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Old 08-24-2019, 08:28 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by richard5933 View Post
Running a gas/electric fridge on 12v will certainly run down your batteries quickly if the propane side of the fridge is not working. Without the gas burner going, you're asking the 12v battery to supply the heat inside the fridge so it can make cold, and it takes a lot of 12v juice to accomplish this.

Either your LP is not turned on or something is wrong with your fridge if it's not switching over to LP. Check your settings, and then check to see if the LP side of the fridge is working.
The fridge doesn't run on 12 volts, only the control does. Very little current draw and should last for days.
The fridge is running on gas.
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Old 08-24-2019, 08:56 AM   #16
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All have given you top notch advice for trouble shooting your electrical problem(s). One basic glaring thing overlooked is the size of your battery bank. IMHO, two group 24 batteries is a bit small for your size coach. I would seriously consider going to dual 6v golf cart batteries. I think this would solve the majority of your capacity problems. Keep us informed as to your progress.
Good luck.
Cheers
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Old 08-24-2019, 09:59 AM   #17
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I have a 2018 Baystar Sport 3307

If I turn the battery switch off, the batteries will stay charged enough for 3 or 4 days.

If I turn everything off except the Norcold double door frig gas/electric, the batteries donít last a night.

Is there really that much drain with just the frig?

Or do I need to check something else thatís on that Iím not aware of?

Inverter is off, lights, propane hot water heater and all fans are off...furnace is off....nothing is plugged in to charge like phones, etc. The batteries are a year old.

Thank you!
Please come back and give us a progress report so we know if we have helped you.
Lynn
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Old 08-24-2019, 10:52 AM   #18
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The fridge doesn't run on 12 volts, only the control does. Very little current draw and should last for days.
The fridge is running on gas.

That was true on every rig I've owned until the current one that has a Norcold PolarMax 18cf unit. It's a power hog on DC power, actually drawing approx 3.5 amps off the batteries depending what it's doing. They have built in fans in the freezer and and main refrigerator compartment that run pretty much all the time when it's hot outside. They also have built in fans for air circulation in the rear, plus they don't have any means to turn off the dew control. Unfortunately, they drink propane pretty heavily too, and pull 600 watts should you run them on AC power which is significant if you're paying elec separate. They're real pigs compared to previous units I've owned.



As for the troubleshooting of this unit, this is one of those areas where a battery monitor of some sort is really useful, and might be worth installing for you. This will enable you to have a better idea of whether or not you're actually getting the batteries fully charged, and figuring out what you're using power wise. They're of great help in tracking down assorted power drains, which just seem to pop up from time to time.
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Old 08-24-2019, 10:58 AM   #19
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That was true on every rig I've owned until the current one that has a Norcold PolarMax 18cf unit. It's a power hog on DC power, actually drawing approx 3.5 amps off the batteries depending what it's doing. They have built in fans in the freezer and and main refrigerator compartment that run pretty much all the time when it's hot outside. They also have built in fans for air circulation in the rear, plus they don't have any means to turn off the dew control. Unfortunately, they drink propane pretty heavily too, and pull 600 watts should you run them on AC power which is significant if you're paying elec separate. They're real pigs compared to previous units I've owned.



As for the troubleshooting of this unit, this is one of those areas where a battery monitor of some sort is really useful, and might be worth installing for you. This will enable you to have a better idea of whether or not you're actually getting the batteries fully charged, and figuring out what you're using power wise. They're of great help in tracking down assorted power drains, which just seem to pop up from time to time.
OK, 3.5 amp for 1 hour is 3.5 AH.

If the fridge is on all night, lets say 12 hours, That's 42 AH. That's not enough AH to kill 2 gp24 batteries overnight.

There are bad batteries or something else running.
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Old 08-24-2019, 12:43 PM   #20
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Maybe I'm confused here. Isn't the OP referring to the coach (house) batteries?
Lynn
Not confused just not familiar perhaps with the BSS battery setup. On my 2016 all batteries are in the engine area. Raise the hood and the coach batteries are just to the left of center. The chassis battery is a little above them.
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Old 08-24-2019, 01:38 PM   #21
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The fridge doesn't run on 12 volts, only the control does. Very little current draw and should last for days.
The fridge is running on gas.

Where did you see the OP say this? There are 3-way Norcold units out there.
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Old 08-24-2019, 02:06 PM   #22
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Did he say 3 way ? I read Gas/Electric.
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Where did you see the OP say this? There are 3-way Norcold units out there.
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Old 08-24-2019, 02:10 PM   #23
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Did he say 3 way ? I read Gas/Electric.
Correct - both a 2-way and a 3-way are gas/electric.

This is why I asked if you saw somewhere that the OP listed one or the other. We're both making an assumption - you that it's a 2-way and me that it's a 3-way. Neither of us will know until we know.
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Old 08-24-2019, 02:17 PM   #24
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Not confused just not familiar perhaps with the BSS battery setup. On my 2016 all batteries are in the engine area. Raise the hood and the coach batteries are just to the left of center. The chassis battery is a little above them.
Thank you for that. You unconfused me.
Lynn
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Old 08-24-2019, 11:08 PM   #25
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Iím back :-)

First, thank you. This is a lot to check out. Iím on the road so will get into this when I get home next week.

Frig is a 1210IMP Norcold

It was running on propane when I did this. It switches automatically when I unplug from shore power. I definitely hear the fire going when I unplug. (Maybe the automatic switching eats power?)

New batteries did not change results, though my experience is that new does not necessarily mean good.

I agree that these batteries are not true deep cycle though they say that. I would have room for two 6 volts in the rack. Maybe that would be better than the two 12 volt group 24ís..?.

I will enjoy trying all the ideas when I get home and around more tools. Iím a little hesitant to mess with things while on the road....

Iím pretty sure, knowing me, Iím probably overlooking something simple! I hope so anyway...

Thank you all!
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:27 AM   #26
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https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/...xoCSzYQAvD_BwE

From the above description the fridge is 2 way powered. 110V. or propane.
Thank you to OP for getting back to us.
When you get back and settled in you could shut the fridge down entirely and see how long the batteries stay charged. This would either confirm or eliminate the fridge as your problem.
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:58 AM   #27
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From what I see on the Norcold site your fridge can draw up to 5.3 amps from the 12v system. That's quite a bit, especially considering that your two group 24 batteries probably have about 200 amps total between them (more or less depending on brand). The Norcold manual shows that there are DC powered heat strips to prevent condensation on the center wall of the fridge, and I'd guess that a lot of juice gets used here.
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Old 08-25-2019, 06:22 AM   #28
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From what I see on the Norcold site your fridge can draw up to 5.3 amps from the 12v system. That's quite a bit, especially considering that your two group 24 batteries probably have about 200 amps total between them (more or less depending on brand). The Norcold manual shows that there are DC powered heat strips to prevent condensation on the center wall of the fridge, and I'd guess that a lot of juice gets used here.
Wow! I wonder if that feature can be turned off temporarily? Iíll try to research that.
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