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Old 10-28-2014, 06:33 AM   #71
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You know I've stayed away from this thread for some obvious reasons but maybe it's time to share something. Maybe some of you have not had the safety training and if you have maybe you slept thru the course (I don't know). This is a dangerous trade and respect of it is of the utmost importance. I have always taken it seriously not just for myself but for anyone who works alongside of me or any customers that I have serviced.
It's been mentioned that maybe I was "LUCKY" to have found the contacts in a breaker sticking. No it wasn't LUCK, I was just doing what each an everyone of you should do. NOT TAKE ANYTHING FOR GRANTED. I don't know if I mentioned this before but I have found this more then once. Do you really think that everything is fail safe? If you do you're badly mistaken. For this to happen a breaker does NOT have to be in a industrial environment nor does it have to be struck by lightning. It can happen just in the process from the manufacturer as a faulty item. I'm not a roll of the dice electrician. If you are so be it but don't ever condemn someone who is thorough in there work. I'll leave it at that and I'm including a page from one of my safety classes. Take the time to read first two paragraphs. You can click the image to enlarge it. Take care and be safe!
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Old 10-28-2014, 07:01 AM   #72
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I live in an area that has had several power outages.The really only safe way is to install a switch over box at the panel in the house.Mine has 10 emergency breakers,for lights ,frig tv,etc(no 220 v) then you have to have an heavy duty cord to go from gen to switch over box.I finely did get a 5500 watt at home depo.With the switch over box protects you and linemen ,you do not feed power down line.
You can wire the coach to feed this panel ,but do it right if not you can cause a fire or kill your self.Just be safe.The extension cord with 2 male ends ,not a good idea.
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Old 10-28-2014, 08:15 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by Steve N Sal View Post
You know I've stayed away from this thread for some obvious reasons but maybe it's time to share something. Maybe some of you have not had the safety training and if you have maybe you slept thru the course (I don't know). This is a dangerous trade and respect of it is of the utmost importance. I have always taken it seriously not just for myself but for anyone who works alongside of me or any customers that I have serviced.
It's been mentioned that maybe I was "LUCKY" to have found the contacts in a breaker sticking. No it wasn't LUCK, I was just doing what each an everyone of you should do. NOT TAKE ANYTHING FOR GRANTED. I don't know if I mentioned this before but I have found this more then once. Do you really think that everything is fail safe? If you do you're badly mistaken. For this to happen a breaker does NOT have to be in a industrial environment nor does it have to be struck by lightning. It can happen just in the process from the manufacturer as a faulty item. I'm not a roll of the dice electrician. If you are so be it but don't ever condemn someone who is thorough in there work. I'll leave it at that and I'm including a page from one of my safety classes. Take the time to read first two paragraphs. You can click the image to enlarge it. Take care and be safe!

From one sparky to another well said
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Old 10-28-2014, 09:48 AM   #74
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I agree Steve N Sal, the chances of energizing the lines is not worth the convenience of flipping a switch. In a power outage, move into the RV and string a couple of extension cords to refrigerators or freezers. Also, if needed, a space heater to keep things from freezing. To expect to run your house from a 120 v RV generator is a bit extreme.

Used to be people went camping to enjoy 'roughing it' so they could appreciate the comforts of home when they returned. Now with RVs tricked out fancier than 98% of the world's population living conditions some folks can't handle the inconvenience of a short term power outage.
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Old 11-04-2014, 03:56 AM   #75
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What I haven't seen here is the fact that the RV's power system and generator are not the same as the average home. Your home has a three-wire 220VAC feed with two hot wires and a grounded neutral and the 110V circuits are taken from both sides of that feed to the neutral wire. The RV is 110VAC only. While it might be possible to feed certain circuits in the home from an RV generator, none of the 220VAC equipment would work (AC, water heater, Range, Dryer etc), and feeding certain 110VAC loads would require some complex electrical equipment to do safely.

It would almost surely cost more in modifications to the RV and the home's electrical system to tie in the RV safely to a home than to just buy a 220VAC generator for the home and power the whole thing. Even if you did, several of your major 220VAC load could not be supplied.
I agree and that's coming from being an instrument/electrician for 40 years
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Old 11-04-2014, 09:06 AM   #76
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I will point out this: I have read posts from people who say something like "I will never forget to pull the main breaker before I backfeed cross my heart and hope to die" Well bully for them.. But let me paint a picture (of death).

