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Old 05-04-2013, 11:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KSCRUDE View Post
I did test the new Bilsteins on a new coach. Took them off at 700 miles. They rode rough as hell for the whole 700 miles. Then put on a set of Konies and it was like night and day. My banging has all but stopped. The Bilsteins weigh about 5 pounds each. Pick up a Koni. About 12 pounds. It's not your tires, its the cheap Bilstein shocks. The only reason they put them on new rigs is because they are cheap.
Did you contact Bilstein about the bad ride? I'm quite certain they would have provided you with softer riding shocks. The frustration with Bilstein is that they make different ride quality shocks. The standard Bilstein shock will be very harsh riding to provide very tight handling. Some prefer that. The new Comfort shocks will provide quite a nice ride, (some say comparable to a Koni shock). The tradeoff will be softer handling. Some prefer that.

I've been through this, removing Bilstein shocks that rode terrible, installing new Bilstein shocks that ride just fine.

The other issue, as has been discussed, is the tire pressure. In my case, the load H tires were a problem for my coach with a light front end. Switching to load G tires, and adjusting the tire pressure to match the weight, along with the new Bilstein shocks, provided an excellent ride.
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:26 AM   #16
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Jim, talking to Bilsteins RV shock engineer at a FMCA rally was educational on your exact problem. For your year Monaco and up to about 2001/2002 models Monaco specified that they wanted performance based shocks vice comfort shocks. He actually named the person at Monaco that was responsible for that decision. These performance valved shocks are stiffer and harsher riding than the later comfort valved shocks as you have correctly stated. The Monaco specified Bilstein replacement shocks were also the performance shocks as originally installed and as you found out Bilstein also had a comfort shock but nobody ever tells us this. You found out the hard way. The Monaco's after 2002 that had Bilsteins on them were the comfort valved shocks.

I think that is interesting that some people think Bilsteins are a cheap shock when in fact they are considered a premium shock and are installed as original equipment on the upper level motorhomes. I have had Bilsteins on two motorhomes and also on my Wrangler. One of the big problems is that cheap Monroe shocks are also yellow as are Bilsteins so people see yellow shocks on their bad riding motorhome and assume they are Bilsteins. Monaco switched to Monroe's on their motorhomes because they were cheap and Monaco used Bilsteins on there upper level. Most if not all Monaco's with the four shock suspension systems had the horrible Monroe's. the Monroe shocks are yellow on the bottom cylinder and yellow on the upper mrtal dust cover and Bilsteins are yellow on the bottom cylinder but have a blue rubber upper dust cover.
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:48 AM   #17
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Some of you might find this test report out of Motorhome magazine interesting. As stated they couldn't really tell the difference in ride quality between the top three brands of shocks.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Shock Testing.pdf (2.55 MB, 35 views)
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Old 05-05-2013, 09:09 AM   #18
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Thanks Mike,

This all looks very pertinent to my post last night "poor handling and rough ride". Though you stated they could not really tell the difference in ride, it appears they think the Konis are way stiffer on rough roads. That is our problem, and we have Blisteins which should be better.

Followed various threads in this forum and it sounds dismal - class A motorhomes shake, rattle and jar.....

This is not the impression I got when talking with RV people at parks and how they liked the Class A way better than Class C. That is one reason we "upgraded". Maybe only people complain on forums when the ride is rough.

Anyone know how I can tell if the Blisteins we have on our 2007 Winnebago Voyage 35A are factory or not?
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Old 05-05-2013, 09:28 AM   #19
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At 16000 miles I just changed mine. They too are monroes but not yellow. They were covered by undercoating and I didn't know the brand until removed. I just changed them yesterday so don't have any road time on them yet. The old ones were obviously bad. I found Bilsteins built and tested for my model. I can tell just walking around inside that things are more solid. I installed sway bars last year and didn't want to spend the money on shocks too. Probably should have.

I see on that Bilstein brochure mention about a setting.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...9&d=1367712198

Are these adjustable for each model coach?


YC1, which part number did you install? Did you put the same ones
all the way around?
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Old 05-05-2013, 10:00 AM   #20
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This dealer/supplier is giving a different part number for the Roadmaster RR8R

I assume there are several Bilstein part numbers for my chassis, is that correct?

http://www.eshocks.com/bil_veh.asp?M...=All&SubChar=Q
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Old 05-05-2013, 10:08 AM   #21
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This dealer/supplier is giving a different part number for the Roadmaster RR8R

I assume there are several Bilstein part numbers for my chassis, is that correct?

