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Old 07-28-2011, 05:42 PM   #15
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Hi , new to forum. I had the same problem with my HR and it was the solinoid that was bad. The switch inside the coach would shut the power of to the coach but it wouldn't come back on. Sometimes clicking the switch a few times you could hear it clicking in the rear electrical compartment, and after a few times it would work again. I replaced the solinoid and it now works fine. Hope that helps.

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Old 07-30-2011, 01:06 PM   #16
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I brought the coach home and plugged in to 110v. Everything works just fine. Disconnected the 110v, and now the starting batteries are showing 11.65v. I have a headache.

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Old 07-31-2011, 03:05 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by JPMaly View Post
I brought the coach home and plugged in to 110v. Everything works just fine. Disconnected the 110v, and now the starting batteries are showing 11.65v. I have a headache.

If you had 13.5 volts or more across those batteries while connected to 110 volts and they go to 11.65 within a minute or two without any loads then your batteries are toast. Simple and no headache. Take those out and protect the + positive lead from shorting to chassis.

This is a no brainer. Sorry, no offense. Just 40 yrs of experience.

Oh, did I say, Replace those/that battery. ????
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Old 07-31-2011, 05:30 AM   #18
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Its the starting battery OP is talking about the dealer needs to give him a new fully charged starting battery.
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Old 07-31-2011, 12:31 PM   #19
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Let me clarify. Voltage at soleniod was 6.65. Steps, slides, jacks would not work. Plugged into 110v, about 20 seconds later, out come the steps and I went inside and the slides and jacks worked just fine. I disconnected the 110v about an hour later, 11.65 at the solenoid, 12.75 at the battery.It is either the solenoid or the big boy relay, and I'm not sure how to test.
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Old 08-01-2011, 01:33 PM   #20
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JM2c worth, I would be worried about a 1.1v power drop in the line from the battery bank to the solinoid too. Do you have known good grounds for your test equipment ? Can you access and test the resistance from the ground stud ; shown in the picture ;to the frame ? Can you test the resistance in the cable from the power stud ;pictured; to the solinoid ? If you have 11.65 at the solinoid is it the some on both power and load sides ? That reading will tell you if there are internal issues, should be 100% the same. Sounds like the charger is warming up a connection some where, and as it cools the resistance comes back. Also it may be worth the time to remove the battery interconnect cables; when disconnected from shore power; and after sitting overnight, test each battery voltage, should be 6.2-6.5 each. Just because a battery is new doesn't mean it's good.
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Old 08-04-2011, 06:06 PM   #21
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I got it fixed. Seems the cicuit board in the battery management box was faulty. It was worked on by someone who spliced some of the wires together. I think your getting the drift now. Circuit board was discontinued, so hence the splices. Splices was the cause for the misread on the volt meter ( wires were transposed). So all is good. A complete new battery management box with ciruit board, new solenoid and big boy relay, and the disconnect switch in front is now working too. Speaking of working, I'll need to as well, $1164 repair bill. But I know it was done right. Thanks to all that replied, Jerry

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