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Old 03-26-2011, 03:41 PM   #15
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I don't believe it's the transfer switch, if it fails to transfer from generator to utility, you just don't have power. Possibly its the adapter you are using, is it homemade or factory built? Has it worked before with the same outlet, and just now stopped working?

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Old 03-29-2011, 08:45 AM   #16
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If you are attempting to plug in to a 20A GFI with an adapter to a 50@ coach there's is no telling what the problem is. Most coach manuf. do not recomend plugging in to 20A GFI outlets, if you must be carefull how much load you put on them. Not knowing what kind of charging/inverter/converter you have, depending on how low your house battery's are your charger and a few lights/ref could pull more than 20 amps. Also transfer switches do funny things to GFI's when they switch some will hold some will not. The question here is does your coach work properly on 50A shore power and generator power? If so more than likely you problem is your adapter or outlet. As to the transfer Sw clicking some coaches are wired to accept generator power as primary, and shore power as secondary or visa versa the clicking is the contacts closing, you can change them to suit your needs. most have shore power as primary. Any time you are switching power sources all major loads should be turned off, other wise you will burn things up sooner than later.

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Old 03-30-2011, 11:43 AM   #17
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Hillbilly2 - Factory made adapter that worked over the winter from this outlet.

bbeane - GFI resets even if MH main breaker is off. Power from generator seem to work fine. Do not have 30 or 50 amp available yet where the MH is parked. Guess I should try a new adapter and/or a non-GFI outlet.

Thanks for the info.
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Old 03-31-2011, 04:44 AM   #18
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Assuming all of your adapters and plugs are clean and tight, and your GFI outlet is good, the next step is to check the actual voltage with a meter at the outlet any thing less than 105V is no good 110-125v is what you need (remember voltage drop if you are useing extension cords low voltage= high amp draw). Then turn all of the breakers off in the 120v panel in the M/H including the main, make sure ALL electrical loads are off in the coach, UNPLUG the coach turn off the inverter if you have one, make sure the generator is off. Check ALL connections in the panel and T/fer S/W make sure they are clean and tight (this part of the yearly maint. on my coach). Put every thing back togather turn the main on, turn on breakers on at a time when the GFI trips there is the circuit with the problem could be a a light fixture bad wire bad or loose somewhere. If you are not comfortable working with AC voltage and a meter you might should call an electrican who has RV knowledge before the smoke gets out of something, cause the smoke is hard to put back in the wires once it's out.
Good luck.
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Old 03-31-2011, 05:20 AM   #19
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Most transfer switches, IOTA & ESCO, are built with the default position on the generator side. Then when the shore power is connected and energized, the transfer switch will "clunk" and transfer power over through the contacts to allow the power coming from the shore power cord.

When working on electrical problems, you need to check power at a variety of locations starting at the beginning of the source. There are too many places where the problem may be located.

Dr4Film ----- Richard.

2002 Monaco Windsor PBT 40Ft. (R HOME) - 30Ft. 2006 Pace Trailer (R JUNK). Trailer Has 06 VUE (R TOWD) 04 Victory Alen Ness Edition (R RYDE). Full-Timer for 14 Yr's BUT now a Part-Timer. Cummins ISC-350 With Banks Power Pack and Upgraded PRXB PacBrake.
Winter Home in Flagler Beach FL - Now Staying in Dansville NY for the Summer.
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