http://www.eshocks.com/bil_veh.asp?M...=All&SubChar=Q
You are correct. You need to visually check whether the top mount is an eye mount or a stud mount. On mine, they made changes around the time it was built and eshocks needed to know to identify which one I needed.
It is also likely that the fronts and rears are different.
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Old 05-05-2013, 10:18 AM   #22
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After my experience with FSD's which was bad, I can only conclude that the accolades about FSD's has more to do with the "HERD" mentality that is exhibited on most internet RV forums. On my MH the ride improvement was non-exhistant; their longevity was less than 2 years had wear problems generally associated with worn out suspension (replaced the FSD's and replaced the two front tires and 3 years and 15K later no abnormal wear patterns) and found out that the lifetime warranty was essentially junk. Of course your mileage may vary.
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Old 05-05-2013, 10:24 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Canter View Post
Jim, talking to Bilsteins RV shock engineer at a FMCA rally was educational on your exact problem. For your year Monaco and up to about 2001/2002 models Monaco specified that they wanted performance based shocks vice comfort shocks. He actually named the person at Monaco that was responsible for that decision. These performance valved shocks are stiffer and harsher riding than the later comfort valved shocks as you have correctly stated. The Monaco specified Bilstein replacement shocks were also the performance shocks as originally installed and as you found out Bilstein also had a comfort shock but nobody ever tells us this. You found out the hard way. The Monaco's after 2002 that had Bilsteins on them were the comfort valved shocks.

I think that is interesting that some people think Bilsteins are a cheap shock when in fact they are considered a premium shock and are installed as original equipment on the upper level motorhomes. I have had Bilsteins on two motorhomes and also on my Wrangler. One of the big problems is that cheap Monroe shocks are also yellow as are Bilsteins so people see yellow shocks on their bad riding motorhome and assume they are Bilsteins. Monaco switched to Monroe's on their motorhomes because they were cheap and Monaco used Bilsteins on there upper level. Most if not all Monaco's with the four shock suspension systems had the horrible Monroe's. the Monroe shocks are yellow on the bottom cylinder and yellow on the upper mrtal dust cover and Bilsteins are yellow on the bottom cylinder but have a blue rubber upper dust cover.
I agree with you Mike.....I have Bilsteins on mine and ordered brand new replacements to put on. With research and "Proof In Hand" they don't appear to be a cheap/poor product as stated. With the design I think they rank right up there with the Koni's.
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Old 05-05-2013, 10:38 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by bukzin View Post
I see on that Bilstein brochure mention about a setting.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...9&d=1367712198

Are these adjustable for each model coach?


YC1, which part number did you install? Did you put the same ones
all the way around?

I installed the specific shocks shown. Two different part numbers for front and back. No selection for ride. Simple shock built and road tested in the Sacramentoi area. I suspect they drove them through Stockton. Pothole nightmare zone.

One thought on the banging. Is his model part of the TRAILING ARM issue?

These shocks compress with about 150 lbs and then extend slowly. Not like many shocks I have dealt with in the past. Most shocks I have dealt with on other RV's were near impossible to compress without some assistance such as a floor jack or ratchet.

Maybe I will take it for a road test today. For reference I have the sway bars from Source, ride height set, tires aired to specs, front end aligned, and took my safe-t-plus off.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Specific Shock.pdf (12.9 KB, 30 views)
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Old 05-05-2013, 05:07 PM   #25
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One thought on the banging. Is his model part of the TRAILING ARM issue?
Don't think so. That was limited to the 4-bag chassis. I believe his 2003 40ft Endeavor is the same as my Beaver. Should be on the RR8R chassis.
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:19 PM   #26
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Had a 37' Damon Challenger with the workhorse W22 chassis and drove across the US with stock Monroes, and it had a harsh ride. We cringed at expansion joints or uneven pavement. Put Koni FSD's on in Oregon and the ride back was incredibly better, we just enjoyed the drive so much more. We eventually also installed Sumo Springs and that helped with cornering and leaning in turns.
Other things I would check are the steering by "rocking" the wheel and checking for play. You can also jack up each front tire and check for play by trying to find play at top and bottom and side to side of the wheels. If you feel anything loose you may have worn bushings or other steering component problems.
I would also weigh it as someone else suggested and then look up tire pressure charts which will give you the desired pressure. As an example, if the recommended pressure for your loaded weight is 85psi and the tires are rated up to 100psi I would start with tires at 95 psi and work my way down to 85psi in 5lb decreases to see which pressure feels the best withe the rig loaded the way you would travel. Never run below the recommended pressure. I always run a bit higher than the recommended pressure or higher if the rig feels better at the higher pressure. I also have a temp gun ($35 at Lowes) and shoot tire and hub temps when I stop, that will tell you if a tire is running hot, or you have any hub/bearing trouble brewing.
If the rig wanders you should have alignment checked. I talked to a few people who had "true track"? and swore by it. I can't comment since I have no reference point. Good luck.
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:01 PM   #27
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Agree on the koni,s worth every penny
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Old 05-09-2013, 11:21 PM   #28
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We have a high end coach with Koni shocks and it weighs 42,000 lbs. Rides smooth on good roads. On some California roads it gets rough. It may be your coach is normal.
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