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Old 09-08-2013, 08:28 AM   #29
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Brad:
I am sorry. I guess I am posting in too many threads at the same. I agree with the alternator diagnosis. The only other thing would be an extremely loose belt. But with todays serpentine belts, that's not likely.
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:38 AM   #30
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Haha! I was lurking around a bit ago and seen you in a few places. It seems your are the electrical guru. Just trying to broaden my education on these things!!
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Old 09-08-2013, 09:04 AM   #31
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I jump in where I can. We all learn from each other. There is someone on this forum with expertise in any area.
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Old 09-08-2013, 09:12 AM   #32
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Quote: I have since put in a new chassis battery, but here is the kicker... When sitting with both the disconnects on I get 12.49 volts at the chassis battery and 12.80 volts at the house battery. When running the chassis goes down to 12.17 and the house goes up to 13 and some change. Shut it down and the chassis starts to back up. I have only 12.09 coming out of the back of the alternator. For what its worth... the coach caught on fire a couple years ago. Edmunsons Rv in Edinburg, Indiana re-wired all the wires under the dash

I bet they put the charge line from the alternator on the wrong side of the solenoid so it charges the coach batteries versus the engine battery,

And the second part of the story is the Relay/Solenoid is bad. Here is why it is bad. The difference in voltage (assuming they or it is energized), is about 1/2 of a volt. The contacts are contaminated or arced.

If the alternator was bad how is it possible for the voltage to get to 13+ on the coach batteries.

The reason the voltage starts coming back up when shut off is the load has been removed and batteries tend to raise in voltage when loads are removed. That is the reason for a "load test".
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Old 09-08-2013, 12:37 PM   #33
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12.09 Volts at the alternator with the engine running sounds like battery voltage. Charging voltage should be 13.5-15V no matter what battery it is hooked to. 13V on the coach batteries if plugged in or recently plugged in would be understandable.
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Old 09-08-2013, 01:06 PM   #34
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I checked the voltage right at the terminal coming out of the alternator...12.09
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Old 09-08-2013, 02:45 PM   #35
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That wire should go to the chassis battery unless they put in a diode type isolator to replace the BIRD. I would hope not. Anyway the big wire from the alternator to the battery should have battery voltage when the engine is not running. When it is running it should have 13.5-15 volts. Charging voltage. If the voltage stays the same when off and running, the alternator is not putting out. If the alternator has a plug with 2 smaller wires one of them should have 12V with the ignition on. These are usually not a problem, but could be.
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Old 09-08-2013, 04:27 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bcollier9253 View Post
You speak of the second relay, where? The first pic I posted was of the continuous duty solenoid that supposedly determines which battery needs charged. So says the tech that rewired everything
That isolator solenoid is, in deed, the solenoid that needs to close to charge the house batteries from the alternator (along with the chassis battery), but it takes the signal from the Relay Delay module to trigger it. Yours seems to be missing. See this photo;

The info in the photo is actually from a 1989 Bounder. The '89 did not have disconnect switches, but this part of the system was the same. In '90 they added the disconnect switches, and in '92 they went to the RV-Custom Products BCC box, and put all the charging circuitry and solenoids in it.

If the tech who re-wired your unit added a BCC (it doesn't appear that he did) then he would have used it to provide the relay delay function.

As you may have noticed, I do not call it a BIRD, because in that vintage rig it did not have the Bi-Directional charge function. The ability of the circuitry to also charge the chassis battery from your house converter (Bi-directional charging) was added on a much later release.

If needed, you probably won't find the original Relay Delay module available anywhere. If you determine that this function no longer exists on your rig, a currently available Intellitec BIRD would be an appropriate and adequate install option.

In defense of the Tech who did your re-wiring, it's always difficult to restore areas where the determination of what was provided by the chassis manufacturer and what was added by the coach builder is not obvious. This is definitely one of those areas.

Requesting the build electrical diagrams from Fleetwood Customer Service would be a great help to you. Provide them with your VIN, FIN, make and model info and they will e-mail you more info than you can absorb. Good Luck.

Let me know if I can be of further assistance.
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Old 09-08-2013, 05:13 PM   #37
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Thant you to all who replied, it has truly helped my understanding as to what does what, not 100% but a lot more than before. I installed the new alternator and everything seems to be charging as needed. I am sure the tech did everything as he supposed to its just my lack of understanding the system. But like I say, everything seems fine now so I'm a happy camper. Thanks again for all of y'all's inputs!!
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Old 09-09-2013, 07:39 AM   #38
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Brad
Thanks for the follow up. All too often we never hear about the final fix.
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:01 AM   #39
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Your are quite welcome. Thank you for your inputs as well. There was a couple of other issues that I didn't mention to avoid furthering the confusion. First one being the wipers would come on by themselves at any given time, only with the ignition on though. Secondly, the steps would extend and retract without the switch being turned on. They would do this by turning either on or off either disconnect switch above the door. I found a loose connection on one of the door magnet wires that was the culprit. So between the new alternator and fixing that wire steps and wipers are working correctly. Is it a coincidence? Who knows...lol!
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:50 AM   #40
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Glad the new alternator helped.

However, you still have not solved the "different voltage" on each side of the solenoid you mentioned. You may still have an issue or two.

Disconnect one of the small control wires of the solenoid and see which side gets the Alternator charging voltage. Then follow that wire to the battery bank to make sure it is on the engine battery bank.

As a preventative measure replacing that solenoid will assure you it won't connect on a bad spot on the contacts when you really need it to work properly. Those solenoids can come apart and be overhauled to save as a spare or reuse.
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:57 AM   #41
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Loose connections and low voltage can give some goofy symptoms. Of course the step will go in and out with the ignition even when the switch is turned off. Also get some spray grease (waterproof) and get down and lube all the pivots and anything that moves on the step. Just PM.
Don't know about the wipers. If is OK now, stop fixing it. :>)
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Old 09-09-2013, 11:25 AM   #42
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Thought I would mention that the latching relays can be opened and the contacts cleaned.
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