Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-10-2014, 06:27 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
wa8yxm's Avatar
 
Damon Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 22,790
First: The inverter is not getting power, hence no lights.
The house is not getting power. now there is one and only one possible situation that would kill power to both and this is rare.

NORMAL install of an inverter puts a "T" fuse in the positive lead, Now normally this fuse ONLY feeds the inverter. and normally the inverter is connected DIRECTLY to the batteries via this fuse, no switches, just the fuse.

HOWEVER:

Some folks do it differently

I mean it is possible to put the house on the inverter side of the fuse, IF this were the case and the fuse...fused... (or un-fused depending on your point of view, ignore this) blew in any case. NO POWER.

The other possible screw up is putting the inverter on the HOUSE side of the disconnect solenoid, Now this one I can help you with.

Actually both:
To test the fuse.. Find it, measure the voltage to ground on both terminals, if battery GOOD, if battery/ZERO blown

The Solenoid (Same test by the way) to locate it operate the USE/STORE or Disconnect switch whatever it is called, LISTEN for the CLUNK (If no clunk you have a problem) if you heat the clunk follow the sound to the device.

If the solenoid is buried inside a big black box.. Post, this one is easy to fix.
__________________

__________________
Home is where I park it!
wa8yxm is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 11-10-2014, 07:48 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 4,492
Try this...

Have helper push and hold the "boost" switch then try the battery disconnect switch.

A friends southwind uses house battery to power the relays snd ehen house battery dead (water gone) the relays would not work.

Troubleshooting discovered how powered and simple boost worked.
__________________

__________________
Tony & Lori
1989 Country Coach Savannah SE
TQ60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2014, 09:48 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
jerichorick's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Full-timer/volunteer w/SOWERS
Posts: 3,394
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shallow View Post
Kind of in a pinch. I'm out in my 07 Fleetwood 38L and my AUX batteries aren't registering on the battery test panel. This is a problem as nothing on the coach electrical system owl work. No water pump. No generator. And no control if the refrigerator and ultimately unable to stow the satellite dish.

I checked the voltage at the batteries with a voltmeter and they have plenty if juice.

Any thoughts? Could definitely use a recommendation.

Thanks
About the antenna. If it is a Winegard there is a black nut style cap on the base. Here is what I found on the website: If unable to stow the TRAVíLER antenna, it may be necessary to use emergency manual stow. Emergency manual stow is meant as a last resort and is not meant for common usage! To use emergency manual stow, unplug the interface box. Then, remove the black plastic bolt from the back of the mount. Insert a 3/8th socket extension into this auxiliary drive. Turn the auxiliary drive clockwise to lower the unit. Do not use a drill!


Xantrex is not the best inverter in my opinion. It seems that you do have battery at the input to the inverter but the inverter is dead. Make certain the communication wire is connected correctly at the inverter and at the panel. If you are on shore power or generator I believe the inverter internal transfer switch should bypass the inverter to favor the external power. If this is not happening the inverter is dead.



Here is a procedure I have used. Do use care doing this. Shut off all of the breakers in your service panel. Disconnect the shore power and shut off the generator breaker. (Forgive my overkill but I don't know your skill level.) Mark and remove the AC wires from the inverter terminals and connect the like colored leads together securely with wire nuts. Set all of the breakers back on, including the generator, and connect the shore power. If everything is working your inverter is cooked.


Look forward to your results.


