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07-14-2015, 11:08 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 251
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1" plywood cut in 12x12 square. Glue two together with Liquid Nails. Bore holes about 1/2" in each corner. Use awning rod to position. Have worked great for three years on all types of surfaces.
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2011 Monaco Knight 36', MaxForce 10, 350HP, 1150 lbs. Torque.
2008 Saturn Vue Toad, SMI Duo Brake, Roadmaster Sterling Tow Bar
San Antonio, TX Home Port
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07-14-2015, 11:18 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,569
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We're pretty heavy (14,600 on front axel no fuel) and we've tried oak,microlamm, 3layers of plywood but won't last. Summit Stainless sells 18x18 pads that are indestructible so far. And we've used them on soft wet ground for weeks!
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American Tradition 42R-Cadillac SRX Blue Ox Koni 5050XL MCD Scangauge D Samsung rf197
Fulltime since 2012
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07-14-2015, 11:56 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: DFW
Posts: 1,473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostdog
2x8 pressure treated
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Yep, went up to Home Depot and had them cut a 2x12 in to 4 pieces when we got caught in a sudden monsoon. Never found the need to use anything else.
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07-14-2015, 02:09 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 84
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Built my own also, only difference i used 5/8 plywood, cut 16 inch square, glued and screwed pairs, cut the corners off (length of cut 4 inches), drilled a couple of 1/2 inch holes on one edge 6 inches c/c and installed a loop of rope. The loops of rope are very helpful when removing pads from under rig. I think the 1.5 inch pads would be great for the heavier coaches but the 1.25 inch works fine on my rig and are a bit lighter-great when age creeps on.
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07-14-2015, 02:44 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Trois-Rivieres, QC, Canada
Posts: 414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wigginsjsr
1" plywood cut in 12x12 square. Glue two together with Liquid Nails. Bore holes about 1/2" in each corner. Use awning rod to position. Have worked great for three years on all types of surfaces.
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I have 6 of them very similar by using 4 pieces of 3/4" plywood which gives me 2" thickness that I glueded and screwded together. I made them in 2001 and still using them in 2015.
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07-14-2015, 02:49 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joemcgin
Bought a sheet of 3/4" plywood from Home Depot and had them cut it into 2x2' squares. Now have 8 and put them under the Jacks when we go out on the beach. Works great.
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Wow!! Your Class A looks like she's gonna sink in that sand! Guess the pads worked well enough... but how did you pull out of that when it was time to go home? I'd be too afraid of getting stuck to put my rig on the beach, though I have seen it done before in person.
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2013 Fleetwood Discovery 40G, Cummins ISL,Freightliner Chassis, Allison 3000.
2017 Ford F150 Lariat toad w/
Blue Ox Aventa tow bar and M&G Braking System
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07-14-2015, 03:57 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: ct
Posts: 252
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I have bought those pastic pads. They are ok if put on 2x8 or 2x10 wood
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Ed and Marina Marasi, Suffield Ct, 32' Tiffen allegro 1999
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07-14-2015, 05:49 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Vista, CA
Posts: 127
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Another vote for hosspads. Replaced my old muddy 2x8's.
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TXwannabe
2005 Tiffin Phaeton 40QDH/2012 CR-V EX-L Toad
Invisibrake/Roadmaster Falcon All-Terrain Tow Bar
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07-21-2015, 10:21 AM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 58
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Utility Blocks
Quote:
Originally Posted by vettenuts
I am using the "Quality Plastics Utility Block - Four Pack" that are recommended by RV Geeks. Very happy with the quality and the price. Have used on both soft and hard surfaces without any issues.
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For the past 1-1/2 yrs I've also use the Utility Blocks and love them!! I ended up purchasing 4 sets so I can level the wheels as well as protect the level jacks from extending too far. I've used them on concrete, asphalt, gravel and even sand. They work great and havent deformed at all.
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07-21-2015, 10:46 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NE Oklahoma
Posts: 569
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I never try to park or level on sand, so I'm not sure how my blocks work. They work great for everything else and they are cheap.
These blocks have 3/4" plywood (which never cracks) top/bottom and 5/4 treated on the sides with and internal diagional brace. Everything is exterior glued and screwed together. The eye bolt on the side makes it easy to move/remove the blocks with an awing rod. I sized these so they would stack on top of each other 4 high in the basement storage.
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Rick and Lynda Smith
2020 JAYCO Eagle 30.5CKTS
2018 RAM 2500 4x4 Crew, 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel
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07-22-2015, 07:30 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 242
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Levelling Pads
I copied Vapor 3000. I really like the fact these pads reduce the jack extension on un-level surfaces. Like his, mine store neatly in a rear storage bay. I also use the pads in conjunction with ramps I made from treated 2 x 12's when I do maintenance under the coach.
WM
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Wimberleyman
2001 Cruisemaster/300 Cat
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07-23-2015, 08:16 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joemcgin
Bought a sheet of 3/4" plywood from Home Depot and had them cut it into 2x2' squares. Now have 8 and put them under the Jacks when we go out on the beach. Works great.
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We did something similar. The pads we normally use are made from treated plywood and only 12" square. Two pieces placed cross grained with glue and screws to hold them together. They have a hole drilled near one edge to put a poly rope through. The rope makes it easier to get them out from under the RV without having to get on your hands and knees. We've used them on 2 different RV's for 14 years.
Last year when we went to the Winnebago Grand National in Forest City IA we were advised to bring along pads that were double the surface area of the jack foot. The grounds had just been landscaped and they had been having heavy rains. We made pads the same size as Joemcgin. The only difference is that ours are permanently two sheets thick.
They did a good job of keeping the RV from sinking in, but for everyday use they are large and heavy. We use them when we know we'll be camping on wet or soft ground. Otherwise the old standby's stay in the coach and are used when we park on any unpaved surface.
Just a side note, the original pads were made for our 2001 Winnebago Adventurer 32V. They are now in service for our 2013 Adventurer 32H.
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Hikerdogs
2013 Adventurer 32H
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07-24-2015, 07:58 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Brooklyn MI
Posts: 376
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I use Fin form Plywood, its a 14 ply plywood, designed to go into the ground up to 20 deep
KC
__________________
2015 Thor Challenger 37KT
Trav'ler Direct TV dish, Progressive surge protected, Magna Shield covers, RV SnapPad, 5 star, and On the go Water softener.
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07-25-2015, 05:26 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,129
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PT 2x10 cut into about 12" lengths (one 8 footer gets you eight pieces.) I found that they eventually will crack under the load so I crossed them, screwed them together and put a small eye bolt in one side so I can pull them with my awning rod. Going on 7 years now. They just fit into my small 25" wide compartment.
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Ole and Anne Anderson, Highland, Michigan
'02 Adventurer 32V, Ford F-53, ours since 4/08,Hankooks, Konis, SeeLevel, CHF
'84 CJ-7 , 5.3 Chevy, 3" lift, 33's, Detroit Locker, Fiberglas tub, winch, hi-lift
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