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Old 08-04-2014, 09:07 AM   #1
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Bad Panel?

I am a newbee in the worst case. Never owned a motor home before and I now have a 93 Kountry Star 34 foot, gas, money pit.
Problem
All was working fine. Both itellitec battery disconnects were working.
Generator was on.
Cabin lights, air conditioner on.
generator stopped. Will not restart.
I shut everything off.
Engine would not start.
Jumpered accross the coach solinoid and jumped the motorhome off a friends truck.
I found a blown 5amp fuse on the chassie solinoid. That works and the egine starts great.
I have two panels. One is on the dash, simple USE/STORE.
One is over the side door, in addition it has voltage monitors.
Coach solinoid light is on on both switchs. Fuses on both side of solinoid are good. I replaced solinoid.
Nothing happens when I hit ether coach switchs. No power to the coach. Light never goes out.
I jumpered + battery to the out side of the coach solinoid and have power in the coach.
Generator will not start. I am at about a quarter of a tank of gas. Funky gas gage.
Two bad Coach side switch panels?
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:12 AM   #2
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Does the Genny crank and not start?
Generators usually run out of gas at the quarter tank Mark. This keeps them from draining the fuel tank.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:24 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fl_Richard View Post
Does the Genny crank and not start?
Generators usually run out of gas at the quarter tank Mark. This keeps them from draining the fuel tank.
X2

Best place to start...pardon the pun...troubleshooting.

Add fuel and see if that fixes problem.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:28 AM   #4
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Bad Panel?

The genny does not even try to start.
I'll put some more gas in tonight.
I am more concerned wth the Battery disconnect switch malfunction. Any Ideas?
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:43 AM   #5
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The battery disconnects are just big relays. Basic relay troubleshooting is a check for voltage at the relay terminals, the little trigger terminal that activates it and the (usually larger) wires/terminals that feed power in and out. You can jumper across the big relay power terminals to see if it is what is blocking the electrical flow.
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Old 08-04-2014, 10:14 AM   #6
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Welcome to irv2 Bob.
Here is a Brochure and 1997
Owners Guide for you.
Here for reference is a link to 12v wiring and fusing.
Here is a Tech link with info on batteries and more.
Here is the Bird System if you have one.
Here is a thread of battery hookups older coach.
Here is link to different controllers if you click on pictures will see diagrams for hook ups.
In my signature are links to many more items that may apply to your MH.
As everyone has said need more gas in your tank for Gen especially if your gage has a problem which could be poor grounding to chassis frame for dash or battery & Gen ground connections to chassis frame.
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Old 08-04-2014, 10:14 AM   #7
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Gary,
Ther is 12 volts from the battery on the supply (right) side. No voltage on the service side (left). The USE/STORE switch on the panel will not affect it to the USE posistion, although the light remains on as if it were.
I have applied + voltage directly from the batteries to the service side (left) of the solinoid. I now have coach power.

Will it hurt the solinoid if I apply 12 volts to one or the other trigger post to make it switch?
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Old 08-04-2014, 10:44 AM   #8
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This link for reference shows the internals of your solenoids.
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Old 08-04-2014, 12:15 PM   #9
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If it doesn't crank it's not fuel
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Old 08-04-2014, 12:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
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If it doesn't crank it's not fuel
Yep...I didn't quite understand that from the OP first post.
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Old 08-04-2014, 12:35 PM   #11
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Apply + voltage to trigger post on solenoid to see if it activates. Some solenoids pick up ground through mounting bracket, others have 2 trigger posts, one for ground and the other for + trigger voltage. Meter them to see which one is + and which one is negative. apply+ 12 volts to positive trigger.
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Old 08-04-2014, 01:07 PM   #12
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Things I know.
generator does not crank.
by-passing the solinoid gives me power to the coach.
Steps go down when i open the door with or without chassi switch on USE.
Steps will not go up unless I turn the ingnition switch.
New solinoid is cont duty but may not stay closed automaticly. It does not have the cone that the original had that has the locking mech.
I left the original cone in the system because it has the fuses mounted to it.
Fuses are all good.
Intellitec discontinued trouble shooting guide.
Disconnecting one or other switch panels makes no differance.
I need help to test the trigger switchs to see if they are suppling 12 volts to switch solinoid. But my feeling is that both Coach USE/STORE switches are bad.
I do not understand the genny not cranking or the steps not retracting.
Comments?
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Old 08-04-2014, 01:12 PM   #13
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Paul,
I did apply voltage to solinoid triggers. Both directions. It clacks, but I dont think it holds closed. Prolly the wrong style solinoid. The original one I took out does the same thing though.

I didnt see your post before I wrote the my last one.
thanks
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Old 08-05-2014, 09:18 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoBScott View Post
Paul,
I did apply voltage to solinoid triggers. Both directions. It clacks, but I dont think it holds closed. Prolly the wrong style solinoid. The original one I took out does the same thing though.

I didnt see your post before I wrote the my last one.
thanks
Bob, the main power disconnect solenoid is a special type called a latching solenoid. It locks into place when momentary power is applied to the "on" side and stays connected until power is applied to the "off" side to unlatch it. That way it does not drain 12volt power by staying "hot" all the time with power to the coil. A standard solenoid requires power applied to the coil all the time.

I don't know about yours, but my MH steps are powered from the chassis battery, not the coach batteries. The generator is powered from the coach batteries and the main disconnect must be on for it to crank.
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