Rick Y


stow is meant as a last resort and is not meant for common usage! To use emergency manual stow, unplug the
interface box. Then, remove the black plastic bolt from the back of the mount. Insert a 3/8th socket extension into this
auxiliary drive. Turn the auxiliary drive clockwise to lower the unit. Do not use a drill!
__________________
Rick & Melissa Young & Dawson, 2011 Itasca Meridian 40U, Freightliner XCL, Cummins ISL 380HP/DEF, Allison 3000 MH, 2014 Honda CR-V, SMI AF1, Blue Ox tow equip., TST 507 TPMS, TruCenter steering control, Hughes auto transformer.
Servants On Wheels Ever Ready. Best job we ever paid to do . (full time volunteers)
jerichorick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2014, 10:24 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
gemini5362's Avatar
 
Tiffin Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,078
If you know enough to know what I am talking about you can make a suicide cord and jump between a non inverter outlet and an inverter outlet. This would power up all the outlets in the coach and allow you to stow the satellite antenna. If you do this make sure to double check all of your connections and turn the circuit breakers on the inverter off along with the circuit breaker feeding the inverter on the electrical panel.
That being said:

Xantrex inverters 2500 watts and larger are double in double out meaning you have two input 115 vac lines and two output lines.
Xantrex inverters lower than 2500 watts have one input line and two output lines. What this means to you if you have a 2000 watt inverter all that has to happen is that the input 115vac line coming in breaks, has a loose connection in the unit etc and you have no power coming in. If you have no power coming in and the inverter has been providing power to everything then your batteries could be dead.

In my allegro bus someone possibly even the dealer put a electrical outlet in one of the input lines going to the inverter ( I have a 2500 watt dual in dual out inverter) They just put this line in and let it set loose. Then the battery minder for the chassis batteries was plugged in to this outlet. I did not worry about it it had been that way for years before I bought the coach used. The wire coming from this outlet continuing into the inverter broke and that knocked out most of my outlets. ( I only have two outlets off of the other leg) I used a suicide cord to get home from a trip until I could get to a shop and let them troubleshoot the inverter because I thought the inverter had died and I have an extended warranty.
__________________
gemini5362 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2014, 08:44 AM   #19
Senior Member
 
mgscott4's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Kansas City, MO./Pollock, LA.
Posts: 1,549
Maybe I missed something but I need more information to help.

Is the MH plugged into shore power? If no, can you plug it in? If no, can you start the generator?

Once 120 volt power is applied, Is the converter supplying 12 volts to the aux batteries and the 12 volt appliances? If yes, then there is a DC circuit breaker in the Battery Control Center (BCC) that needs to be reset, or a problem in the BCC. If no, then again, you most likely have a problem with your BCC because your 12 volts can,t get from the batteries to the appliances.
__________________
06 Hurricane 34FT WH W20 Chassis 8.1L 132K, Steersafe, Koni Shocks, DIY Trac Bar, Tri-Metric 2025RV Battery Monitor, 4-6V Batteries, Scan Gauge 2, Crossfires, 735W Solar Morningstar MPPT-60, WG T4 In-Motion Sat, XM Radio, 07 Chevy Malibu Maxx Toad, Falcon 2, Brake Buddy, Escapee
mgscott4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2014, 08:54 AM   #20
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 74
Thanks to everyone for the recommendations and education. All of this info is quite valuable. I am reading your comments from home this morning and I'll quickly advise everyone of what I did up get home and then what I found when I got home.

I actually had two problems slowing me from driving the RV. The dish, and the awning over the entrance could not be retracted normally.

The awning I dealt with by grabbing and extra set of hands and securing it closed with zip ties.

The dish I dealt with by driving a couple miles at 20 mph with every other RV-er pointing frantically at the dish as they drove past. There was a small roadside cafe and I plugged into one of their exterior power outlets. I had to plug directly into the dish control box's plug as sending the power through the normal shore power cord didn't seem to work.

The drive home was just over 2 hours and before I shut the RV down, I observed the status lights for the AUX batteries on the interior control panel. Yup, LED nice and bright and the batteries showing about 11.8 volts. Strange right?

I connected my 30 amp shore power and everything seemed to be functioning very normally. I have a couple thoughts regarding what might be the source of the problems, but will take another look today and post.
__________________
2007 Fleetwood Bounder 38L
Shallow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2014, 09:29 AM   #21
Senior Member
 
gemini5362's Avatar
 
Tiffin Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,078
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shallow View Post
Thanks to everyone for the recommendations and education. All of this info is quite valuable. I am reading your comments from home this morning and I'll quickly advise everyone of what I did up get home and then what I found when I got home.

