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Old 06-22-2014, 11:29 AM   #15
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I printed out the troubleshooting document for the BCC and found the first few paragraphs state that both batteries should be charged. The truck battery is charged but the coach batteries are not.

I am considering replacing both six volt with twelve volt deep cycle marine/rv batteries. They are less expensive and easier to find.
GC-2 six volts deep cycle batteries are NOT difficult to find. Costco and Sam's Club each sells a very good GC-2 battery. Tow of them would most likely be cheaper than two 12volt marine/RV batteries, and MUCH better for the task at hand. Marine/RV 12volt batteries are NOT true deep cycle batteries, they are hybrid engine start batteries.

Yes, your house batteries should charge from the engine alternator and your chassis battery should also charge from the converter on shore power. Following the steps in the RV-CP Guide should lead you directly to the problem.

The quick guess would be that your Isolation/aux start/cross charge solenoid is defective. It's located behind the circuit board in the BCC.
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Old 06-22-2014, 11:42 AM   #16
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your house batteries should charge from the engine alternator and your chassis battery should also charge from the converter on shore power.
loulong
Is that true of all 1999 Bounders?
Wondering
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Old 06-22-2014, 12:06 PM   #17
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If you keep solving the problem at the battery terminal connections from your first few posts, haven't you found the problem?
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Old 06-23-2014, 05:03 PM   #18
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Purchased two new 6 volt batteries yesterday at Sams. Generator would start motorhome would start every time. Had no problems. Drove the motorhome to the lake, about 30 miles each way, ran flawlessly. Started everytime without any problems.

Took the old batteries to Interstate batter to check them. They say they are good but need to be full charged. The old batteries are only 2 months old.

They will charge them for me for free. Now I need to find out why the inverter is not charging the coach batteries.

loulong

"The quick guess would be that your Isolation/aux start/cross charge solenoid is defective. It's located behind the circuit board in the BCC."

Is this the silver solenoid or the black ones?
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:33 PM   #19
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Kinda sounds like you may have 15 year old solenoids like I have.

With the RV plugged in @home or camp you should measure 13.5+ at both battery locations. If not you may have the corroded solenoid issue. Same when engine running after several minutes. Both battery banks should have access to charging. If you are not monitoring this with a voltmeter then you really don't know what's happenin'....lotsa interesting reading here in the archives. Get to know how the system works. It's not complicated. Until you do guessing won't improve your situation.

Older MH's use the single disconnect BIRD circuit. Several of us have fixed this malfunction by replacing these solenoids. Check across the solenoids for 13.5vdc after 15 mins when you're charging...the solenoid with the drop is prob'ly the defective one. The pwb delays the charging circuit a short time.
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:48 PM   #20
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Purchased two new 6 volt batteries yesterday at Sams. Generator would start motorhome would start every time. Had no problems. Drove the motorhome to the lake, about 30 miles each way, ran flawlessly. Started everytime without any problems.

Took the old batteries to Interstate batter to check them. They say they are good but need to be full charged. The old batteries are only 2 months old.

They will charge them for me for free. Now I need to find out why the inverter is not charging the coach batteries.

loulong

"The quick guess would be that your Isolation/aux start/cross charge solenoid is defective. It's located behind the circuit board in the BCC."

Is this the silver solenoid or the black ones?
The silver one.
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:24 AM   #21
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loulong is correct...when I've had this solenoid/relay malfunction I have loosened one of the smaller coil wires and allowed the relay to "chatter" which may correct the problem for a while...the inner contacts are "dirty". Replacing the relay will FIX the issue. I'm traveling now and I jus' haven't had the problem for months so I continue to put-off the replacement like I do yearly April 15th payments. It's a well known personality defect.

This relay is easily replaced and available from sources online shipped to your door.

Expect to find these relays warm to the touch...this is normal when attached to power.
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:51 AM   #22
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I have found the solenoid online but am going to try and find it locally.

I found some detailed info online on the steps to replace the solenoid. It is very detailed. I can share that here if others are interested. I have the link saved on my home computer. I can add it to this post tonight.

The replacement recommended is a Cole Hersee Company Continuously Duty Solenoid Part No. 24059.

dwhit - I will try the chatter option to see if it helps.

