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Old 08-06-2015, 07:27 AM   #15
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I use PRI-D in MH, F250 and tractor just to be on the safe side. Most of my equipment is older and needs the extra lubrication. Been using it for several years and am happy with it. Have run 100% Bio but the source moved and just too far to drive in insane traffic. Besides; the Bio doesn't get as good mileage as straight diesel. Only you can decide after investigation.
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Old 08-06-2015, 08:54 AM   #16
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I use a biocide (aka algaecide) when the coach sits unused during the winter to prevent algae growth in the Florida humidity. And full fuel tank to avoid condensation too. Other than that, no additives at all.

Quote:
Here is what Cummins says. They have six kinds they will sell you.
Just because a Cummins subsidiary sells it does not mean you need it in your RV. Cummins Engine does not recommend any additive unless substandard fuel is being used. All on-road diesel fuel produced in the USA meets the ASTM D975 diesel fuel standard and requires no additional "lubricity" additives or anything else.

What Cummins says you need is summarized in this email from Cummins Customer Service:
Quote:
All diesel fuel sold in the U.S. since January 2005 must meet a fuel lubricity specification established by the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). Any fuel lubricity additives necessary to meet this new specification are added by the fuel suppliers before the fuel hits the pumps. So you do not need to add fuel lubricity additives to your highway diesel fuel.
The fuel lubricity test cited in a previous message compared various additives used with raw ULSD diesel, i.e. before the refinery adds their own additive package. Raw ULSD does not meet ASTM D975 and needs an assist, but that's not the fuel you get at the pump.

As a further note, today's biodiesel blends have improved lubricity vs raw petrodiesel too. Biodiesel has better lubricity than petrodiesel to begin with and must retail diesel pumps are dispensing a B10 or B20 blend these days.
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:44 AM   #17
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I agree with Gary. As I said before, the NEED for additives to fuel is more of a palliative for the owner than the vehicle. You spend money and think you're doing the engine good. STP convinced everyone back in the '60's with the demonstration that it was so slippery you couldn't hold a screwdriver by the shaft, so people poured it in their engines sure it would reduce friction.

If you want to put in an additive to retard bacteria or fungus growth while in storage, go for it. Just don't call it algae or feel the need to add biocides to the tank while actively using the fuel.
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:52 AM   #18
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Additives are not needed for diesel fuel but there is a issue with diesel fuel that needs to be considered. Diesel fuel is blended differently in summer than it is in the winter. Summer diesel has a gell temperature higher than winter blend. This can cause issues if you fill your rig in the summer and park it until a cold winter. If it has been very cold for some time your fuel may have gelled if you have a tank full of summer blend. You will possibly notice a lower fuel mileage using winter blend also.

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Old 08-06-2015, 10:08 AM   #19
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I don't think I understand what makes for an environment that causes algae growth,,,,,, but I have had that luck twice... and the sun can't be in play as both tanks it occurred in don't see the sun.

#1, bought a trackloader that sat for about 11 months. Got it running and shortly after found algae about and 1" deep in the bottom. It clogged the fuel system/filter and once cleaned up all was good.

#2, recently had a tank issue with my 99 Superduty, during the course of dealing with it I found some algae in there. Although it had not impacted operations, there was some

My evidence, the sun is not in play,,,,, but it certainly is hot and humid where I live. I don't buy junk fuel.

I still work, therefore get occasional use from my DP MH, I add to the fuel to prevent algae.

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Old 08-06-2015, 01:28 PM   #20
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In 8.5 years and 44,000 miles, I've not felt the need to add any diesel additives to the MH tank. For routine operation, my Cummins manual does not recommend adding anything to fuel. While there may be some benefit so a biocide during long term storage, and I do store it over the winter - but hot and humid doesn't really apply when under a pile of snow, and I store it with a full tank to minimize moisture absorption through the air.

The only diesel additive I personally use is an anti-gelling agent, and I only use that in my tractor during the winter. I need it to be able to start in sub-zero weather when it's time to plow snow.

Oldtrh: whether you will need a biocide depends on whether you have periods of long term storage, and on how hot and humid it gets in your area when it is being stored.
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Old 08-06-2015, 02:32 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
But if you remember the 1970's there were folks selling additives to gasoline to make up for the no lead gas being sold. We were told our cars would destroy valves and such without the lead in the fuel. It made people feel better spending money to improve their fuel, but did little good really for the health of their engine or fuel.

Actually, it WAS beneficial for engines without hardened valve seats. Today cars can run on no lead fuel because the engines are made differently.
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Old 08-06-2015, 02:43 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by pasdad1 View Post
Actually, it WAS beneficial for engines without hardened valve seats. Today cars can run on no lead fuel because the engines are made differently.
But I bet the cost of the additives far outweighed the benefits. Some folks dump a can or bottle in their engine at every fill up. Unless you drove those leaded fuel engines really hard and abused them, I don't think the additives did much to preserve the valve seats or guides.
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Old 08-06-2015, 02:50 PM   #23
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I use service power in my trucks hauling with v44 Bosch fuel pumps and seems to have more power and does get better MPG with it.. haven't lost a pump in 800,000 miles and I know lots that didn't make 100,000 miles . I don't use it all the time but if I know I'll be hauling it will be in it... It is always in my motor home .
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Old 08-06-2015, 04:24 PM   #24
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Many of you keep saying that Cummins doesn't recommend additives, right after the post above yours provides the LINK to Cummins new position, that now recommends additives to compensate for poor fuel.


IF, every gallon of diesel fuel you bought met the government standards for lubricity, you would not need additives! But that's not the case. When tested, the fuel around the country doesn't ALWAYS meet the government standards for lubricity.


Will your coach quit or be ruined if you don't use additives.....no, but many of us feel we get a slight advantage and it's cheap engine insurance.
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Old 08-06-2015, 04:30 PM   #25
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Our ISX has a DPF on it, there is no way I'm going to jeopardize it by adding anything to the fuel. Last one added $2,500 to the repair bill just for the part!
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Old 08-06-2015, 05:44 PM   #26
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Thanks for all the info. Not sure that I need to add anything at this time. I will make sure to keep the tank full during the winter months and I plan to drive the unit at least once every two weeks or so.
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Old 08-06-2015, 05:56 PM   #27
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Three different units with diesel, never used additives and had/have no problems.
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Old 08-07-2015, 09:11 AM   #28
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Anecdotal reports of 50 years use of diesel fuel aren't usable, since the introduction of ULSD.

Quote:
As a further note, today's biodiesel blends have improved lubricity vs raw petrodiesel too. Biodiesel has better lubricity than petrodiesel to begin with and must retail diesel pumps are dispensing a B10 or B20 blend these days.
Biodiesel oxidizes, that is gets old, and brings not only wear but filtration problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post

IF, every gallon of diesel fuel you bought met the government standards for lubricity, you would not need additives! But that's not the case. When tested, the fuel around the country doesn't ALWAYS meet the government standards for lubricity.


Will your coach quit or be ruined if you don't use additives.....no, but many of us feel we get a slight advantage and it's cheap engine insurance.
This sums it up. If you have an older fuel system designed for high sulfur diesel, like I do, and adding lubricity at modest cost defers a $6k fuel pump a few years, what is the down side?
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