They are out and about, Perhaps at a doctor's appointment or at work (Seems power fails always happened when i was at work, or in one case church).

Someone else remembers "Last power fail dad did this" and plugs in the death cord. Fires up the genny and ZAP. Kills a line man, or the generator, or both, because they FORGOT to pull the breaker.

Do it right or do not do it at all.. I described right in another post but to recap.

On house: Install a proper transfer system.. There are many to choose from, one goes between the meter and the meter box so the power company does the actual install for you (takes like 2 minutes).

use a proper cord with an OUTLET on the house end to plug into the INLET on the house.

And play safe.

I used a transfer panel so I could select which loads transfered, this allowed me to not transfer 240 volt loads (Since the RV was 120 only) and to not transfer a key indicator light we almost never used (Save during power fails) so i could tell when power was restored.
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Old 11-05-2014, 11:53 AM   #77
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The reason this could happen is because the contacts within the breaker may stick on one side or possibly both sides and not open the circuit.
Does the NEC allow Interlocks in all 50 States or the majority thereof?
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Old 11-05-2014, 05:28 PM   #78
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Does the NEC allow Interlocks in all 50 States or the majority thereof?

The Nec is just the guid line that each local governments use to set there standard. Some have rules that are stricter. None that I know have rules that are less than Nec.
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Old 11-05-2014, 05:38 PM   #79
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Cool Very simple....

This subject is very simple to sort out.......
The OP has a Motorcoach....$$$$$$$$
FORGET the Coach to "power your house"!
If needed, use the Fridge..........
"Buy" A GENERATOR to properly power your house or the needed outlets up during a power failure......and install the "PROPER" automatic transfer switch to eliminate "human" Failure........
You will have a lot less money in this backup....setup, than you have tied up in your Motorcoach........and you won't have to rely on it to do a job it was not designed to do......... JMHO......
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Old 11-05-2014, 05:57 PM   #80
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Off hand it rather depends on both how big your MH and house are and how often you expect to need it. If I lived somewhere where long power outages were fairly frequent I might invest in a transfer switch an a genset for the house. As it stands if the power goes off for more than a day I will probably go down an pop out a couple of breakers so I can power up the furnace, a few lights and the freezer and refrigerator. It's been 15 years since I last needed to think about it so no hurry. The camper has everything I need the first day and most days. ;-)
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Old 11-05-2014, 06:46 PM   #81
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The Nec is just the guid line that each local governments use to set there standard. Some have rules that are stricter. None that I know have rules that are less than Nec.
Poorly worded on my part, what I meant to ask/say is if the NEC is the minimum guideline for every State and they approve the Interlock as an option, then I don't know why people are getting so pigheaded about this version/option of backfeeding.
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Old 11-05-2014, 07:38 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by nothermark View Post
Off hand it rather depends on both how big your MH and house are and how often you expect to need it. If I lived somewhere where long power outages were fairly frequent I might invest in a transfer switch an a genset for the house. As it stands if the power goes off for more than a day I will probably go down an pop out a couple of breakers so I can power up the furnace, a few lights and the freezer and refrigerator. It's been 15 years since I last needed to think about it so no hurry. The camper has everything I need the first day and most days. ;-)
Here's a video that shows how to hook up your home furnace to your RV generator when needed. It does take a bit of preparation, but not much in the way of parts, so I wouldn't wait until the power was out a few days.



It's a long video, but thorough. NOTE: Since your RV generator is 120 v, you can NOT power a home electric furnace, heat pump, or whole house air conditioner. Those types of heat are 240 v. Also make sure your home thermostat is powered from a transformer powered through the furnace. If it is wired differently, the thermostat will not have power to control the furnace.
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Old 11-05-2014, 08:05 PM   #83
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A dead man's cord is a very dangerous thing to have around.
And that "method" is against the law in most states. To use a genset to power the entire house a separate disconnect device must be installed and used on the incoming power line. Simply throwing the main panel breaker is not sufficient.
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Old 11-06-2014, 04:13 AM   #84
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Poorly worded on my part, what I meant to ask/say is if the NEC is the minimum guideline for every State and they approve the Interlock as an option, then I don't know why people are getting so pigheaded about this version/option of backfeeding.

Me either other than money. My self if and when we loose power I just run cords to the things I need
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