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Old 09-07-2013, 06:03 PM   #15
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I described the order of the wires in the last post. The one on the right goes to the house battery. Left side : top one goes to right side of the disconnect relay, bottom one goes to the starter. On the left side of the disconnect the cable goes to the chassis battery.
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Old 09-07-2013, 06:05 PM   #16
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Old 09-07-2013, 07:30 PM   #17
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The relay you are describing is the isolator relay. It is turned on and off by the BIRD or IRD to charge the chassis battery with the convertor when plugged in and to charge the coach battery from the alternator when the engine is running. It also is closed by the boost switch to combine the batteries to help jump start the chassis battery if it won't start the engine. You can get a new model BIRD for about $65.00. If you have the relay it is easy to install. I'll get you a link.
$61.95

Bi-Directional Isolator Relay Delay by INTELLITEC
Intellites Bi-Directional Isolator Relay Delay offers a new approach to charging batteries in an RV application. Unlike prior systems that only allowed charging the RV battery from the engines alternator, the Bi-Directional Isolator Relay Delay charges both batteries when either one is being charged. When the coach is being driven, both batteries will be charged from the engine’s alternator. When the coach is plugged into shore power, both batteries will be charged from the converter. If neither battery is being charged, the batteries are fully isolated. The controller also senses heavy loads on either battery to prevent the wrong battery from being inadvertently discharged.
It operates by sensing the voltage on both batteries. When either of these volts exceeds 13.3 volts for approximately 12 seconds, which happens when either battery is being charged, the control will close the isolator solenoid, connecting the two batteries together, charging them both. (Normal charging voltages are from approximately 13.8 to 14.4 volts.)
After the solenoid has been closed, the system continues to sense the voltage. If the ignition switch is off and the battery voltage drops below 12.8 volts for approximately 5 seconds, which might occur when the converter is heavily loaded, the solenoid is opened to prevent the chassis battery from being discharged by the coach loads. When the voltage goes above 13.3 volts again for approximately 5 seconds, the solenoid closes again.
If the ignition switch is on, the control allows the voltage to drop below 12.0 volts for approximately 5 seconds, before the solenoid is opened to insure the alternators full output is available for important chassis functions. When the voltage goes above 13.3 volts again for approximately 5 seconds, the solenoid will close.
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Old 09-07-2013, 07:41 PM   #18
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Sorry
You were posting the same time I was.
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Old 09-07-2013, 07:52 PM   #19
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I guess the question is where the small wires go. One should be ground. Where does the other go. (Probably the red one) Or what powers the small wire to close the relay.
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Old 09-07-2013, 08:00 PM   #20
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Not too sure on that, haven't looked that far into it
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Old 09-07-2013, 08:04 PM   #21
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I think I'm inclined to believe that they are both the original wires on the original solenoid , my question is wonder what the tech did with the wires that went to the rectangular brown box (BIRD) that used to be in there next to the solenoid
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Old 09-07-2013, 08:43 PM   #22
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Try to figure where the small wires go or what powers the relay. It may be just the boost switch. If so, it is just a manual momentary system now. Not clear to me what the second (white) latching relay does. Do you know ?
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Old 09-07-2013, 08:53 PM   #23
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You speak of the second relay, where? The first pic I posted was of the continuous duty solenoid that supposedly determines which battery needs charged. So says the tech that rewired everything
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Old 09-08-2013, 06:52 AM   #24
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Just curious. In post 16 you show the latching relay (black) that disconnects the coach battery from the coach. Under it is a white one. I just wondered what the white one does.
It seems the isolator relay would do what it is intended to do. The question is what tells it when to be closed (batteries connected together) or open (batteries isolated). The BIRD would normally make these decisions based on ignition, and coach battery voltage inputs. The BIRD then puts 12V to one of the small terminals while the other is grounded. If the BIRD is removed, when is the relay picked (powered) and why.
If you have a test light or VOM determine which wire is ground and then under what conditions is there 12V on the other wire. It should be powered by the emergency ( momentary) switch for instance.
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Old 09-08-2013, 07:21 AM   #25
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My bad, the bottom white one you speak of is the disconnect for the house battery. I am to pick up the new alternator at noon today and then get it installed, I will update voltages after that.
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Old 09-08-2013, 07:22 AM   #26
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The black one is the chassis battery disconnect (starting battery) This is the one pictured in the post
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Old 09-08-2013, 07:51 AM   #27
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Thanks.
I still think your Alternator is OK.
Good luck. These problems can be very frustrating.
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:02 AM   #28
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Even though it only measures 12.09 volts and failed the test three times? Not arguing, just curious
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