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Old 06-25-2014, 09:36 PM   #29
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I think I found the problem. I had two problems but I did not know it.

First, once I found the convertor, it had one fuse blown. I replaced both fuses with new. Both are 30amp. I now have the coach plugged in and the coach batteries have 13.7VDC on them. The inverter is now charging. Thanks loulong.

The second problem is what MRT 1111 mentioned about the marine, wing nut, terminal on the chassis battery. All I did at this time is remove it and clean the connections. There are three cables attached to the terminal. I am going to check at the auto stores and see what type of terminal I can use to replace it.

Thanks to all for their input. I now know a lot more about the motor home and how the battery control center works. I actually called RV Products today and spoke to John who was very helpful.

I believe the BCC is working properly. I have not tried the aux start switch yet.

Right now I am content with the battery charging on the coach.

Good show.
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Old 06-26-2014, 08:26 AM   #30
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Chassis Battery switch is off?

Will it not start with the chassis battery switch off? I not sure if I have tried that.

Thanks deandec.
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Old 06-26-2014, 08:35 PM   #31
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Checked coach batteries tonite and DMM is reading 13.2VDC.

Will the converter reduce the charging amps as the batteries come to full charge?

Should I unplug the coach after a few days to keep from overcharging the coach batteries?
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Old 06-27-2014, 10:47 AM   #32
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Checked coach batteries tonite and DMM is reading 13.2VDC.

Will the converter reduce the charging amps as the batteries come to full charge?

Should I unplug the coach after a few days to keep from overcharging the coach batteries?
13.2v is a good float voltage level. Keep an eye on the electrolyte (water) level by checking it every few weeks/months and you should be fine. If the float voltage has dropped to 13.2v, that already says the batteries have reached a good charge and have throttled back their need for heavy current. At this stage, it's the converter that controls the voltage, but the batteries determine the current flow needs.
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Old 06-27-2014, 10:53 AM   #33
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Will it not start with the chassis battery switch off? I not sure if I have tried that.

Thanks deandec.
That depends on the release level of you BCC circuit board. CB-115 rev. "D" added the circuitry to automatically activate both battery banks (turn OFF the disconnects) when the ignition is turned to RUN. Previous levels required use of the switches by the entry door to activate/deactivate the disconnects.
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:02 PM   #34
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Went to start the coach today and it would not start. It had been setting since Saturday without being plugged in and with both battery switches disconnected.

The wife was trying to start it but it would not crank. I told her to push the two battery switches to engage the batteries. She was calling me on the phone. I could hear the propane monitor beeping when she pushed the switches but the engine would not crank over.

When I got there I turned off the battery switches and then turned them back on. The aux switch would engage the solenoid, I could hear it pull in, the main switch would not engage the solenoid.

I plugged the coach in to 120V power waited less than a minute and heard a relay/solenoid switch over. Then the coach started.

For some reason the main battery switch will not engage the relay to allow the engine to crank over and start.

It has set for about 30 to 45 mins with both battery switches disconnected and I went to try it again. It would not crank over. This I think is normal with both switches in the disconnect position.

I pushed the switches to energize the solenoid. The aux solenoid energized but the main switch would not energize the main solenoid.

I proceeded to start the generator. It started and soon after I was able to energize the main solenoid. I could hear it pull in.

The engine would then crank over and start.

I left the main battery energized and will see tomorrow if it starts.

The aux battery is disconnected and the main battery is still connected.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:32 PM   #35
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Today the motor home would not even start or turn over. The main battery switch would not engage the solenoid for the chassis battery.

I checked all the connections, fuses, relays, etc. found nothing. I did follow the chassis battery negative battery cable it ran along the front of the motorhome and then went back towards the coach batteries.

I wonder if it is a separate ground to the frame. I did find the negative connection from the coach batteries to the frame. Tomorrow I will disconnect it and clean it up to see if it makes any difference.
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Old 07-09-2014, 02:08 PM   #36
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I found a temporary fix for the engine starting. Since the chassis battery isolation relay is not closing, either from the switch or by jumping 12VDC to terminal #1 and #2 on P2 on the circuit board, no power is connected to terminal P13 on the BCC. This is required to power up the ignition and allow the engine to start.

