Axle cover removal

[DaveGMC]

We have a 2014 Winnebago Vista 35F on the Ford F53 chassis. It's almost impossible to get to the valve stem of the inside rear wheel, so I want to install stainless steel valve extenders like I used to have on a Ford F350 dually I used to own. The problem is, I can't figure out how to remove the axle cover on the 22.5 wheels. The wheels are aluminum, but the axle/nut cover appears to be stainless. Can anyone offer advice?
Thanks!
Dave J

[jergeod]

On that cover you have simulated lug nuts, find the two that have a small indent on the side of them, unscrew those two only might take a little pressure to loosen them and the center cover comes right off. The question I have is why remove the cover to install stem extensions?

[ctpres]

Also can just tap each nut. The sound of real ones will be obvious.

[FIRE UP]

Well Sir,
If I understand your situation correctly, you have aluminum wheels and a stainless Steel hub cover, correct? So, the advice of you finding and loosening the only "two" real lug nuts would be for wheels that are steel and, you would have complete "wheel liners" made of stainless. You appereantly do not have that setup.

So, if yours is like ours, which is in the picture below, then the center emblem, which is shown in the picture below, is actually the shape of a big nut. Well, you can use some pliers on it but, it will scratch the surface of that big nut but, will work. Or, you can get a Hub Cover Nut removal tool, that's made of plastic and, does no damage to that retainer nut. And, on the passengers side, that retainer spins counter clock wise for removal and, on the drivers side, it spins clockwise for removal.

Now, again, this all assumes that, based on your description of your wheel scenario, you could/should, have the same retaining system for the hub cover. Let us know will you.
Scott

[jergeod]

After how many years now they changed how they hold the hub cover on?

[DaveGMC]

Thanks, Fire Up! Your picture could have been of my tire/wheel. I'm confused though. The center emblem is round and almost flush. It's not shaped as a nut. Does this emblem need to be pried off? That will be interesting without scratching or deforming the emblem. But, it seems the logical thing to do. There is a large "T" handle nut driver which came with the unit and I'm wondering if this is it's purpose.

Thanks for all the comments. All helpful.
Dave J

[PanJH]

I would suggest getting proper valve stems instead of the SS flex ones. The flex ones are troublesome at best. Many truck tire places can set you up with solid valve stems that will work or you can order them at Borg Tire Supply

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by jergeod

After how many years now they changed how they hold the hub cover on?

jergeod,
Well Sir, a very large percentage of the diesel units and, the gassers with the extra heavy duty chassis that is supplied with the 22.5" Alloy wheels, have the rear hub covers, removable in the style shown like, what's on ours. They've been doing it like that for quite a few years. There are different manors in which the rear hub cover is held on, to be sure.

On our fire trucks, the rear hub cover which, looked seriously close to what you see in my picture, (only without the "Freightliner emblem) was only held on with FRICTION. That is, there was a layer of foam wrapped around the hub and then, we pressed the hub cover right over that foam. It was amazing, we NEVER lost any, even with my crazy driving.

Now, like stated, the kind of mechanisms that you and others have mentioned here are the kind that are used in what's called full wheel liner covers. They normally are full, stainless steel covers with a hub cover that has a flange on it that fits around the lug nuts. But, there are two of the lug nuts that hold that cover in place. I know, cause I had two rigs like that. They are not intended for alloy (Polished Aluminum) wheels like I and many have.

Originally Posted by eicdave

Thanks, Fire Up! Your picture could have been of my tire/wheel. I'm confused though. The center emblem is round and almost flush. It's not shaped as a nut. Does this emblem need to be pried off? That will be interesting without scratching or deforming the emblem. But, it seems the logical thing to do. There is a large "T" handle nut driver which came with the unit and I'm wondering if this is it's purpose.

Thanks for all the comments. All helpful.
Dave J

Dave,
No, DO NOT PRY any emblem off. Not unless someone chimes in here with the same EXACT tire/wheel combo that you have and, has experience in removing the hub cover. If your wheel/hub cover does not look exactly like the one you see in the picture, then it must come off differently than how I explained it SHOULD. If your emblem is flush and, has no 8 or 6 sided emblem like what's on mine, then it surely does not spin off. If your wheels are alloy, like what's seen in my picture, then you have some sort of different system that I'm not aware of that retains that hub cover. A picture or pictures of that hub cover and, that "T" handle tool might help with us, trying to help you.

This is interesting. I always hesitate to say that things "will work" a certain way, just because they work that way on our rig. Even if I'm talking to a person that has the same exact rig. Because I know there's line changes in many aspects. But, most wheel and tire operations remain the same, for many years due to, "if it works, don't fix it" type thought process. So, I'd like to see how yours actually do come off.
Scott

[spanuts]

i used Valve Stem Extension Stabilizers for (Ford 22.5 Aluminum Wheel made in Taiwan) DL175F they work great
Valve Stem Extension Stabilizers for (Ford 22.5 Aluminum Wheel made in Taiwan) DL175F — always shiny wheels and rv

[ScoobyMike]

Fire up, my axle cover looks just like yours (except it is Workhorse). One of the axle cover nuts came off and is lost. I can't find these nuts anywhere, any suggestions as to where to look?

[jergeod]

I have a 34' gas F53 22,000 lb aluminum rims 22.5 and the center cap comes off by taking off two fake lug nuts, you can find them if you look for a small indent on the side of the nut, they screw off then the cap comes off.

[Hikerdogs]

Originally Posted by eicdave

We have a 2014 Winnebago Vista 35F on the Ford F53 chassis. It's almost impossible to get to the valve stem of the inside rear wheel, so I want to install stainless steel valve extenders like I used to have on a Ford F350 dually I used to own. The problem is, I can't figure out how to remove the axle cover on the 22.5 wheels. The wheels are aluminum, but the axle/nut cover appears to be stainless. Can anyone offer advice?
Thanks!
Dave J

Jergeod gave you the correct information. If your motorhome has the 8 lug 22.5" wheels the entire center section including all the lug nut covers are 1 piece. There are 2 lug nuts with detents in the covers. They are the real lug nuts that hold the entire assembly to the wheel. There are only detents on every other flat of the "real" lug nuts so you have to look closely to see which ones to remove. When you find 1 the other is at 180* from it.

Once the center cover is removed you can remove the real lug nuts. Keep in mind the real ones are torqued to 450 ft. lbs. If I recall correctly you'll need a 22MM socket. You'll also need a torque multiplier and a set of jack stands large enough to hold the weight of the rear axle.

[ScoobyMike]

Mine is a little different





The center piece with the Workhorse logo is actually a retaining nut. I need one of those & I don't care what logo is on it.

[Hikerdogs]

Originally Posted by ScoobyMike

Mine is a little different

Attachment 83571

Attachment 83572

The center piece with the Workhorse logo is actually a retaining nut. I need one of those & I don't care what logo is on it.

There are many different styles of retainers used on many different styles of wheels. Ford has used the style referred to by Jergeod since at least 2012. Since it's the only gas chassis Winnebago uses for this size motorhome I'm pretty sure this is the style wheel that's on the coach. If I remember correctly the wheels are made by Accuride.