-3 minute intervals seems more often that usual.. This may help.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h...ameservice.pdf
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Old 01-05-2016, 08:32 PM   #6
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My Atwood furnace just started short cycling this winter. By short cycling, I mean SHORT! Mine will start the burner, then the blower as designed. After about 2 minutes it starts cycling burner off 15-20 seconds, burner on 35-45 seconds. The entire time the blower is running. I think I either have a faulty limit switch or something is wrong with the airflow. The later being what I suspect because the flow at the floor registers is "weak" in 3 of th 4 registers. Now the next issue, I have no idea how to clean the ducting if there is now an obstruction. Anyone done this or think I'm chasing the wrong rabbit?
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Old 01-05-2016, 09:20 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by dcmillerokc View Post
My Atwood furnace just started short cycling this winter. After about 2 minutes it starts cycling burner off 15-20 seconds, burner on 35-45 seconds. The entire time the blower is running.
Prior MH, part of the underfloor lining dropped down and blocked the airflow. Same indication as your unit, when overheated the flame shuts off and the blower runs to cool it down, then the flame comes back on. Mine distorted the blower wheel (squirrel cage) due to the heat. The warped blower also has less output. Look into the duct with a mirror and light you may see the problem. If you have side ducts make sure they are not kinked.
I had to remove my furnace to repair, the blockage was where the hot air entered the underfloor ducting.
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Old 01-05-2016, 10:36 PM   #8
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It is called 'LIMITING'

Pg 31 gives cause/effect

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/hflamefurn04.pdf
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