I placed a jumper from the battery chassis battery terminal on the BCC to terminal P13 on the BCC. The engine cranked right up and started.

As an experiment I pulled off my jumper while the engine was running, the engine died. This is part of a recall on certain manufactures motor homes.

This could be a problem if you are driving down the road and the isolation relay switches over. The engine would die while driving down the road.

I am going to jumper power from the chassis battery terminal on the BCC and order an replacement isolation relay to replace the defective one.
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Old 07-09-2014, 05:33 PM   #37
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WOW...you get my award for due diligence!

I think those relays are confusing especially if they have "dirty" contacts.
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Old 07-09-2014, 06:50 PM   #38
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This one pulls in once in a while. I ordered the replacement today and look forward to installing it next week when it arrives.

Thanks all for your input on this problem. Now on to getting the awning open.
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Old 07-09-2014, 08:40 PM   #39
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I found a temporary fix for the engine starting. Since the chassis battery isolation relay is not closing, either from the switch or by jumping 12VDC to terminal #1 and #2 on P2 on the circuit board, no power is connected to terminal P13 on the BCC. This is required to power up the ignition and allow the engine to start.

I placed a jumper from the battery chassis battery terminal on the BCC to terminal P13 on the BCC. The engine cranked right up and started.

As an experiment I pulled off my jumper while the engine was running, the engine died. This is part of a recall on certain manufactures motor homes.

This could be a problem if you are driving down the road and the isolation relay switches over. The engine would die while driving down the road.

I am going to jumper power from the chassis battery terminal on the BCC and order an replacement isolation relay to replace the defective one.
golfpgb, what you did was a common circumvention for bypassing a failing "Disconnect relay/solenoid", but you are probably confusing some folks by referring to it as the battery isolator, which is a totally different relay/solenoid with a totally different purpose.

The only consequence of a failing isolation relay/solenoid, while raveling down the road would be that the house batteries would NOT be charging from the alternator.

A failing chassis battery disconnect solenoid, could, as you say, affect the ignition circuits and kill the engine.
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Old 07-10-2014, 08:11 AM   #40
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Ole Bounder - You are correct as it is the battery disconnect relay that I will replace.

Without the jumper in place the engine will not turn over.

It seems odd that the engine would shut down when I remove the jumper.

The tech with RV Products thought this was not correct. What I have now is a motor home that will start as expected. If I remove the jumper the engine will shut down.
Once I replace the battery disconnect relay I will try my experiment again to see if the engine will run without the jumper.

Once I replace the relay I will also try to disconnect the battery relay from the switch above the door while the engine is running to see if it kills the engine.
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Old 07-10-2014, 07:39 PM   #41
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Ole Bounder - You are correct as it is the battery disconnect relay that I will replace.

Without the jumper in place the engine will not turn over.

It seems odd that the engine would shut down when I remove the jumper.

The tech with RV Products thought this was not correct. What I have now is a motor home that will start as expected. If I remove the jumper the engine will shut down.
Once I replace the battery disconnect relay I will try my experiment again to see if the engine will run without the jumper.

Once I replace the relay I will also try to disconnect the battery relay from the switch above the door while the engine is running to see if it kills the engine.
Remove the jumper before you replace the solenoid. It won't test correctly (using the test procedures) with the jumper installed.

Assuming it does test correctly, disconnecting the switch from the solenoid, once it's activated won't kill the engine, because the solenoid will stay mechanically latched until electrically switched to the other mode.

If you will look at the very last page of the document that I gave you, you will see that the whole purpose of the solenoid is to apply (or remove) chassis battery voltage to P-13. The ignition voltage is routed through a relay on the board controlled by voltage from P-13.
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Old 07-11-2014, 12:57 PM   #42
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Another good point. There could also be a bad relay on the circuit board.
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