I actually had two problems slowing me from driving the RV. The dish, and the awning over the entrance could not be retracted normally.

The awning I dealt with by grabbing and extra set of hands and securing it closed with zip ties.

The dish I dealt with by driving a couple miles at 20 mph with every other RV-er pointing frantically at the dish as they drove past. There was a small roadside cafe and I plugged into one of their exterior power outlets. I had to plug directly into the dish control box's plug as sending the power through the normal shore power cord didn't seem to work.

The drive home was just over 2 hours and before I shut the RV down, I observed the status lights for the AUX batteries on the interior control panel. Yup, LED nice and bright and the batteries showing about 11.8 volts. Strange right?

I connected my 30 amp shore power and everything seemed to be functioning very normally. I have a couple thoughts regarding what might be the source of the problems, but will take another look today and post.

OK you have answered some questions I believe with this post. First of all I wondered why you had not just plugged the satellite dish controller into power directly and evidently the answer is you did not have shore power available. The fact that your batteries are charged after driving means they were totally discharged. Most Mh will charge the batteries off of the alternator and this does not go through the inverter. Since your batteries were dead it sounds like the inverter was not charging them. I believe you have a broken 115vac wire going into the inverter or the inverter is bad.

I just reread your original post where you said you checked the batteries and they were good. I am not sure why they checked good initially. It appears from this post though that they charged while you were driving. Did you by any chance after you got home and they showed good check your waterpump, awning etc to see if they were working now ?
__________________
gemini5362 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2014, 02:05 PM   #22
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 74
The voltage indicated 12+ volts when measured at the inputs from the batteries to the inverter. This was the first thing I checked when the generator wouldn't start.

I cannot explain why at the time the voltage at the interior panel would not display a voltage.

All electronics are working normally now that the batteries are registering on the interior panel and the inverter is displaying normal indications.
__________________
2007 Fleetwood Bounder 38L
Shallow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2014, 07:54 AM   #23
Senior Member
 
jerichorick's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Full-timer/volunteer w/SOWERS
Posts: 3,394
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shallow View Post
The voltage indicated 12+ volts when measured at the inputs from the batteries to the inverter. This was the first thing I checked when the generator wouldn't start.

I cannot explain why at the time the voltage at the interior panel would not display a voltage.

All electronics are working normally now that the batteries are registering on the interior panel and the inverter is displaying normal indications.
I would consider a loose connection or ground. Take a closer look at the DC connections of the inverter, including the grounds. And look for any sign of corrosion or oxidation. You might want to top off your batteries just to be on the safe side. At least the inspection of the water level is worth the peace of mind.

If all else falls chalk it up to RV gremlins .
__________________
Rick & Melissa Young & Dawson, 2011 Itasca Meridian 40U, Freightliner XCL, Cummins ISL 380HP/DEF, Allison 3000 MH, 2014 Honda CR-V, SMI AF1, Blue Ox tow equip., TST 507 TPMS, TruCenter steering control, Hughes auto transformer.
Servants On Wheels Ever Ready. Best job we ever paid to do . (full time volunteers)
jerichorick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2014, 09:59 AM   #24
Senior Member
 
mgscott4's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Kansas City, MO./Pollock, LA.
Posts: 1,549
My guess is a loose connection or intermittent relay in you BCC.

