Batteries

[Tjclarke696]

Ok just now realizing after3 weeks that a: my coach batteries are not deep cycle but just oversized truck batteries (no big deal really as I don't dry camp but will change out in the near future and
B: I think the coach and stater batteries are reversed (hooked up by previous owner) the positive from what should be the starter battery goes to a terminal with several other cables coming off it. Also the starter battery is losing its charge after a few days. I've attached a picture for some clarity.

[Mr_D]

The Duracell Ultra at the top of the picture isn't even hooked up. Have you disconnected it?
The other two are hooked up correctly for best power for 12V batteries. Positive off one battery, negative off the other and jumpers in between.

[JohnBoyToo]

Scary somebody was being cheap !

I'm guessing from the pic, but the ones that are hooked up don't look hooked up correctly.

I would go by a battery shop and ask them what they recommend , THEN I would worry how my inverter/charger is set up as I'll be it isn't set correctly for the amp-hrs you have...

Once it's rewired - take a picture and save it

good luck

[Tjclarke696]

Originally Posted by Mr_D

The Duracell Ultra at the top of the picture isn't even hooked up. Have you disconnected it?
The other two are hooked up correctly for best power if they are 12V batteries. Positive off one battery, negative of the other and jumpers in between.

The Duracell is hooked up to the side terminal

[Tjclarke696]

Originally Posted by JohnBoyToo

Scary

Do you mind expanding on the scary comment?

[biggcrisp]

Disconnect the Duracell completely and let us know if it starts?

[Tjclarke696]

Originally Posted by JohnBoyToo

Scary somebody was being cheap !

I'm guessing from the pic, but the ones that are hooked up don't look hooked up correctly.

I would go by a battery shop and ask them what they recommend , THEN I would worry how my inverter/charger is set up as I'll be it isn't set correctly for the amp-hrs you have...

Once it's rewired - take a picture and save it

good luck

From what Mr_D said and what I garnered on here and the internet the 2 coach batteries are hooked together correctly.

[Tjclarke696]

Originally Posted by biggcrisp

Disconnect the Duracell completely and let us know if it starts?

Bingo. Batteries are correct. The smaller Duracell is the starter battery (don't know why I didn't think of this myself). Question now is why after sitting for a day or two is it losing its charge? It's only a month old. By the way thanks for the help biggcrisp!

[Jim_HiTek]

Note that many hundreds of thousands of RVs have no provision for charging up the chassis batteries while you're parked and connected to shore power. Except for a totally worthless optional roof top mounted 8-10 watt solar panel (providing a measly 0.8 amps of charging in full sunlight).

With a digital meter, measure the voltages across the battery sets once you've figured out which is which set, before you plug into shore power. Then plug in. The voltage on the house batts should go from 12.3 or so up to 13.8 as the converter starts charging it. Wait a couple minutes and then measure the voltage of the chassis batts.

If that voltage has not increased, then you need something like the Trik-L-Start device which takes a bit of the charge from the house batts and keeps the chassis batts charged while you're parked. Simple to install, works great, never have to worry about it again. I limped along with weak chassis batts for years, using the dash mounted AUX switch to start the rig. Other than having to do that, no big deal.

[rdrv831]

I installed a Trik-L-Start to keep my chassis battery charged from my house battery bank. I also have solar on the roof too.


Trik-L-Start was easy to install.

[Tjclarke696]

Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek

Note that many hundreds of thousands of RVs have no provision for charging up the chassis batteries while you're parked and connected to shore power. Except for a totally worthless optional roof top mounted 8-10 watt solar panel (providing a measly 0.8 amps of charging in full sunlight).

With a digital meter, measure the voltages across the battery sets once you've figured out which is which set, before you plug into shore power. Then plug in. The voltage on the house batts should go from 12.3 or so up to 13.8 as the converter starts charging it. Wait a couple minutes and then measure the voltage of the chassis batts.

If that voltage has not increased, then you need something like the Trik-L-Start device which takes a bit of the charge from the house batts and keeps the chassis batts charged while you're parked. Simple to install, works great, never have to worry about it again. I limped along with weak chassis batts for years, using the dash mounted AUX switch to start the rig. Other than having to do that, no big deal.

Thanks Jim. I'll have to check it out tomorrow. Heading out the door for clams and beers for Father's Day. Happy Father's Day everyone. Thanks for the help so far.

[nothermark]

Agreed with the trik l start. That also depends on what you are running out of the dash connections. Anything plugged into the cigar lighter will run the battery down faster. Ditto running the radio for entertainment when parked or leaving the running lights on at nights.

You do have the wrong type house batteries *but* they may be enough to get you through the night. If you seldom dry camp you can wait until they become a problem then get better batteries to replace them. I'd try a driveway overnight and see what happened. That or a night at a park where all I had to do was walk out and plug in.

[Jim_HiTek]

Meanwhile, to prevent fully discharging the chassis batts, just disconnect the ground until you can get a Trik-L-Start or other means of keeping it charged. There are numerous phantom loads on them, but yeah, as mentioned, the radio is the biggest draw when playing tunes.

[Tjclarke696]

Originally Posted by nothermark

Agreed with the trik l start. That also depends on what you are running out of the dash connections. Anything plugged into the cigar lighter will run the battery down faster. Ditto running the radio for entertainment when parked or leaving the running lights on at nights.

You do have the wrong type house batteries *but* they may be enough to get you through the night. If you seldom dry camp you can wait until they become a problem then get better batteries to replace them. I'd try a driveway overnight and see what happened. That or a night at a park where all I had to do was walk out and plug in.

If I run the radio while in the coach I use the coach batteries. I really don't understand what else might be drawing from the engine battery.
As far as replacing the coach batteries I figured the same thing. Since I don't plan on dry camping that much, there at the bottom of my list for now. I used them quite a bit in the driveway the last 2 weeks and they didn't seem to discharge much.