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Old 04-12-2011, 03:18 PM   #1
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Aux start button

Got my first MH (see sig below).

I can't seem to find any info in the manual about the "Aux start" button on the dash. During the PDI, it was briefly explained to me, but because I was too damn excited to drive it away, quickly forgot.

Here's what I remember:

If the chassis battery is dead and unable to crank over the starter, I can press the aux start button (which would tap the 2 house batteries) and it automatically engages the starter, is that right?

Or do I press it, AND THEN turn the ignition key "on" to start it?



Thanks in advance !
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Old 04-12-2011, 03:23 PM   #2
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Lou

You are correct at pushing it. However, push it and hold it for a few minutes to give the house batteries some time to transfer some juice to the chassis batteries. Than try to start holding the switch in.

jack
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Old 04-12-2011, 03:24 PM   #3
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The aux start switch only ties the coach and chasis batteries together. Its a monemtary switch so you have to push and hold, and then try to crank your engine. It won't do it for you.
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Old 04-12-2011, 03:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peacekeeper6 View Post
Got my first MH (see sig below).

I can't seem to find any info in the manual about the "Aux start" button on the dash. During the PDI, it was briefly explained to me, but because I was too damn excited to drive it away, quickly forgot.

Here's what I remember:

If the chassis battery is dead and unable to crank over the starter, I can press the aux start button (which would tap the 2 house batteries) and it automatically engages the starter, is that right?

Or do I press it, AND THEN turn the ignition key "on" to start it?



Thanks in advance !
on mine you hold it down while cranking with key normally.

Good idea for you to locate your starter relay back in engine area so if you have one fail you can easily start the big bugger with just shorting out the contacts with a screwdriver.

Bob
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Old 04-12-2011, 03:58 PM   #5
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You can also go backwards. If the house batteries are too low to start the generator then push and hold the AUX START while starting the generator. Sometime AUX START is also called BATTERY BOOST or BAT BOOST
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Old 04-12-2011, 04:03 PM   #6
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You need to tie this and aux start togethert as they are the same.
Thanks.
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Old 04-12-2011, 05:08 PM   #7
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My 2 cents This switch can also save you if you alternator goes out! Mine did and I simply held the aux start down to use coach batteries for power until I got the last 10 miles to the house. As soon as I let go the motor died. Replaced alternator and everything good again.
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Old 04-12-2011, 09:08 PM   #8
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I actually ran from NJ to Myrtle Beach without an alternstor. Wedged a water bottle and wallet to hold the aux start button in the on position. Kept the generator running to charge the house batteries... No problem. Arrived in Myrtle Beach, otdered the alternator and had the dealer install it. The wallet was much smaller on the way home.
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Old 04-12-2011, 10:06 PM   #9
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If your chassis and house batteries are in the same bay, as with many DP's, you can also use jumper cables between the two banks if the aux circuit fails. Good idea to cycle the switch once a month to excercise the system.
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Old 04-12-2011, 10:13 PM   #10
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My 2 cents This switch can also save you if you alternator goes out! Mine did and I simply held the aux start down to use coach batteries for power until I got the last 10 miles to the house. As soon as I let go the motor died. Replaced alternator and everything good again.
If your generator is set up to charge the chassis battery, you can also start the generator, and then you don't need to hold the switch in. Will also keep you from running the coach batteries down if you need to go a long way. Depending on the capacity of the convertor, you might not have enough 12 volt amps from the convertor to run a long distance at night with the headlights though.
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Old 04-12-2011, 10:13 PM   #11
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Actually it's a good (IMO) idea to carry a single 10 ga or larger wire to connect the positive of chassis to positive of coach banks together. All of them will be charged when positives connected......no need to connect the negatives. Just don't forget your jumped the banks or you may find all of them are discharged........
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Old 04-12-2011, 10:33 PM   #12
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That a pretty good idea! I guess a heavy duty jumper cable set would suffice?
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Old 04-12-2011, 10:51 PM   #13
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That a pretty good idea! I guess a heavy duty jumper cable set would suffice?
In my opinon each end of the jump wire should be securely (like bolted) to the terminal. If one end comes loose it can easily ground on something and cause a problem. If your battery banks are in the same compartment just make up a 10 ga. or thicker wire to go between the banks positives and put the correct termination on each end so that you can securely fasten it when you have to use it.
If you have to replace your battery isolator solenoid find a continuous duty one with silver contacts.......Cole-Hersee makes one that is excellent for the purpose and is less than $75
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:23 AM   #14
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You should understand how the Boost/aux switch is actually wired and it's intended purpose before you start jumping things with wires lest you burn something up. Consult your owners manual and 12v wireing drawings, or have a good truck elec tech look at it and explain how it works. The house batterys are usually deep cycle as such they don't have a lot of cranking power. Your system may or may not be momentary, if the switch will stay in the on position it's on, if you have to hold it down it's momentary on. Any time you place a jumper wire in a 12V+ circuit you should have it fused see above.
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