If your BCC is manufactured by "RV Custom Products" they have history of making bad relays that resulted in a recall in their FW-2050 BCC.
__________________
06 Hurricane 34FT WH W20 Chassis 8.1L 132K, Steersafe, Koni Shocks, DIY Trac Bar, Tri-Metric 2025RV Battery Monitor, 4-6V Batteries, Scan Gauge 2, Crossfires, 735W Solar Morningstar MPPT-60, WG T4 In-Motion Sat, XM Radio, 07 Chevy Malibu Maxx Toad, Falcon 2, Brake Buddy, Escapee
mgscott4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2014, 12:44 PM   #25
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 74
I'll look into the connections and relay. The batteries are of unknown installation date but are displaying signs of age. I'm going to start with replacing the batteries I'm hopes it will prevent me from chasing my tail.
__________________
2007 Fleetwood Bounder 38L
Shallow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2014, 08:20 AM   #26
Senior Member
 
jerichorick's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Full-timer/volunteer w/SOWERS
Posts: 3,394
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shallow View Post
I'll look into the connections and relay. The batteries are of unknown installation date but are displaying signs of age. I'm going to start with replacing the batteries I'm hopes it will prevent me from chasing my tail.
Be patient. Before you change out the batteries test them if you can. The first valid test is disconnect them after they are fully charged and read the voltage on each. Do this again in about 6 hrs and then in 24 hrs. Mark the batteries and record what you find. There are some really good instructions for doing a full test on the web. Time is needed. If your batteries are not self draining rapidly than you could try EQUALIZING them. I know I have that option on my charger but will never use it on my AGM's.

Do you have the schematic of your coach? I would help some if that were available. If I recall correctly I had some sort of device under my 2000 Fleetwood that the battery cables were attached to. I think it was flat, but that was so long ago I don't recall accurately. Besides that, I was so new at RVing I was totally without a clue. Boy, have I had an education over the years. too often.

I hope you get to the REAL problem soon so you can go back to RVing in comfort. Keep us posted.

Rick Y
__________________
Rick & Melissa Young & Dawson, 2011 Itasca Meridian 40U, Freightliner XCL, Cummins ISL 380HP/DEF, Allison 3000 MH, 2014 Honda CR-V, SMI AF1, Blue Ox tow equip., TST 507 TPMS, TruCenter steering control, Hughes auto transformer.
Servants On Wheels Ever Ready. Best job we ever paid to do . (full time volunteers)
jerichorick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2014, 12:32 PM   #27
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 74
Ricky Y

Unfortunately, time I don't have. But I did find that my battery cables connecting them in series and to the inverter were significantly corroded. Cleaned up the cables and 4 new batteries and I have had no issues the past couple days.
__________________
2007 Fleetwood Bounder 38L
Shallow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2014, 08:46 AM   #28
Senior Member
 
jerichorick's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Full-timer/volunteer w/SOWERS
Posts: 3,394
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shallow View Post
Ricky Y

Unfortunately, time I don't have. But I did find that my battery cables connecting them in series and to the inverter were significantly corroded. Cleaned up the cables and 4 new batteries and I have had no issues the past couple days.
I take it these are standard deep cycle wet cell batteries. Have you considered using mineral oil in the cells?
__________________

__________________
Rick & Melissa Young & Dawson, 2011 Itasca Meridian 40U, Freightliner XCL, Cummins ISL 380HP/DEF, Allison 3000 MH, 2014 Honda CR-V, SMI AF1, Blue Ox tow equip., TST 507 TPMS, TruCenter steering control, Hughes auto transformer.
Servants On Wheels Ever Ready. Best job we ever paid to do . (full time volunteers)
jerichorick is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
batteries



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Starting Batteries Joedean Class A Motorhome Discussions 6 12-12-2014 02:21 PM
House Batteries cooked on us! RV1597 RV Systems & Appliances 13 07-05-2014 02:26 PM
House batteries making buzzing noise Furniss Class A Motorhome Discussions 10 06-21-2014 11:46 AM
New hot water tank line question ffspread Vintage RV's 2 06-06-2014 11:33 AM
Charging rates in AGM batteries MN_Traveler Class A Motorhome Discussions 11 04-09-2014 08:09 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:50 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.