Just got off the phone with Fleewood and they say if the coach batteries are completely discharged plugging them into my home circuit is not enough to charge them. The motorhome must be plugged into a 30AMP circuit to allow enough current to charge the batteries.

I will check this out this weekend while camping.

Thanks,
Pat
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Old 06-24-2014, 08:41 PM   #23
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Went to check out the charging system for the coach batteries with the generator running today. The battery voltage at the new batteries was 12.6 volts with out the generator running. Let the generator run about thirty mins,,, checked the battery voltage again with DVM and measured 12.6 volts.

It was raining so I did not open the BCC cover and check the solenoid.

Will do tomorrow if the darn thing starts.

It would not crank over at all today. Sunday it work every time when we started it. Chassis battery had 12.6 volts on it. Will go back to tomorrow and trace out the ground from the battery to see if it is loose.

would like to go camping this weekend but not sure now.
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Old 06-25-2014, 09:51 AM   #24
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I wouldn't think if I were checking the voltage supplied to MY battery banks that 12.5vdc was adequate with genset running, RV plugged-in to power OR chassis engine running.

I would be looking for 13.2-13.5 at LEAST, and any reading LOWER than that would indicate a charging system problem.

If I were at YOUR place right now, I'd be on AC power, genset or engine idling and read voltages at chassis battery and coach battery bank. ANYTHING less than 13.2 to 13.5vdc at either location is a problem. Battery cannot "charge" at 12.6vdc.

I'm at a KOA right now in NY visiting for the month of June. I have desulphators blinking at me at both battery locations. Blinking lite says I have 13.2+vdc and I am desulphating. This is the best condition one can have in the 12 volt world.
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Old 06-25-2014, 10:29 AM   #25
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Went to check out the charging system for the coach batteries with the generator running today. The battery voltage at the new batteries was 12.6 volts with out the generator running. Let the generator run about thirty mins,,, checked the battery voltage again with DVM and measured 12.6 volts.

It was raining so I did not open the BCC cover and check the solenoid.

Will do tomorrow if the darn thing starts.

It would not crank over at all today. Sunday it work every time when we started it. Chassis battery had 12.6 volts on it. Will go back to tomorrow and trace out the ground from the battery to see if it is loose.

would like to go camping this weekend but not sure now.
Like dwhit said, your batteries are NOT getting any charge from the converter when the generator is running. 12.6 is NOT enough to charge the batteries. The converter should be putting out at least 13.2 (probably about 13.6)

BUT, the isolator solenoid is NOT in the circuit under these conditions. If you have the battery switch (by the entry door) set to turn the batteries ON, and the circuit breakers in the BCC are reset (little black buttons in their base are pushed in), your batteries should charge.

I am assuming that you know that your converter is putting out voltage to light your interior lights, etc.. when running the generator.
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Old 06-25-2014, 12:25 PM   #26
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The floresent lights work and the other lights work.

Fleewood said to check the convertor. It is located under the refrigerator behind a panel.

I will check it out tonight.

As it was yesterday the coach would not turn over to start. Chassis battery has 12.7V but will not engage the starter.

Going to check into it further this evening.
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Old 06-25-2014, 01:04 PM   #27
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As it was yesterday the coach would not turn over to start. Chassis battery has 12.7V but will not engage the starter.

.
Chassis Battery switch is off?
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Old 06-25-2014, 08:39 PM   #28
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I think I found the problem. I had two problems but I did not know it.

First, once I found the convertor, it had one fuse blown. I replaced both fuses with new. Both are 30amp. I now have the coach plugged in and the coach batteries have 13.7VDC on them. The inverter is now charging. Thanks loulong.

The second problem is what MRT 1111 mentioned about the marine, wing nut, terminal on the chassis battery. All I did at this time is remove it and clean the connections. There are three cables attached to the terminal. I am going to check at the auto stores and see what type of terminal I can use to replace it.

Thanks to all for their input. I now know a lot more about the motor home and how the battery control center works. I actually called RV Products today and spoke to John who was very helpful.

I believe the BCC is working properly. I have not tried the aux start switch yet.

Right now I am content with the battery charging on the coach.

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